Boxwood Blight Found in Georgia

Edited from an article by Jean L. Williams-Woodward, Extension Plant Pathologist. Read the entire article here.

Boxwood or Box Blight, caused by the fungus, Cylindrocladium pseudonaviculatum (syn. Cylindrocladium buxicola and Calonectria pseudonaviculata) has been confirmed in two residential landscapes in the Buckhead area of Atlanta.

The source of the introduction to one of the landscapes is unknown as new boxwood plants were not introduced into the landscape. The spores of the pathogen are very sticky and it is possible that the disease was introduced on worker’s tools or clothing. Plants within the second landscape were newly introduced from NC. Once introduced, the disease can be devastating to boxwood in landscapes and nurseries.

Boxwood Blight 2 JWW
Boxwood blight infected dwarf English boxwood in GA showing tan foliage and dieback. (Image by Jean Williams-Woodward)

Hosts: Dwarf English boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’) is highly susceptible and develops severe symptoms and rapid leaf drop. American or common boxwood (B. sempervirens) cultivars are also very susceptible. Cultivars of Littleleaf (Japanese) and Korean boxwood (B. microphylla and B. sinica, respectively) appear less susceptible because they don’t show severe symptoms and leaf drop, but they are still susceptible.

None of the commercial boxwood cultivars are immune to this disease. In fact, lesser susceptible (e.g. tolerant) cultivars may act as a ‘Trojan Horse’ introducing the disease into landscapes containing more susceptible cultivars.

The value of lesser susceptible cultivars is in the establishment of new boxwood hedges. If planting a new area, use a more tolerant cultivar to lessen your disease pressure in subsequent years. The disease also affects other plants within the Buxaceae family, including Pachysandra terminalis (ground spurge) and Sarcococca sp. (sweet box).

Boxwood blight JWW
Boxwood blight symptoms clockwise from upper left: Tan to gray leaf lesions with a darker purplish border on an English boxwood; Circular, tan spots with a brown border on upper leaves; Tan blighted leaves and bare stems on an infected plant; blackening of stems and browning foliage; and black stem lesions on bare branch tips. (Images by Jean Williams-Woodward)

Management: The best control is exclusion. Do not introduce the disease on infected plants or tools. Inspect all new boxwood plants for symptoms of the disease. Be sure to check the lower leaf canopy and interior stems. Keep new plants isolated and separate from existing boxwoods. Do not apply fungicides to plants in isolation that would mask symptom development. Monitor plants for at least four weeks prior to introducing them into existing plantings.

If Boxwood blight is detected, the infected plants and all fallen leaf debris needs to be bagged on-site and removed from the area to be buried in a landfill to prevent its spread. Transport plants in closed bags. Leaf litter blowing from open trucks could spread the disease to plantings along the roadway. Fallen leaf debris should be vacuumed and bagged, burned on-site or buried. Debris should not be composted. The fungus also produces microsclerotia (small clump of fungal hyphae) within roots and leaf debris of infected plants that allows the fungus to survive for years. Removal of existing garden soil and replacing with new soil is an option, but there is no guarantee that this will completely remove the pathogen.

Boxwood blight cannot be controlled with curative fungicide applications. Fungicides are only effective when applied preventively. Fungicide efficacy trials have shown that fungicides containing chlorothalonil (Daconil, Spectro, Concert II) and fludioxonil (Medallion, Palladium) provided the best control when applied preventively. To a lesser extent, fungicides containing azoxystrobin (Heritage), pyraclostrobin (Pageant), trifloxystrobin (Compass), and thiophanate methyl (Cleary 3336, OHP 6672) provided fair to good preventative control. Most are not labeled for use on either boxwood, Cylindrocladium or both; however, this is changing, so check labels. Remember, spraying plants after the disease is present will NOT control this disease.

