Center for Urban Agriculture – Page 36 – Empowering Georgia through UGA Extension

Georgia Peas, Please

November 30, 2015January 14, 2015 by Becky Griffin

Even though we are all in frozen shock with frigid winter temperatures, we are happy to report that there is garden work to do. Peas are a cool-season crop and it is almost time to plant them. Garden peas, snap peas, and snow peas all go in to the ground about the same time. Garden peas are also called English peas and require shelling as only the pea seeds are eaten. Snap peas are relatively new to the vegetable garden and the entire pea pod with seeds is eaten. Snow peas do not develop large pea seeds and the pods are often used in stir-fry dishes.

Peas require full sun and most of them require some type of trellis. The trellis is helpful to support the pea vines and to keep the pods off the ground to help prevent rot. Some pea varieties are short, only 2-3 feet tall, while others can have vines as long as six feet. Read your seed package well to know what to expect. For a community garden plot, the easiest way to manage this crop is to put the trellis at one plot end and use the other space for additional cool-season vegetables. (See UGA’s Vegetable Planting Chart for some ideas.) Some gardeners use tomato cages they already have on hand. In colonial times, tree branches were put in the ground as small twig trellises. Some people prefer to just have a pea patch.

Start with well drained soil having a pH of 6.0-6.8. Forward thinking gardeners get their pea beds ready in the Fall so that all that is needed is the planting. The seeds should be planted 1 inch deep and 1-2 inches apart. Peas work with bacteria in the soil to “fix” nitrogen. This process take a while and it could be advantageous to use nitrogen-fixing soil inoculant just before planting. You may want to split this purchase with other gardeners as the inoculants usually have an annual expiration date. The inoculants are available through many seed companies; check your seed catalogs.

Literature says to plant peas as soon as the soil can be worked. For the Southern gardener this is misleading as our soil can often be worked all year long. The trick is to plant the seeds when the soil is warm enough for germination and the plant will grow and produce the vegetable before the weather gets too warm. If seeds sit in very cold, wet soil for long they may rot. Pea vines are more resistant to freezing than the pods. This is helpful as the vines will develop first. Timing is everything!

Soil temperatures need to be at least 45 degrees F. (Check out www.georgiaweather.net.) The warmer the soil temperatures the faster the peas germinate. You can use dark plastic mulch around the seeds to warm the soil a bit. Pay attention to the days to maturity number on your seed package as this can help guide you in a planting date. For Northern Georgia start checking the soil temperatures the last week of January. Have them planted before March 1st.

Peas are best eaten as soon as possible after they are picked so harvest often. All types are delicious to snack on as you work in the garden! Some recommended varieties of garden peas are Wando (which is somewhat heat tolerant) and Little Marvel, and Improved Maestro. Wando and Little Marvel are favorites of many Master Gardeners. Some gardeners choose not to trellis these types and just to have a pea patch. If you are growing snap peas consider Sugar Snap or Sugar Daddy. Snow pea gardeners enjoy growing the Norli variety. Your UGA Extension Agent and Master Gardeners can give you information on other varieties of peas to try growing.

We close with a gardening wives’ tale – ” If a girl finds nine peas in a pod, the next bachelor she meets will become her husband.”

Happy Gardening!

Licensed pesticide applicator – do you ever wonder …

November 30, 2015January 11, 2015 by Willie Chance

When does my license expire? To find out, visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site. Information on all applicators is here.

How many hours do I need for recertification? (Note that you should have earned all your hours by 90 days before license expiration!) Visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site.

Is my address correct with the GA Department of Agriculture? If not – you may not receive your new license renewal! Visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site.

Where can I earn more hours towards certification? Visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site and look halfway down the page.

How much does it cost to be recertified? Visit the GA Dept of Ag pesticide faq site.

Can I renew my license online? Visit the GA Dept of Ag online licensing site.

To get answers to other questions, visit the GA Dept of Ag pesticide faq site or contact them at martha.loggins@agr.georgia.gov or call (404)-656-4958.

Success with Off-Season Sodding

November 30, 2015January 7, 2015 by Willie Chance

Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, University of Georgia. This info is edited from a longer article which can be read here.

Dormant transplanting of trees and ornamentals in the Southeastern United States is a common practice. Warm-season turfgrass sod can also be successfully established during dormancy.

Recommendations for normal sodding also apply to off-season sodding.

