Center for Urban Agriculture – Page 34 – Empowering Georgia through UGA Extension

Late Season Annual Bluegrass Control in Residential Turfgrass

November 30, 2015March 8, 2015 by Willie Chance

Clint Waltz and Patrick McCullough, Turfgrass Specialist and Weed Specialist, University of Georgia

Annual bluegrass - Robert Vidéki, Doronicum Kft., Bugwood.org — Annual bluegrass – Robert Vidéki, Doronicum Kft., Bugwood.org

Annual bluegrass (Poa annua L.) is a troublesome winter annual weed in residential turf. Compared to most turfgrasses, annual bluegrass has a lighter green color, coarser leaf texture, and produces unsightly seedheads.

Annual bluegrass seed germinates throughout the late-summer and early-fall once soil temperatures drop below 70° F. Seedlings grow and mature in fall, overwinter in a vegetative state, and produce seed in spring. A second germination can occur in late-winter as soil temperatures rise and the days become longer.

Annual bluegrass is a prolific seed producer and individual plants may produce hundreds of viable seed, even when closely mowed. Annual bluegrass flowers over several months in spring and produces seed that may remain dormant in soil for years before germinating. Annual bluegrass often dies from summer stresses but may survive in protected sites that receive irrigation. Controlling annual bluegrass in mid- to late-spring in residential lawns can be difficult.

Annual bluegrass can produce seeds even when closely mowed. Image - John Kaminiski — Annual bluegrass can produce seeds even when closely mowed. Image – John Kaminiski

Control in bermudagrass and zoysiagrass

Up until mid-February (when the bermudagrass was fully dormant) applying a glyphosate containing product (e.g. Roundup) was an option for postemergence annual bluegrass control. Even then, care must be taken not to “overdose” the weed and harm the bermudagrass. Applicators commonly over-spray the weed with glyphosate and some herbicide moves deep into the bermudagrass canopy where it contacts green bermudagrass stolons near the ground. Any green part of the plant in the bermudagrass can absorb the glyphosate which can damage the plant.

It is now too late and risky to consider spraying glyphosate to control annual bluegrass in dormant bermudagrass. While bermudagrass may still look “completely” dormant it is starting to greenup and the application of glyphosate during greenup can damage the turf. Do not apply glyphosate to dormant grass of any type other than bermudagrass since other grasses never really go completely dormant and may be damaged by the herbicide.

There are a few selective herbicidal options to control annual bluegrass at this point in the season. In bermudagrass and zoysiagrass, if the annual bluegrass population is bad enough the best option is treating with either Revolver (foramsulfuron) or Monument (trifloxysulfuron).

Control in centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass

Neither of these herbicides is labeled for use on centipedegrass or St. Augustinegrass. In centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass, atrazine containing products are an option but large annual bluegrass grass plants are difficult to control with a single application.

The weed is an annual cool-season grassy weed that will die-out in a couple months as temperatures warm. For now, having patience and tolerance maybe the best option. Plan for next winter and spring. Begin with good turfgrass cultivation this summer. For example:

Deep and infrequent irrigation encourages turfgrass root development which improves the ability of the lawngrass to compete with weeds.
• Identify and alleviate soil compaction since annual bluegrass prefers compacted soils. For rapid recovery and improved vigor, core aerifications should be performed during the active growth period of warm-season turfgrasses.
• Mow the lawn at the appropriate height for the grass species. Lower mowing heights may stress turf and reduce its ability to compete with annual bluegrass. For proper mowing height recommendations, visit www.GeorgiaTurf.com
• Lastly, begin a preemergence herbicide program in late-summer to help control the seed that were deposited this season.

Landscapers can help homeowners with controlling annual bluegrass now and planning a healthier lawn to prevent annual bluegrass next year.

Ambrosia Beetles begin flying in Jan and Feb!