Recommendations for Landscapers:

  • Inspect boxwoods on all properties. Look for symptomatic plants. As weather patterns become conducive (wet, humid, warm), disease symptoms may become noticeable and spread rapidly.
  • Submit suspect samples to the UGA Plant Disease Clinic in Athens through county extension offices for disease identification.
  • Train employees and clients on how to identify boxwood blight. Educate them on how easily the disease spreads.
  • Only purchase plants from nurseries that have a Boxwood Blight Compliance Agreement through their State Department of Agriculture. Many plants are brokered, so ask where plants were grown. Keep new plants in isolation and monitor for symptoms prior to installation.
  • Never install or prune or work in boxwoods when plants are wet.
  • Always visit non-infected landscape sites first. Move healthy to suspect diseased areas; never the other way around.
  • Disinfect pruners and other tools frequently within and between different blocks of plants within the same landscape, and especially when moving to different landscapes.
  • The best product is Lysol Concentrate Disinfectant (containing 5.5% O-benzyl-p-chlorophenol). Mix 2.5 Tbsp per gallon of water. This can be made and kept in spray bottles. Tools need to be wet for at least 10 seconds and allowed to dry to be effective.
  • A 10% bleach solution (1:9 part Clorox or 1:14 part Clorox Concentrate) for at least a 10 second soak can also be used, but this will oxidize tools. Soak and then let dry.
  • When leaving a site suspected or known to have boxwood blight, all tools, shoes, and clothing must be disinfected.
  • Get in the habit of wearing clean disposable booties or washing off debris and dirt entirely from soles of shoes between landscapes.
  • Changing and laundering clothes between sites would be ideal; however, it’s impractical. Wearing disposable paper pants is an option.

Find more information here

 

UGA Landscape Safety Training Program Moves Online

Safety pub 1Ellen Bauske, UGA Center for Urban Agriculture

Creating beautiful landscapes is rewarding work, but it can also be dangerous. Finding safety training that is easily accessible and takes into consideration language and literacy barriers can be challenging. New workers are hired during the peak season and safety training overlaps with the daily work load.

The Safety Training Program, housed at the University of Georgia Center for Urban Agriculture, is successful at overcoming many of these challenges. Over the past three years, 1,923 landscape workers have been trained and received a combined 7,867 contact hours of safety training. We greatly appreciate the industry and UAC support that has made this program successful.

Change is inevitable. The safety training moved online and Rolando Orellana, the program safety trainer, moved to a new position as the UGA Cooperative Extension Agent in Cobb County Cooperative Extension. He can be found in the Cobb County Extension office.

The Safety Makes Sense: Landscape Worker Safety Certificate Course is available at no charge online. With this tool, you can train on your time schedule, rainy day or any day. The training video (a compilation of the Safety Makes Sense series) can be viewed online. It can also be downloaded and saved for use when no Internet is available. The course study guide and supervisor’s key provide talking points and a quick review.

Upon successful completion of the evaluation (70% or better), workers are emailed Certificates of Completion. The publication “Safety Checklists for New Landscape Employees” is also available on www.caes.uga.edu/publications. Designed to assure and document safety training for new employees, these well-illustrated checklists are suitable for use with both English and Spanish speakers. They cover general safety precautions, equipment safety, mower safety and basic pesticide safety.

The bilingual safety manual, “Safety for Hispanic Landscape Workers,” is also available at www.caes.uga.edu/publications. Bound copies can be purchased at www.caes.uga.edu/publications/for_sale.cfm.

All center safety training resources and Hispanic worker resources are available on the Center Safety page..

The Landscape Safety Training Program is the result of the efforts of many people and organizations. The program was initiated in 2005 by faculty members of the Georgia’s Hispanic Specialists Group at UGA and housed in the Center for Urban Agriculture. It has benefited from the efforts and support of Cooperative Extension agents throughout the state, the UAC, business owners and UGA faculty from many departments. Much of this work was supported by a series of Susan Harwood Training Grants made available through the Occupational Safety and Health Administration.

An unusual lawn invader appears during wet weather

Slime mold 3 turf disease pubThis is a Slime Mold growing on turf.

This information is taken from the UGA publication, Turfgrass Diseases in Georgia: Identification and Control 

Slime molds are caused by the fungi Physarum spp. and Fuligo spp.

All turfgrasses are susceptible to slime molds

Slime mold turf disease pubSymptoms: Large numbers of pinhead-sized fruiting bodies may suddenly appear on grass blades and stems in circular to irregular patches 1-30 inches in diameter. Affected patches of grass do not normally die or turn yellow and signs of the fungi usually disappear within 1 to 2 weeks. These fungi normally reproduce in the same location each year. The fungi are not parasitic, but they may shade the individual grass leaves to the extent that leaves may be weakened by inefficient photosynthesis.

Conditions favoring Slime Molds: Slime molds are favored by cool temperatures and continuous high humidity. An abundance of thatch favors slime molds by providing food directly in the form of organic matter.

Management:

Remove slime mold by mowing.