Successful transplanting is highly dependent on healthy sod, which is difficult to determine when the sod is dormant or overseeded.
Rootzone preparation is critical for success. Loosen the soil to a depth of 6 inches by tilling before sodding.
During site preparation prior to turf establishment is the best time to take a soil sample to determine pH and nutrient needs. Correction of soil pH and soil nutrient deficiencies is more effective when lime and fertilizer are incorporated into the soil before sodding.
Next, level smooth and moisten the soil. The soil should be lightly watered, but not saturated. Ruts from foot traffic or equipment can occur when soils are too wet and are difficult to repair after the sod is laid.
To prevent drying and potential cold injury of roots, install sod within 48 hours after harvest. This also allows the radiant heat from the earth to offer the sod some protection from cold injury when compared to turf exposed to the elements on a pallet.
Sod should be laid tight and rolled to minimize creases. If creases are apparent after sodding, top dress the sod to fill low spots, conserve moisture and potentially retain heat near the soil surface.
For best survival, avoid winter desiccation and low temperature injury. Dessication can be a significant problem since the warm dry winds of late winter and early spring increase the demand for water, but the combination of low soil temperatures and a limited root system will reduce the plant’s ability to obtain water.
Direct low temperature injury can be a problem because the crowns, stolons and shallow rhizomes may be killed. Unfortunately, newly sodded turf lacks deep rhizomes and the expansive root system necessary to recover from winter stresses.

Research and practical experience has shown that warm-season turfgrasses may be successfully sodded during the off-season (October-April) when the grass is dormant or slowly growing. However, the cooler climates in and north of Atlanta may damage some turf species. More winter injury has been observed on zoysiagrass and centipedegrass as compared to bermudagrass sodded in the fall or winter.

Overseeding sod with ryegrass may reduce warm season turf vigor and quality. While overseeded turf may look appealing during the winter months, during the spring the more heat-tolerant perennial ryegrasses can compete with the warm-season turf for water, nutrients and light. This can cause a poor spring transition and delayed green-up of the warm-season species. This is more common in ryegrass that has been heavily fertilized in the spring.
To assist spring green-up and stimulate turfgrass growth, fertilize with 1.0 to 1.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet once night temperatures consistently reach the mid 60s F. Also to further encourage warm-season species growth, lower the mowing height. This practice opens the turfgrass canopy, allowing more sun to the permanent warm-season species while stressing the overseeded grass. Resume accepted maintenance practices once conditions are favorable for warm-season turfgrass growth.

In summary, successful sod transplanting depends on proper soil preparation, good soil-to-sod contact, avoiding low temperature injury, and most importantly – proper water management to prevent desiccation. For more information, see these resources or contact your local UGA Extension Office.

See the original article here which has more information

Lawns in Georgia

Using IPM in the Georgia Community Garden

November 30, 2015January 7, 2015 by Becky Griffin

You may have heard about integrated pest management (IPM) and wondered if it is something only farmers use. Actually IPM has a real place in any type of gardening, including your community garden plot. According to the UGA Integrated Pest Management website this is the definition of IPM:

It is a science-based decision making process that employs biological, mechanical, cultural, and chemical control methods in such a way as to minimize economic, environmental, and public health risks associated with pests and pest management practices.

Notice it is science-based decision making. This is important.

In practice, the gardener employs many different strategies to combat an insect pest or disease instead of just reaching for the chemical spray. For a very basic example a gardener wants to grow tomatoes knowing that Fusarium wilt can be a problem. (Fusarium wilt is a fungus that lives in the soil and infects plants through their root systems.) This gardener will employ IPM by:

Fusarium wilt on tomatoes. Photo from bugwood by William M. Brown, Jr.

making sure his/her soil is healthy
growing healthy plants using recommended fertilization and watering practices
learning about the Fusarium wilt fungus and its biology
choosing tomato cultivars that show resistance to Fusarium wilt – these will have the letter “F” after the cultivar name
caring for garden equipment by proper disinfection and not using equipment from another gardener that has not been disinfected
being aware of the hot, dry weather that favors Fusarium wilt and looking for wilting especially during these conditions
destroying any infected plants
practicing crop rotation

With IPM, actions are taken to prevent diseases and pests from becoming a problem. Rather than simply eliminating the pests that are found right now, using IPM means the gardener will look at environmental factors that affect the pest and its ability to do damage. Armed with this information, the gardener can create conditions that are unfavorable for the pest. Know your enemy!

Your local UGA Extension agent can help you make a positive disease or insect identification so that you can make a plan to deter the problem.

Learning when and where an insect pest lays her eggs can help you find those eggs and remove them. Determining what weather conditions favor a disease can help you adjust your planting date to avoid the peak of the disease. Finding out how a disease is spread can also help you combat it. Is it soil-borne or are fungal spores spread with wind? Also, what beneficial insects prey on your insect pest and how can you attract those helpful insects?