November 30, 2015March 6, 2015 by Willie Chance

Will Hudson, UGA Extension Entomologist

Asian or granulate ambrosia beetles are tiny (<1/8″) wood-boring insects that attack the trunks of young and weakened trees and shrubs. Ambrosia beetles tunnel into stems and construct galleries where they raise their young. Beetles carry on their bodies a fungus that grows in these galleries producing ambrosia which feeds both adults and larvae. Ambrosia beetles can also carry the spores of disease pathogens that infect the tree. The growth of these fungi can lead to weakening or death of the tree.

As ambrosia beetles tunnel, they push sawdust out through their entry hole. This sawdust can cling together forming short ‘toothpicks’ sticking from the infested stem. These toothpicks make it easy to identify ambrosia beetle attacks.

Wind or rain may destroy these toothpicks leaving just the small holes and scattered sawdust from the beetle. Since the entry holes are only about the size of a #2 pencil lead, close inspection is necessary to detect these attacks in time to treat. Ambrosia beetles attack many types of trees and shrubs including crape myrtles, cherries, oaks, sweet gums, pecans, peaches and others.

The ambrosia beetle’s first flight occurs with mild weather typically in February but possibly as early as January. Cold weather will put them off for a while, but we usually see a big emergence of the granulate ambrosia beetle ranging from February in south Georgia to early March in north Georgia.

Young trees in nurseries and trees that have been in landscapes for less than three years old are vulnerable to attack even if they are not obviously stressed. This is especially true during the green-up period. Prompt action can save these trees if the number of attacks (“toothpicks”) is less than 4 – 5 per tree.

Growers of nursery trees and shrubs, as well as landscapers with new trees, can apply a spray to protect vulnerable trees. The spray should be repeated every 10 – 14 days until the plants are completely leafed out.

If applied in time, pyrethroid insecticides can repel the beetles even after plants are attacked. Pyrethroids like permethrin (Pounce, Astro), Talstar, Decathlon, or others will work. Once the trees have leafed out completely, they are less attractive to the beetles unless the trees are under stress. Prevent stress to shrubs and trees to lower chance of ambrosia beetle injury.

Spray affected trees, being careful to cover the trunk completely. Monitor the trees for signs of wilting of the new leaves, a sign that a pathogen has been introduced. Once the wilting starts, the tree will probably die. Do not assume the attack will be fatal, since trees may recover. Also watch treated trees to see if new toothpicks develop – a sign that the ambrosia beetles are still active.

Nursery trees that are attacked should be sprayed and separated from the rest of the block (if possible), and watched closely for signs of wilting. Nursery trees that are attacked but don’t wilt may not need to be destroyed. If they leaf out and seem healthy and no further toothpick formation is noted, then the small holes will heal quickly and leave no permanent damage.

If you see toothpicks on larger trees, the tree is probably severely stressed. If attacks are confined to one limb, pruning is an option. If the attacks are on the main stem, prepare to remove the tree if it dies.

Considering the history of this pest in Georgia, there is a good chance that any given nursery or landscape will suffer little or no damage and spraying will not be necessary. Watch susceptible trees or shrubs closely for beetle attacks.

Traps can be used to monitor the activity of this pest. For more information on constructing Ambrosia beetle traps see Activity Monitoring in this publication.

Prune liriope and pampus grass in late winter

November 30, 2015March 6, 2015 by Willie Chance

Two ornamental plants in the landscape that are commonly sheared are liriope and ornamental grasses such as pampas grass. Shearing in late winter removes old growth and makes way for new shoots.

Liriope

Annual removal of liriope foliage is not a necessity; however, cutting back is desirable if severe winter injury to the foliage has occurred. Running a lawn mower over the plants is a practical means of removal. Hedge shears may be a more practical means for large individual clumps.

In Georgia, new growth often begins to emerge in February and March; therefore, prune earlier or plan to cut back high to prevent injury to the new shoots.

Severely pruning mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus) is not recommended.