Remove using a gardening tool or high pressure stream of water.

For more information on slime molds and other turf diseases, see Turfgrass Diseases in Georgia: Identification and Control 

 

Slime molds elsewhere:

Dog vomit slime mold, Sandra Jensen, Cornell University
Dog vomit slime mold, Sandra Jensen, Cornell University

Other slime molds form irregularly shaped ‘blobs’ that grow on mulch, turf or other areas with organic matter. Read more about these in the publication, The Truth about Slime Molds, Spanish Moss, Lichens and Mistletoe

 

Also find pictures of various slime molds here.

Goats and Sheep Battle Invasive Plants

The Athens-Clarke County Commission approved on June 3, 2014 a new law that will allow people inside the city limits to rent goats and sheep to help get rid of invasive plants on their property (info taken from the Center for Invasive Species blogspot). Read the following story to find out why.

The following article is by Merritt Melancon, news editor with the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences

Goats and sheep have a reputation for eating vegetation that most other grazing animals would not touch.

This trait makes them invaluable to people who need to raise livestock in tough climates, but it’s also made them popular for landowners who need to clear brush or invasive plants from overgrown parcels.

The nimble grazers can get into overgrown areas that even the most dedicated groundskeeper or gardener won’t chance. They’ve proven to be a low-impact, low-cost way to control invasive plants like privet, kudzu, honeysuckle and English ivy.

The practice of using sheep and goats to clear out unwanted brush is called targeted grazing, and many government agencies, municipalities and private landowners are using it to keep vacant lots, steep back yards, parks and right-of-ways clear of brush.

When is it time to bring in a herd?

Targeted grazing is a suitable option, whether a landowner is dealing with acres of stream bank, a detention pond or a small back yard, but it’s not meant to replace basic maintenance, said Brian Cash, owner of EWE-niversally Green sheep rental service in Dunwoody.

“We’re not a lawn mowing service,” Cash said. “We’ll do that, but we like to focus on overgrown yards and lots.”

Cash often works with new homeowners in and around downtown Atlanta who have purchased foreclosed homes with overgrown lawns and local government agencies needing to clear brush from public lands.

Sheep and goats are most useful when an area is so overgrown that no one else wants to clear it out. Even if its just a small yard, most homeowners, and many landscapers, don’t want to work in an area that’s choked with poison ivy, poison oak and briars, he said.

Sheep and goats are also useful in areas that are too steep or too wooded to use a tractor to clear out brush.

“If you can do it with a bush hog on a tractor, then that would be cheaper, but if you need a guy with a weed whacker out there, then I’m cheaper,” said herdswoman Jennif Chandler, of Shady Brook Farm in Colbert.

Chandler and her sheep have worked with the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences on the Athens campus to clear invasive plants including privet, kudzu and honeysuckle from along the bank of the Oconee River.

She also works with homeowners in the Athens area to clear Kudzu covered hills and backyards.

While goats and sheep are a surefire and efficient way to clear out a choked backyard or lot, there are a few things that homeowners should consider before buying a half-dozen goats or even hiring a service like Cash or Chandler’s.

They’ll eat everything

While herdsmen and women out on the West Coast are training goats and sheep to nibble around delicate plants like grape vines and other crops, targeted grazing isn’t a technique homeowners would want to try around their prize hydrangeas or a heirloom rose bush.

In fact, some ornamental plants are seriously toxic to sheep or goats. Examples include azaleas and Japanese yew.

“They’re not very discriminant,” said Sarah Workman, an Extension Agroforestry Specialist with the CAES. “If there’s something you don’t want them to eat, you need to protect it.”

While goats and sheep eat pretty much the same thing, sheep prefer broad-leaf weeds like ivy or kudzu, and goats seem to prefer woodier plants, Cash said.

Sheep usually can clear an area up to about a five-foot height, but goats can climb and take care of plants up to seven feet off the ground.

Because of their climbing ability, goats can take care of larger plants. However, that skill and natural curiosity, makes them more likely to escape and antagonize neighborhood dogs.

Cash usually sends a few goats along with his sheep herd to get the best of both worlds, but he’s careful to select his best-behaved goats.

Graze, wait and repeat

If a homeowner’s goal is to eradicate a specific invasive species, it may take repeated grazing to accomplish that goal, Workman said.

She and Chandler organized the first targeted grazing demonstration at UGA last year. The project, an effort to remove privet from a portion of the River Road area, is ongoing.”