Subscribing to this blog and other researched based information sources can help you know what diseases or pests are problematic in your area and what you can do about them.

If you haven’t visited the Upcoming Classes page of this blog, please do so. There are many classes and workshops coming up. Many are free and some are offered online.

Happy Gardening!

Managing Mistletoe in Trees

November 30, 2015January 5, 2015 by Willie Chance

This is an excerpt from American Mistletoe Infection in Trees by Kim Coder, Professor of Tree Health Care, University of Georgia. For more complete information, including images, see the original publication here.

There are currently three mistletoe elimination interventions, each delivering varying results. The three interventions are pruning infected tree branches, shoot pruning of mistletoe, and/or using a labeled chemical spray (ethephon). Note any specific commercial product mentioned here does not represent an endorsement, nor a statement of efficaciousness, but a summary of marketplace information at the time this publication was prepared.

Tree Pruning – Infection site branch pruning is a common means of controlling mistletoe. A twig or branch infected with mistletoe can be pruned at the nearest healthy originating node below an infection site. Do not tip, top, or use internode cuts on a twig or branch. (See Figure 11 in original publication online). The target node for pruning should be at least 14 inches below an infection site. Mistletoe infection site elimination through branch pruning should be treated as a proper pruning (Figure 12) or reduction cut (Figure 13, Figure 14, Figure 15). Figures in the original publication show proper cuts to be made at the next lowest branch node greater than 14 inches below an infection. Years will be needed for a tree to regain structural integrity after extensive mistletoe removal pruning.

Mistletoe Shoot Removal – One traditional treatment for mistletoe infection is to knock off brittle mistletoe stems from tree branches. Mistletoe stems snap off easy and nearly flush with branch bark, usually at the remnants of the holdfast leaving the haustorial cushion behind still within a branch. This treatment immediately reduces water loss from a tree, and reduces mistletoe reproduction. Unfortunately, simply knocking off mistletoe stems does not eliminate infections because the endophytic part of the mistletoe remains intact. It usually takes 1-3 years before mistletoe shoots noticeably reappear after removal. Approximately 80% of all pruned mistletoe stems re-grow and while without green shoots, become completely parasitic on a tree. Periodic mistletoe shoot removal may be a viable treatment on main stem infections where pruning is not practical.

A few studies have used a combination of mistletoe shoot removal and blocking light to the haustorial cushion. Light has been excluded from haustoria by various wraps, sprays, and applications like heavy pruning paint applications, aluminum foil, tin disks, tarpaper, tape, caulking, or black plastic. It is critical to not injure tree tissues around an infection site with any topical coating or through affixing any covering. Mistletoe shoot pruning and light exclusion from an infection site was thought to prevent new mistletoe shoot formation and starve haustoria embedded in tree branches. Generally, these types of mistletoe shoot stub treatment have not been found to be completely effective and so, not recommended in most circumstances.

Chemical Spray – (Note that pesticide information was correct as of August 2008 – labeled uses can change. Check the pesticide label for the most recent information!) Ethephon [(2-chloroethyl) phosphonic acid] acts as a mistletoe shoot abscission and defoliator by generating ethylene, a plant growth regulator. For example in one study, a 2% ethephon treatment applied to mistletoe shoots in the dormant season defoliated shoots in 75 days with no resprouting for 225 days, and with no negative impacts on the host. This treatment did not significantly impact the haustoria and new sprouts from the haustorial cushion area formed within 1-2 years.

Currently there is a chemical product labeled for mistletoe shoot control which contains this shoot abscission chemical (ethephon). This product is sold under the name FLOREL brand growth regulator, a trademark of the Rhone-Poulenc AG Company, and distributed by Monterey Lawn & Garden Products, Fresno, CA. [EPA Registration Number 54705-8]. Information for this publication regarding this product came from the company’s web site (accessed 8/29/2008). All label information was derived from the electronic version of the chemical product label.

The product as currently formulated contains 3.9% ethephon (0.33 lbs ethephon per gallon). The chemical is a highly acidic, colorless, odorless, clear liquid. This labeled product “… will cause the abscission of … leafy mistletoe shoots in ornamental deciduous trees.” Technically, this product is not labeled for leafy mistletoe removal from evergreen trees. Note a wide variety of other concentrations and application methods have been used in past research papers.

This ethephon product should be sprayed directly on mistletoe clumps until foliage and stems are wet.