Mondo grass (also called monkeygrass or Ophiopogon) redevelops slowly after severe pruning. Do not shear these plants.

Homeowners and maintenance personnel often neglect fertilizing lilyturf and thus do not obtain maximum vigor. A broadcast application of a general lawn or shrub fertilizer in early spring and again in mid-summer should be adequate to maintain the desired vigor.

Dwarf pampas grass Image - Jeff Webb — Dwarf pampas grass Image – Jeff Webb

Pampus grass

Prune pampas grass annually to remove the previous year’s foliage and make way for new growth. Pruning is best done in late winter, prior to the new growing season. Use hedge shears, lopping shears or power pruners to cut the plant back close to ground level. Be sure to wear a long-sleeve shirt and gloves when pruning to protect yourself from the sharp leaf blades.

After pruning pampas grass, apply a light, broadcast application of a complete fertilizer, like 8-8-8 or 10-10-10, to help stimulate new growth.

This is edited from these publications – where you can find more information.

Liriope Culture in Georgia

Pampas Grass

Care of Ornamental Plants in the Landscape

For the Love of Georgia Kale

November 30, 2015March 4, 2015 by Becky Griffin

Kale seems to be the vegetable of the year. The nutritive properties of kale are legendary. It is high in vitamins A and C and loaded with fiber. You can find it raw in salads, sautéed in stir-fries, fried into chips, steamed in to a side dish and pureed into smoothies. The good news for community gardeners in Georgia is that kale is easy to grow. It is a cool-season crop and March is the time to plant kale transplants outdoors.

March weather in Georgia can be tricky. If you have grown your own transplants from seed indoors, it is imperative that you harden off your plants. Give them a chance to acclimate to being outdoors by setting them out in a protected area, like on a porch, during a sunny day with no wind. Leave them out only during the day at first. Gradually expose them to a less protected area and then let them be out overnight. Once they are in the garden, protect them from wind. Wind can dry out the plant and damage the plant tissues.

Add compost to the kale bed before planting or add high nitrogen amendments such as blood meal or cottonseed meal. Nitrogen is important since you are growing the plants for the leaves. Space the transplants 18 to 24 inches apart since the plants will get large. Mulch helps keep soil temperatures and moisture even.

Many gardeners say the key to tender kale is the watering. Keep the transplants well watered. As they grow make sure they get about 1 inch of water per week. During the cool temperatures of spring, it is easy to forget to water.

When the plants are ready for harvesting, start with the outer and lower leaves. Remember the smaller leaves will be more tender and would probably be better in salads then the tougher, larger leaves. As the soil temperatures warm up you will find the plant grows faster. As it approaches really warm weather and longer days your established plants may bolt sending up a flower stalk. This is your cue to replace the kale crop with a warm-season vegetable.

Varieties such as “Vates”, “Dwarf Siberian” or “Red Russian” are popular with Georgia gardeners. If you don’t have room in your early spring garden for growing kale, consider putting it in your fall garden.

Next week we will have a kale recipe from a famous Georgia chef. It is a good one!

Happy Gardening!

Cold February gives way to warm March weather

November 30, 2015March 2, 2015 by Willie Chance

Written by Pam Knox, UGA Agricultural Climatologist, and taken from the CASE website

February 2015 was the second coldest February since 1978, based on preliminary data from National Weather Service stations, rivaling the chilly February of 2010. Precipitation was variable across the state, although most stations were close to normal. Two major storms caused significant impacts across northern Georgia in mid- and late February.

Temperatures across the state were well below normal in February. In Atlanta, the monthly average temperature was 40.4 degrees F (6.8 degrees below normal), in Athens 40.3 degrees (6.9 degrees below normal), Columbus 44.7 (6.4 degrees below normal), Macon 43.7 (6.3 below normal), Savannah 47.3 (5.7 below normal), Brunswick 49.2 (5.3 below normal), Alma 47.7 (6.5 below normal), Augusta 42.8 (6.3 below normal), Albany 47.7 (4.7 below normal) and Valdosta 49.5 (4.7 below normal).