These invasive plants are invasive because they are so persistent,” Workman said. “The idea is that the repeated introduction of the animals will deplete the root reserve of the (invasive) shrub.”

The shrubby stuff and woody vines are things that need repeated browsing,” Workman said. “And hopefully the more they’re eaten and knocked back, the less strength they have to regrow.”

Chandler’s sheep are scheduled to be back in action this summer to continue the eradication effort.

Managing the herd takes expertise

Herdsmen and women, like Cash and Chandler, have worked with their animals long enough to know how they’ll graze a specific area and how to meet homeowners’ goals for targeted grazing. Their customers get the benefit of that expertise when they rent their herds.

Another option is for a homeowner to purchase a few sheep or goats, but they need to be ready for the responsibility, said Will Getz, professor of animal science at Fort Valley State University’s Georgia Small Ruminant Research and Extension Center.

Zoning laws prohibit many suburban and urban homeowners from keeping any goats or sheep in their backyard. Additionally, suburban, urban and even rural landowners will face the challenge of keeping their herds contained and safe from neighborhood dogs or coyotes.

Moreover, there is the matter of food.

An acre of grass and brush can support about a half-dozen goats or sheep over the long-term, Getz said. If a landowner wants to load their land with more than six sheep or goats per acre, they’ll clear it out quickly.

“If you exceed that stocking intensity, then the animals are going to clear the area out more quickly,” Getz said. “But then you need to be prepared to sell them or otherwise get them off of your land when they’ve finished, either that or start buying feed.”

Homeowners interested it either renting or buying goats or sheep to clear their land should contact their local UGA or FVSU Cooperative Extension agent and the zoning or public development office in their county or city.

Unusual growths on the leaves of an oak tree

These are cynipid leaf galls on an oak tree leaf

To read more about these and other insect pests on trees, read the publication Forest Health Guide for Georgia.

Galls are abnormal vegetative growths on trees that result from the feeding and egg laying activities of various insects and mites. Chemical secretions from the adults while laying eggs as well as the saliva from the feeding larvae cause the plant to react abnormally.

The more common gall producers on trees are aphids, beetles, jumping plant lice, midges, mites and wasps. Each species causes a swelling of plant tissue that is characteristic on specific plant parts such as the stem, twig, leaf or petiole. Most often the gall is more readily identified than the gall producer. It is convenient to identify galls and their producers simply by noting where the gall is located and also the shape of the gall. Table 2 on page 43 of the Forest Health Guide for Georgia lists some of the more common trees that are frequently attacked by gall producers along with a description and location of the gall.

Generally galls are not life threatening to trees. Oftentimes the most drastic effects are premature leaf fall and dieback of several smaller branches.

On small trees, galls should be pruned and destroyed. Leaf and twig litter that is on the ground around the base of the tree should be raked and disposed of. A few of the common species are shown in the images included here.

For information on galls, see page 42 of the publication Forest Health Guide for Georgia. This publication is produced by the Georgia Forestry Commission.

Other galls include:

Galls on black cherry
Galls on black cherry, Andy Boone, South Carolina Forestry Commission, Bugwood.org

Can you identify and control this troublesome weed?

Info taken from the publication Virginia Buttonweed Identification and Control in Turfgrass by Patrick McCullough and Jialin Yu, UGA Department of Crop and Soil Sciences

Virginia buttonweed (Diodia virginiana L.) is a troublesome broadleaf weed in turfgrass throughout the southeastern United States. Virginia buttonweed is a deep-rooted perennial with prostrate or spreading branches. It usually proliferates in moist to wet areas and can tolerate mowing heights as low as one-half inch. The species is a member of the Rubiaceae family and is found from New Jersey, west to Missouri and south into the Gulf Coast states.

Virginia buttonweed leaves are slightly thickened, opposite without petioles and slightly rough along the margins (Picture 1). Leaves are green on the upper surface, light green on the lower surface and often have a mottled yellow mosaic appearance caused by a virus that commonly infects foliage (Picture 2). Branched stems are occasionally hairy (Picture 3) and reproduction occurs via seeds, roots or stem fragments. Flowers are white with four star-shaped petals, which sometimes have pink streaks in the center and two sepals. Fruit are green, elliptically shaped, hairy and ridged.