Timing is crucial to prevent tree damage. Spraying should be completed after Fall leaf drop and before tree bud burst in Spring when daytime temperatures are above 65oF. Mix the product following all label directions. For example, under current label mixing instructions, mix one quart of product in 2 gallons of water for 5400 ppm concentration. Use of a surfactant is recommended. Spray only when no rain is forecast for a minimum of 24 hours. Return to and re-spray large clumps of mistletoe in one week. Because only the mistletoe shoot is impacted, retreat every 3-4 years. Mix and spray this product immediately. Do not store the mixed spray liquid for more than a few hours. Care is needed to prevent over-spray from staining or etching hardscapes or damaging painted surfaces.

Remember to carefully read and review the product label for your personal safety, safety of other living things, and the legal context of product use. Do not use this product near individuals or habitats of protected species, some of which could be around the tree site or on the tree exterior.

See the entire publication Mistletoe Infection in Trees here.

Image credit – Joy Viola, Northeastern University, Bugwood.org

New Year’s Resolutions in the Georgia Garden

November 30, 2015December 31, 2014 by Becky Griffin

At this time of the year it is customary to reflect on the old and think about making the new better. In the context of your community garden, what is your New Year’s Resolution? Would you like to see more community involvement? How about improving the common areas of the garden? Or, maybe you want to try and grow something you have never tried before.

Whatever your thoughts, take action to make them happen. The resources are out there to help you. Make effort to attend a class given by your local UGA Extension office. (Periodically visit the Events Page of this blog for ideas). Or, visit your local Extension office to get some ideas on what to plant and how to preserve it. Comment on this blog to exchange tips with us, and other gardeners. Visit some other gardens for inspiration. The possibilities for a plentiful harvest in 2015 are endless!

Happy New Year!

Merry Christmas to Gardeners

November 30, 2015December 24, 2014 by Becky Griffin

Merry Christmas to Gardeners

T’was the weekend before Christmas, and all through the yard,
Not a gift was being given, not even a card.
The tools were all hung, in the garage with care,
With hopes that St. Nicholas soon would repair.
The shovel with blade all rusty and cracked,
The pitchfork still shiny, but handle it lacked.
When out on my lawn, (it’s brown and abused)
I could see poor old Santa, looking confused.
No list had been left for Santa to see,
No gardening gifts were under the tree.
But wait there’s still time, it’s not Christmas yet,
And gardening gifts are the quickest to get.
You can forget the silk tie, the fluffy new sweater,
Give something to make the garden grow better.

If she wants a gift shiny, then don’t be a fool,
It’s not a dumb diamond, but a sparkling new tool.
If fragrance is listed you can forget French perfume,
t’s a pile of manure that’ll make gardeners swoon.
Give night crawlers, not nightgowns, a hose that sprays water.
(Anything for the kitchen is not worth the bother.)
Give a great gift that can dig in the dirt,
It’s better than any designer-brand shirt.
Now look quick at Santa, this guy’s not so dumb,
Under his glove, he hides a green thumb.
His knees are so dirty, his back how it aches,

His boots stomp on slugs, (he gives them no breaks).
The guy works only winter, you can surely see why,
For the rest of the year it’s as easy as pie.
He has elves plant through spring, pull weeds in the summer,
In fall they all harvest, but winter’s a bummer
And so Christmas gives Santa a part-time employment,
‘Till spring when the blooms are his real enjoyment.
So ask the big guy for garden gifts this year,
Seeds, plants and tools, Santa holds them all dear.
You see, malls may be crowded, vendors hawking their wares,
But visit a nursery, stress-free shopping is there.
Now Santa’s flown off, to the nursery he goes,
And his voice fills the night with loud Hoe! Hoe! Hoe!

I am not sure who to credit for this witty bit of poetry but I hope you enjoyed it! We look forward to exchanging more useful gardening information with you during 2015.

Merry Christmas!

What is this insect and why is it inside?

November 30, 2015December 19, 2014 by Willie Chance

This is a casemaking clothes moth larva feeding on wool carpet with an adult moth (inset). Clothes moth larvae feed on items of animal origin (feathers, wool, etc.) and can permanently damage items made from animal products – clothes, carpet, etc.

This information is taken from the UGA publication, Management of Pest Insects in and Around the Home

Clothes moths (Tineidae: Tineola and Tinea spp.): Shiny, light gold-colored, 1/4 inch moth with fringed wing margins. The most common species in Georgia is the casemaking clothes moth (Tinea pellionella). Larvae of casemaking clothes moths build rectangular to elliptical cases about 1/4 inch that are open at both ends and spun from materials and/or fibers in their immediate environment, often fibers they have been feeding on. Larvae live, protected, inside the case. Larvae have a dark band just behind their head, which is visible only when the larva projects its head out of the case to feed.