A number of daily low temperatures were broken this month, most during a cold outbreak February 19-21. On February 20, Athens set a record low of 14 F, smashing the old record of 18 F set in 1958. Columbus recorded 21 F and Macon 18 F, beating the old records of 22 F and 21 F, both also set in 1958. Savannah set both a record low minimum and maximum temperature on that date, reporting a high of 41 F, which broke the record of 44 F, and a low of 21, breaking the old record of 22 F set in 1958. Alma and Brunswick set record low maximum temperatures on both the 19^thand 20^thand Augusta set a record low maximum temperature on the 19^th.

The thermograph below (produced using cli-MATE from the Midwestern Regional Climate Center) shows the daily temperature observations for Athens for the last three months to show how much below average this cold outbreak was.

The highest monthly total precipitation from National Weather Service reporting stations was 4.70 inches in Augusta (0.28 inches above normal) and the lowest was in Brunswick at 2.69 inches (0.78 inches below normal). Atlanta received 4.15 inches (0.52 inches below normal), Athens received 3.99 inches (0.49 below normal), Macon received 4.36 inches (0.0 below normal), Columbus 4.22 inches (0.22 below normal), Savannah 3.44 inches (0.65 above normal), Alma 3.62 inches (0.18 below normal), Valdosta 4.60 inches (0.44 above normal), and Albany 4.03 inches (0.13 below normal).

Atlanta and Athens reported daily precipitation records for traces of snow on days which had never experienced snow before: Atlanta reported snow on the 21^st, and Athens on the 19^th and 20^th.

The highest single-day rainfall from CoCoRaHS stations was 3.20 inches in Eastman in Dodge County on February 26, followed by 2.95 inches received southeast of Sylvania in Screven County on the same date. The highest monthly total rainfall was 6.52 inches, observed south of Americus in Sumter County, followed by 6.31 inches south of Senoia in Coweta County. The highest daily snowfall value was 8.2 inches reported near Rabun Gap on the 26^th, and they also had the highest monthly snowfall total of 12.1 inches.

Two winter storms caused problems in northern Georgia this month. On February 16-17 a storm brought freezing rain, sleet and snow to areas of the northeast, dropping many tree limbs and cutting power to many. At the height of the storm almost 100,000 people in Georgia were without power. Many schools closed due to hazardous weather as well as lack of power.

A second major winter storm caused problems across northern Georgia in late February. The storm was part of a large weather system which brought mixed winter precipitation to areas from Texas to Washington DC. You can read a detailed write-up of the storm from the Peachtree City National Weather Service office athttp://www.srh.noaa.gov/ffc/?n=20150225_heavy_snow.

Because of the cold weather this month, no severe weather was reported anywhere in the state in February.

The above normal precipitation in south Georgia increased soil moisture, helping to eliminate abnormally dry conditions in some areas. The driest part of the state is now in the far north.

The cold temperatures caused frost damage to early blueberries in south Georgia. Estimates of losses ranged for 10-15 percent in areas where frost protection was used to 30-40 percent in areas where it was not. This is expected to delay the delivery of early Georgia blueberries to markets for one to two weeks. Small grains have also continued to suffer from the cold conditions.

The outlook for March shows wet and cold conditions may continue into the first half of March. By mid-month, a major pattern shift is expected to bring much warmer air into the Southeast.

When should we prune azaleas & crape myrtles (and other plants!)

November 30, 2015February 25, 2015 by Willie Chance

Prune spring blooming azaleas after they bloom and crape myrtles in late winter before growth begins.