For info on managing this weed:

See entire publication

Or see sections of the publication on:

Georgia’s Open Burning Ban in Effect May 1 – Sept 30

Info taken from the the Georgia Forestry Commission website

When is the burning ban in effect?
The burning ban is in effect from May 1 through September 30 each year.

What counties are under the burning ban?
The following counties are under the burning ban:

Banks, Barrow, Bartow, Bibb, Butts, Carroll, Catoosa, Chattooga, Cherokee, Clarke, Clayton, Cobb, Columbia, Coweta, Crawford, Dawson, DeKalb, Douglas, Fayette, Floyd, Forsyth, Fulton, Gordon, Gwinnett, Hall, Haralson, Heard, Henry, Houston, Jackson, Jasper, Jones, Lamar, Lumpkin, Madison, Meriwether, Monroe, Morgan, Newton, Oconee, Paulding, Peach, Pickens, Pike, Polk, Putnam, Richmond, Rockdale, Spalding, Troup, Twiggs, Upson, Walker and Walton.

Who is responsible for the burning ban?
The open burning ban is under the jurisdiction of the Georgia Department of Natural Resources (DNR), Environmental Protection Division (EPD), Air Protection Branch.

Why is the burning ban needed?
The Georgia EPD imposes a ban on outdoor burning to comply with Federal Clean Air Regulations.  During the summer months in Georgia, the ozone in the air we breathe can reach unhealthy levels.  The Georgia EPD has identified open burning as a significant contributor of the pollutants that form ozone.  Consequently, open burning in metro Atlanta and larger counties must be restricted during the summer months.

How can the Georgia Forestry Commission (GFC) help me determine whether I can burn or not?
The Georgia Forestry Commission’s on-line burn permit system and 1-877-OK2-BURN phone system will inform by county whether or not you can burn or you can call your local GFC office.

Who can I contact for information? 
Georgia EPD Air Protection offices
Your local GFC office
Your local Fire Department

Other Resources
Open Burning Rules for Georgia – Environmental Protection Division (EPD), Georgia DNR
Clean Air Act – U.S. EPA
Office of Air and Radiation – U.S. EPA

See the original article here

Also see the GFC  Online Burn Permit System.

Identifying and Treating Winter Kill in Turf

Clint Waltz, UGA Extension Turf Specialist

Image - Winter kill in centipede taken from presentation by Clint Waltz, UGA Turfgrass Specialist
Image – Winter kill in centipede taken from presentation by Clint Waltz, UGA Turfgrass Specialist

We’ve received many questions regarding grass that has failed to green-up this spring.  With variations among four different warm-season species, multiple climatic conditions, and because of the wet conditions leading to a likelihood of disease, there is much to be said on the topic of “winter kill”.   In many incidents there are circumstances and extenuating factors that make a specific diagnosis difficult. If there were a year for winter kill, after the cold conditions this past winter and early spring, this would be the year for it.

Click here for a brief presentation about Winter Kill.

Dr. James McCurdy at Mississippi State has written a good blog on winter kill in his state, and over the past 30 to 45 days I’ve seen many of the same issues in Georgia so my comments would be consistent with his.