Habits: Moths fly at night, usually in an erratic pattern, in search of mates and food. Adults lay eggs on items of animal origin, commonly feathers and wool. Larvae crawl around and on the item while feeding from inside their case. In preparation for pupation, larvae of the casemaking clothes moth crawl away from the item they are infesting and attach their case to the wall or other nearby vertical surface.

Interventions: Wash, steam-clean or dry-clean all items of animal origin, especially wool. Have infested textiles professionally cleaned. If items cannot be washed or steam-cleaned (large quantities of material, such as area rugs) then consider small-scale fumigation or storage for at least a month in a freezer. Before cleaned items are put back in the home, remove, by hand, visible pupal cases from vertical surfaces and from shelves. Consider storing susceptible fabrics in sealed containers to prevent re-infestation. Use pheromone traps to capture male moths. If desired, apply a spot treatment with an appropriately labeled residual spray to the area where moths and larvae are found.

Might Be Confused With: Indianmeal moths; other, small, incidental moths that fly indoors, from outdoors, when doors are open.

For more information on control:

Look under Fabric Pests here for non-chemical controls

Argentine ants may move inside in the winter!

November 30, 2015December 17, 2014 by Willie Chance

This is an excerpt from the UGA publication Argentine Ants by Dan Suiter and Brian Forschler, Department of Entomology

Argentine ant from pub — Argentine ants form strong foraging trails.

To survive the winter, Argentine ants commonly move into protected environments where temperatures are warmer and environmental conditions more stable. In structures, for example, ants commonly move into voids and other elements of construction that provide a warm, stable environment.

As spring temperatures return, Argentine ants move back into their preferred, outdoor nest sites where colonies grow steadily throughout the warm season. In the Southeast, populations typically peak in late summer. By early winter, declining temperatures once again trigger ants to begin searching for protected overwintering sites, and the cycle repeats.

To prevent large, late-season ant populations, and the resulting problems associated with winter infestations, management practices (especially outdoor baiting) should be started in the spring and continued through the warm season.

There are a number of approaches that can be utilized for the treatment of existing Argentine ant infestations, but no single insecticide-based approach is completely effective. An integrated approach, therefore, that incorporates both chemical and nonchemical techniques is best suited for the management of this ant species. If chemical controls are utilized, read and follow all pesticide label instructions, and never do more than what the label permits.

Before chemically-based Argentine ant control measures are undertaken, a thorough inspection of the indoor and outdoor premises should be conducted to determine the extent and origin of the infestation. The inspection should identify those areas where chemical control approaches should be directed.

The Argentine Ants publication discusses management techniques used to control these ants.

Victorian Neighborhood Association Community Garden

November 30, 2015December 17, 2014 by Becky Griffin

The Victorian Neighborhood Association Community Garden is a beautiful space framed by a decorative wooden fence and entrance arch. It is lined up with the surrounding homes on an historic Savannah street. There are a dozen or so raised bed plots. A plot of flowers to attract pollinators is at the entrance. In October there is eggplant, tomatoes, okra, carrots and herbs. Carol Moon, of the City of Savannah, indicated that the plots are worked by a diverse group. Some are maintained by families, other plots are worked by individuals, and one plot is maintained by someone from a local church who uses her plot to teach the joy of growing food to young, future gardeners.

This garden is one of seven managed through a partnership with the City of Savannah through the 2012 Community Garden Initiative. Savannah was having trouble with vacant city lots. The lots were

an eyesore for the residents and a maintenance challenge for the city. What a perfect situation for community gardens. The neighborhood approaches the city if they want to turn a city-owned vacant lot into a garden. The application is extensive. The city needs to know the residents are serious about wanting the garden and have a clear plan for running the space. Garden leadership is especially important from the beginning. There are currently seven such gardens and three more in the works. Ms. Moon oversees the community gardening project. She says that each garden is very different; reflective of their individual neighborhood personalities. The City of Savannah is justifiable proud of this program. They are a state leader in this area. For more information on this project visit their website.

Once a quarter the city hosts a get together for the garden leaders. They

Neighborhood President Maurice Norman cuts the ribbon when the garden was new. Also pictured is Savannah mayor Edna B. Jackson.

can socialize and share ideas. The city can share any change in guidelines. Local businesses support the gardens by donations. Some of the gardens have fund raisers. What an incredible use of run-down, vacant lots! Chatham County Extension Agent, David Linville, is a great resource for community gardeners.

Happy Gardening!

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