Info edited from Pruning ornamental plants in the landscape

Because flowering ornamentals form their flower buds at different times of year, pruning times must be adjusted accordingly. Many spring-flowering plants such as azalea, dogwood, forsythia, redbud and rhododendron set flower buds in the fall, so pruning during the fall or winter months eliminates or decreases their spring flower display. Plants that typically flower during the summer form flower buds on new growth and can be pruned during the winter with no effect on their flowering. Examples of this type of plant are crape myrtle and abelia.

As a general rule, plants that flower before May should be pruned after they bloom, while those that flower after May are considered summer-flowering and can be pruned just prior to spring growth. One exception to this rule is the oakleaf hydrangea, a summer-flowering shrub that forms flower buds the previous season. Another exception is late-flowering azalea cultivars, which bloom during May, June or even July. Prune both the oakleaf hydrangea and the azalea cultivars after they bloom. Table 1 provides suggested pruning times for other plants.

Table 1. Suggested Pruning Time for Common Flowering Trees, Shrubs and Vines
*Prune after Flowering*
Azalea	Japanese Pieris
Beautybush	Lilac
Bigleaf hydrangea	Mockorange
Bradford Pear	Oakleaf hydrangea
Bridalwreath Spirea	Pearlbush
Clematis	Pyracantha
Climbing roses	Redbud
Crabapple	Saucer Magnolia
Deutzia	Star Magnolia
Dogwood	Shrub Honeysuckle
Doublefile Vibernum	Thunberg Spirea
Flowering Almond	Vanhoutte Spirea
Flowering Cherry	Weigelia
Flowering Quince	Winter Daphne
Forsythia	Wisteria
Japanese Kerria	Witchhazel
*Prune before Spring Growth Begins*
Beautyberry	Goldenrain Tree
Camellia	Japanese Barberry
Chaste Tree (Vitex)	Japanese Spirea
Cranberrybush Viburnum	Mimosa
Crape myrtle	Nandina
Floribunda roses	Rose-of-Sharon (Althea)
Frangrant Tea Olive	Sourwood
Grandiflora roses	Anthony Waterer Spirea
Glossy Abelia	Sweetshrub
Hedges

Ornamental plants that are not grown for their showy flowers can be pruned during the late winter, spring or summer months. Avoid pruning during the fall or early winter because it may encourage tender new growth that is not sufficiently hardened to resist the winter cold.

Some shade and flowering trees tend to bleed or excrete large amounts of sap from pruning wounds. Among these trees are maple, birch, dogwood, beech, elm, willow, flowering plum and flowering cherry. Sap excreted from the tree is not harmful, but it is unsightly. To minimize bleeding, prune these trees after the leaves have matured. Leaves use plant sap when they expand, and the tree excretes less sap from the wound.

For more information, see the publication Pruning ornamental plants in the landscape.

Compost in 2015-A Guest Post by Mary Carol Sheffield

November 30, 2015February 25, 2015 by Becky Griffin

Resolve to live more sustainably in 2015 by creating a compost pile or bin to help reduce waste.

Many items thrown into the trash can be sorted out and composted and benefits go well beyond waste reduction. Compost can be used to improve garden soil and make landscapes and vegetable gardens more productive. With a little organization and a designated space, gardeners can amend their own soil through composting.

Start by finding a space where the compost can “cook.” The location should be in full sun, at least 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet, out of the way and with good drainage.

A compost container can be bought or built with materials like welded wire, fencing, pallets or blocks. Open spaces should be left on the container’s sides to allow good air circulation through the pile, and the bottom should be open to the ground.

Just like cooking a meal, cooking compost involves following a recipe. Almost any organic plant material

Compost bins at the North Fulton Annex Community Garden

can be used for composting, including grass clippings, leaves, flowers, annual weeds, twigs, chopped brush, old vegetable plants, straw and sawdust.

Avoid composting diseased plants, weeds and seeds or invasive weeds, like morning glory. Vegetable peelings and coffee grounds can also be composted, but avoid adding meats, bones and fats that may attract animals.

