Some Facts About Florida’s Genetically Modified Mosquitoes from an article in Entomology Today by Richard Levine
Some Facts About Florida’s Genetically Modified Mosquitoes
Landscape Alerts
Subscribe to the Georgia Farmers and Consumers Market Bulletin
See the original article here
Every two weeks more than 40,000 subscribers look forward to receiving the Georgia Farmers and Consumers Market Bulletin. Published by the Georgia Department of Agriculture, this periodical has been compared to everything from the Old Farmers’ Almanac to a version of Georgia’s own Southern Living. In the Market Bulletin you will find everything to from your fall planting guide, to the latest recipe. The Bulletin serves as a valuable resource for all things related to Georgia Agriculture, from mountains in Blue Ridge to the fields in South Georgia.
Market Bulletin History
Established in 1917, the publication began by providing free classified advertisements to enable Georgia farmers to market their products and to locate items necessary for their farming operations. Today the Market Bulletin has been expanded to include not only the free classified ads, but also articles of interest regarding the latest agriculture trends, innovations and products as well as southern lifestyle articles.
Throughout its history the Bulletin has been a vital resource to Georgia’s agricultural community. A subscriber summed up the publication by stating, “It is our link with yesterday, today, and tomorrow. The Bulletin is like an old friend who drops by to visit.”
Subscriptions for the print edition of the Bulletin are available at a cost of $10 per year. Online ONLY subscriptions are available for $5 per year.
How do we control wild garlic in lawns?
Wild Garlic Identification and Control In Home Lawns
Drs. Jialin Yu and Patrick McCullough, UGA
Wild garlic (Allium vineale L.) is a common weed in most turf areas throughout Georgia. It emerges from underground bulbs in late fall and grows through the winter and spring months. Wild garlic is a winter perennial plant that declines in early summer. This weed species is highly objectionable because it grows faster than cool-season turfgrasses after mowing and causes unsightly clumps in dormant warm-season turfgrasses during winter. Wild garlic has a similar appearance to wild onion (Allium canadense L.) but they are easily distinguishable by their leaves. Wild garlic has round hollow leaves and while wild onion has solid flat leaves.
Mowing is not effective for controlling wild garlic because bulbs or bulblets in the soil will continue to sprout and grow. In addition, the bulbs can remain viable in the soil for years before emergence. Mowing, however, can weaken the plants and help prevent the production of seeds.
Chemical control is similar for wild garlic and wild onion. Preemergence herbicides do not provide effective control. Multiple applications of postemergence herbicides over more than one season are typically required to control wild garlic. Wild garlic has slender and waxy leaves, which may reduce herbicide uptake. In Georgia, herbicides should be timed during winter or early spring before the formation of bulbs.
Synthetic auxin herbicides are typically the best herbicides to use in tall fescue lawns for wild garlic control. 2,4-D alone or in three-way mixtures with dicamba and mecoprop (Trimec, Triplet, Weed B Gone, etc.) effectively control wild garlic. These herbicides are safe in warm-season grasses during active growth but should not be applied during the spring green-up. Reduced rates are recommended when spraying to sensitive turfgrasses including centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass. Using PowerZone or SpeedZone, which include carfentrazone and three-way synthetic auxin herbicides, may improve wild garlic control in cold winter. However, turfgrass tolerance to these products may vary and temporary turfgrass yellowing may occur on certain turfgrass varieties.
Postemergence control may also be achieved with ALS-inhibitor herbicides. Imazaquin (Image) controls wild garlic on warm-season turfgrasses but should not be used during spring greenup or on newly planted or sprigged lawns. Imazaquin will severely injure fescue and ryegrass.
Metsulfuron (Manor, Blade, others) effectively controls a wide number of broadleaf weeds and wild garlic. Metsulfuron can be applied to tolerant warm-season turfgrasses including bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustine, and zoysiagrass. However, applications may temporarily inhibit greenup of centipedegrass and other species during spring transition. Metsulfuron should not be used in lawns with desirable bahiagrass populations. Woody ornamentals should not be planted in treated areas within one year following the metsulfuron application.
Glyphosate may effectively control wild garlic in dormant bermudagrass. To avoid injuring desired turfgrasses that are not completely dormant, spot treatments should be used on sensitive turfgrasses.