  • In many cases, bermudagrass has greened-up and is beginning to grow.  I’ve seen a few lawns and pictures of some bermudagrass that is still brown.  Patience may be the key with bermudagrass.  Soil temperatures have only been conducive for growth for about two weeks.  Remember bermudagrass has rhizomes, below ground stems, that were likely well insulated by soil.  Warmer temperatures and time will likely be suitable for bermudagrass recovery.  Check for extenuating factors like shade and ask questions about how long ice or snow remained on the lawn / grass.  I have seen some incidences where sledding occurred and the brown tracks are consistent with the path of wintertime fun.
  • Hybrid bermudagrass have recovered better than common-type (i.e. seeded) bermudagrasses.  The commons are recovering – all be it slowly.
  • Zoysiagrass have fared well but are slow to resume active growth.  See my comments for bermudagrass regarding soil temperatures and patience.  Remember, zoysiagrass is inherently a slow growing species, so recovery is going to take time.  It too has rhizomes and with time will regenerate itself as environmental conditions become favorable for growth.  To help, vertical mowing (i.e. verticutting) can aid in getting light and warmth to the soil surface.  This cultural practice can help remove dead leaf material and speed recovery.
  • Centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass have suffered the greatest.  There are many cases where reestablishment is going to the best option.  Consider making the decision early (i.e. now) and getting started with sodding or seeding as soon as possible (see slides)
  • Grass that was sodded last year is a hit or miss. Some bermudagrass and zoysiagrass that is less than a year old seems to greening-up and doing fine. Some is not. This is more likely a result of post establishment care, position within the landscape, and how late into the summer or fall the grass was sodded. Grasses planted earlier in the summer seem to be doing better than those established later. That stands to reason as the earlier planted grass had more time to establish and produce rhizomes and roots before the onset of winter. However, I’ve seen some zoysiagrass sodded earlier in the summer, on a northern exposure that didn’t make it through the winter. Water wasn’t an issue most of 2013, third wettest year on record. As a result, the associated lack of ample sunshine during the 2013 growing season may have contributed to suboptimal establishment and production of carbohydrates – a biochemical molecule responsible for energy and energy storage. With compromised production of carbohydrates, the turfgrass plant had less stored energy to initiate growth (i.e. green-up) this spring.
  • Fortunately I have not seen many incidences where I think early spring fertilization is the primary culprit for “winter kill”. But I have spoken with a few homeowners and landscapers that applied nitrogen in late February and early March, before soil temperatures were conducive for warm-season root growth (65ᵒ F). One was a centipedegrass lawn where the early fertilization coupled with the “Easter freeze” likely affected the majority of the lawn. From what I’ve observed to this point, I think the early fertilization is more closely linked to increased occurrence of disease (e.g. large patch) which is making homeowners think their lawn was affected by the low temperatures. Regardless of year, this issue is self-imposed and 100% avoidable.
  • In my plots the three primary St. Augustinegrass cultivars grown in Georgia (i.e. Mercedes, Palmetto, and Raleigh) have had some degree of damage.  The difficulty with St. Augustinegrass is that in sod production it typically does not “lift” well during the spring, do it’s early summer before producers can provide a quality product.  If a homeowner is considering re-sodding St. Augustinegrass, they can start site prep now but be prepared that quality sod may not be available until mid-June.
  • Typically I don’t consider environmental injury as a primary culprit to turfgrass loss, but after last summer and this past winter it’s real this year, especially for centipedegrass.  I’ve seen several centipedegrass, and St. Augustinegrass lawns, that will likely need complete re-grassing.  There is little that can be done to recover these lawns in a timely manner and “sanding” will likely be of little help.  TifBlair does have improved cold hardiness relative to common centipedegrass but this year I’ve seen it injured too but that seems specific to areas that remained under ice or snow for several days.  TifBlair in more open areas where the sun shortened the duration of snow cover seems to be delayed but greening.
  • If reestablishment either from sod or by seed is desired – now is an appropriate time for either practice.  In fact, if seeding is chosen – the earlier the better.  If the lawn was healthy going into the fall, seeding may be the better option.  The homeowner can mow the existing lawn low (i.e. scalp), collect the biomass (i.e. clippings), opening the canopy for seeds to make soil-to-seed contact.  By keeping some of the existing grass it may help speed recovery and provides a medium for seed to become established (i.e. a nurse grass).  The caveat to this is there was no preemergence herbicide applied this winter or spring.  If so, then don’t seed.  The herbicide will kill the germinating centipedegrass seed too.  Lastly, follow watering and establishment practices for a newly planted lawn.

Landscape Pop Quiz

Azalea lacebug Clemson University - USDA Cooperative Extension Slide SeriesThis is caused by Azalea Lace Bugs!

This information came from the publication Control of Common Pests of Landscape Plants 

Lace bugs get their name from the appearance of the area behind their head and wing covers. The area forms a lace like covering over the body of the insect. They are 1/8 to 1/4 inch in length and are partially transparent. Lace bug damage appears on the upper leaf surface as white to yellow chlorotic spots. The lower leaf surfaces will be cluttered with black spots and the old cast skins of immature lace bugs. Initiating control in the spring between March and May will reduce problems later in the season.

To find more id and control information on this or other landscape insects read the UGA publication Control of Common Pests of Landscape Plants 

To find pesticide recommendations and use information visit the Georgia Pest Management Handbook.

UGA Extension Celebrates 100 Year Anniversary!

Centennial video 1

100 Year Celebration Video

This special video highlights UGA Extension’s centennial with interviews from: former President Jimmy Carter; Georgia Governor Nathan Deal; UGA College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences Dean Scott Angle; UGA Extension Director Beverly Sparks; and county agents Paul Pugliese and Kisha Faulk.

To learn more about the Centennial visit this site.