For best decomposition, mix a variety of materials. Most compost piles are layered with whatever organic material is available at a given time. The smaller the pieces of organic matter, the faster they will decompose. Once a layer of organic matter is added, add a little garden soil or animal manure. This adds fungi, bacteria, insects and worms to the pile and helps speed up the decomposition process.

Keep the pile moist, but not too wet. To speed up the decomposition process and prevent odors, use a shovel to mix the pile once a month. Compost is completely “cooked” and ready when it looks like rich, crumbly earth and the original organic material is no longer recognizable.

With every mix of the pile, some ready-to-use compost should be available. This compost can be added to the soil before planting vegetables or trees, shrubs or flowers. It can also be used as mulch on the soil surface, or as a potting soil for container plants.

Completely cooked compost will slowly release nutrients into the soil, but don’t rely on it for fertilization. Your plants will still need to be fertilized appropriately.

For more on how to begin composting see University of Georgia Extension publication “Composting: Recycling Landscape Trimmings.”

Mary Carol Sheffield is the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension agricultural and natural resources agent in Paulding County. Mary Carol’s vegetable garden is small to match her children! They love to help her there and have their own kid size tools and gloves.

Happy gardening!

Begin shaping trees while they are young

November 30, 2015February 23, 2015 by Willie Chance

This info edited from Pruning ornamental plants in the landscape

Pruning deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the winter)

Trees are like children; training at an early age will influence how they develop. Many people are reluctant to prune a young tree, particularly when it is nothing more than a single stem or a few scrawny branches, but this is precisely when pruning should begin.

Ideally, deciduous shade trees (those that lose their leaves during the winter) and flowering trees should have one central trunk (leader) and five to eight strong lateral branches along the main trunk. Major limbs should begin about 5 feet above the ground and have good spacing around the main trunk.

Once the framework (trunk and main branches) of the tree is established, some annual maintenance pruning will be required. Each tree is different in its growth habit, vigor and pruning requirements, but there are some general considerations that may help direct your pruning decisions:

A major limb growing at a narrow angle to the main trunk (less than a 45-degree angle) is likely to develop a weak crotch and may split during heavy winds and ice loads. Remove branches that have narrow crotch angles.
Remove branches that grow inward or threaten to rub against nearby branches (Figure 10).

Figure 10. Remove suckers originating from below-ground roots (a), low-growing branches that interfere with maintenance (b), upright growing shoots or watersprouts (c), branches that grow inward or rub other branches (d), and branches that compete with the central leader for dominance (e).

Remove branches that grow downward from the main limbs which may interfere with mowing and other maintenance practices.
Prune branches damaged by insects, diseases, winter cold or storms below the damaged area. Prune branches of pear, pyracantha or loquat damaged by fireblight disease several inches below the infection. To prevent spreading the disease, sterilize pruning tools between cuts by dipping the blades in rubbing alcohol or a solution prepared from one part house-hold bleach to 10 parts water.
Trees such as Bradford pear, ornamental cherry, crabapple and ornamental plum form vigorous shoots (or suckers) at the base of the trunk and many upright succulent shoots (or watersprouts) along the main branches. These shoots starve the tree of valuable nutrients and detract from the tree’s overall appearance. Remove them while they are young.

Some trees develop upright shoots that compete with the main trunk for dominance. Remove these shoots if you want to maintain a conical or pyramidal growth habit.

Pruning evergreen trees

Broadleaf evergreens, like magnolias and hollies, usually require little or no pruning. In fact, most develop a naturally symmetric growth habit when left alone. Low-sweeping branches at ground level lend a natural southern charm to our landscapes.

You may want to prune some during the early life of the tree to balance the growth or to eliminate multiple trunks and/or multiple leader branches. Otherwise, routine annual pruning is not recommended.

For more information see Pruning ornamental plants in the landscape

Winter Insect Management Calendar

November 30, 2015February 21, 2015 by Willie Chance

Information supplied by Kris Braman & Will Hudson, UGA Entomology Department

As you visit landscapes, scout for these insect pests this winter. Notify your client when you find damaging levels of insects or mites.

Click on the insect names to find information to help you identify & manage these pests. Notes after the insect’s name explain what you should do for each insect if control is necessary.

This publication offers help to manage landscape pests. –

For pesticide recommendations, see the Pest Control Handbook.

Shrubs

Southern red mite (azalea, camellia, holly) – Scout and spray a miticide for these pests
Armored scales (boxwood, camellia, holly, gardenia, etc.) – Treat with dormant oil

Trees

Bagworms – Prune them out. These bags contain hundreds of eggs that may hatch next May
Maple borers – Prune out small branches with these pests. Improve health of the tree with proper care
Bagworm, John-H. Ghent, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org

Lecanium scale – Treat with dormant oils
Spruce spider mite – Spray for these pests
Twig pruners and twig girdlers – Prune and destroy dead branches, and pick up and destroy fallen branches to prevent insect emergence next year.

Lecanium scale, Andrew J. Boone, South Carolina Forestry Commission, Bugwood.org

Turf

Turf insect information

Please share this information with others in the landscape & turf industry. For more information:

Call your local Extension Agent at (800) ASK-UGA1 or

Locate your local Extension Office at http://www.caes.uga.edu/extension/statewide.cfm

Pest Management Handbook (Follow all label directions when using any pesticide) – www.ent.uga.edu/pmh/

What I Love about my Georgia Community Garden

November 30, 2015February 11, 2015 by Becky Griffin

A Valentine's Day Tribute to Vegetables by Georgia Gardeners

Just in time for Valentine’s Day we asked community gardeners across the state of Georgia what they love about their community gardens. We got some wonderful answers.

From a gardener in Kennesaw: “The biggest event of the year for ‘Plant a Row for the Hungry’ is sweet potato dig day. We all enjoy guessing the weight of our harvest.”

From a gardener in Marietta: “Hearing the kids talk about how much they love eating fresh vegetables – ‘kookombers!'” Someone from Sawyer Road Elementary says that she also loves the students’ enthusiasm.

From a gardener in Athens: “I love all the friends I have made at the garden.” Fellowship and friendship were common themes in replies to our question. Vicki from Green Meadows Community Garden wrote, “Meeting and gardening with so many different people I wouldn’t have met. I especially enjoy sharing laughs and knowledge with my fellow gardeners.” Patty Beckham from Spalding County says, “What I love about The Healthy Life Community Garden is the laughter and conversation among the gardeners as they harvest their beds, or plant new things. It is a joy to see people having fun as they work side by side in such a beautiful setting.”

From a gardener in Atlanta: “I love trying new foods. Our garden has gardeners from many different cultural backgrounds. We all grow different types of food. It is fun to try new things.” Gardeners in Stone Mountain also like the diversity of cultures and backgrounds represented in their garden.

Cherokee County gardeners like having a garden spot while not having to deal with the care of a lawn and other outdoor maintenance required when owning a yard. One gardener in Cobb County wrote, “It allows people a place to garden who may not have their own property where they could garden. It shows that gardening is possible for everyone to do.”

Other people enjoy the restorative aspects of gardening. Terri Carter of the Historic Mableton Community Garden wrote “I love Historic Mableton Garden because it is therapeutic. When I find myself sad and frazzled I can go to the garden and listen to the birds singing and all the bees buzzing around. I always feel better when I visit the garden. I leave with a feeling of peace and well being.” Debbie Ponder from the Reconnecting our Roots Community Garden also thinks along those lines. She said, It will give our families a place to spend time together – give back and enjoy being a family.”

If you have spent any time at all in a community garden you know it is about more than growing food. It is about learning, sharing, teaching, meeting other gardeners, and helping people. It is clear from the answers we got that gardens are loved for all of these reasons. Why do YOU love your community garden?

Happy Valentine’s Day!

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