Table 1. Postemergence herbicides for wild garlic control.
| Herbicide | Trade name | Rate (Product/Acre) | Tolerant Turfgrass |
| 2,4-D | 2,4-D Amine,
Weedar 64, and others |
See label | Kentucky bluegrass, bermudagrass, centipedegrass, tall fescue, zoysiagrass |
| 2,4-D + dicamba + MCPP | Trimec, trimec Southern,
Triplet Weed B Gone and others |
See label | Kentucky bluegrass, bermudagrass, centipedegrass, tall fescue, St. Augustinegrass, zoysiagrass |
| carfentrazone, MCPA, MCPP, dicamba | Powerzone | 2-6 pt | Tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, red or fine fescue |
| carfentrazone, 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba | Speedzone | 2-5 pt | Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, colonial bentgrass, red or fine fescue, common bermudagrass, hybrid bermudagrass, zoysiagrass |
| imazaquin | Image | 8.6-11.4 oz | bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, zoysiagrass |
| metsulfuron | Manor, Blade and others | 0.33-1.0 oz | Kentucky bluegrass, bermudagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, zoysiagrass |
| glyphosate | Roundup Pro, Touchdown and others | 0.75 pt | bermudagrass (dormant) |
Winter is a good time to control Chinese privet and climbing fern
Information taken from this article in the Thomas County Ag News
Chinese privet (also called privet) is an invasive weed that escaped from cultivation. It is often found in landscapes and around old homesites, edges of fields and in low areas. According to Dr David Dickens, UGA Extension Forester, this time of the year, a foliar treatment is a good option to control privet.
Basal treatments of privet (spraying the stems) can be difficult because of the large number of branches. Dr Dicken’s says that dormant-season foliar sprays with 3-5% glyphosate provide effective control. Concentrations greater than 5% are not economical.
Take care to keep the spray off the foliage and young green bark of desirable plants. Since many plants are dormant at this time of year, there should be less effect on non-target plants.
Privet seeds are only viable for one year so in areas where they continues to germinate, the seeds are being introduced by birds or other means.
UGA Extension Forester, Dave Moorhead, points out that this 3 – 5 % glyphosate spray will also work in controlling another invasive weed – climbing fern.
See the original article here for more information.
Read and follow all labeling directions when using any pesticide!
Licensed pesticide applicator – do you ever wonder …
When does my license expire? To find out, visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site. Information on all applicators is here.
- How many hours do I need for recertification? (Note that you should have earned all your hours by 90 days before license expiration!) Visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site.
- Is my address correct with the GA Department of Agriculture? If not – you may not receive your new license renewal! Visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site.
- Where can I earn more hours towards certification? Visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site and look halfway down the page.
- How much does it cost to be recertified? Visit the GA Dept of Ag pesticide faq site.
- Can I renew my license online? Visit the GA Dept of Ag online licensing site.
To get answers to other questions, visit the GA Dept of Ag pesticide faq site or contact them at martha.loggins@agr.georgia.gov or call (404)-656-4958.
Success with Off-Season Sodding
Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, University of Georgia. This info is edited from a longer article which can be read here.
Dormant transplanting of trees and ornamentals in the Southeastern United States is a common practice. Warm-season turfgrass sod can also be successfully established during dormancy.
Recommendations for normal sodding also apply to off-season sodding.
- Successful transplanting is highly dependent on healthy sod, which is difficult to determine when the sod is dormant or overseeded.
- Rootzone preparation is critical for success. Loosen the soil to a depth of 6 inches by tilling before sodding.
- During site preparation prior to turf establishment is the best time to take a soil sample to determine pH and nutrient needs. Correction of soil pH and soil nutrient deficiencies is more effective when lime and fertilizer are incorporated into the soil before sodding.
- Next, level smooth and moisten the soil. The soil should be lightly watered, but not saturated. Ruts from foot traffic or equipment can occur when soils are too wet and are difficult to repair after the sod is laid.
- To prevent drying and potential cold injury of roots, install sod within 48 hours after harvest. This also allows the radiant heat from the earth to offer the sod some protection from cold injury when compared to turf exposed to the elements on a pallet.
- Sod should be laid tight and rolled to minimize creases. If creases are apparent after sodding, top dress the sod to fill low spots, conserve moisture and potentially retain heat near the soil surface.
- For best survival, avoid winter desiccation and low temperature injury. Dessication can be a significant problem since the warm dry winds of late winter and early spring increase the demand for water, but the combination of low soil temperatures and a limited root system will reduce the plant’s ability to obtain water.
- Direct low temperature injury can be a problem because the crowns, stolons and shallow rhizomes may be killed. Unfortunately, newly sodded turf lacks deep rhizomes and the expansive root system necessary to recover from winter stresses.
Research and practical experience has shown that warm-season turfgrasses may be successfully sodded during the off-season (October-April) when the grass is dormant or slowly growing. However, the cooler climates in and north of Atlanta may damage some turf species. More winter injury has been observed on zoysiagrass and centipedegrass as compared to bermudagrass sodded in the fall or winter.
- Overseeding sod with ryegrass may reduce warm season turf vigor and quality. While overseeded turf may look appealing during the winter months, during the spring the more heat-tolerant perennial ryegrasses can compete with the warm-season turf for water, nutrients and light. This can cause a poor spring transition and delayed green-up of the warm-season species. This is more common in ryegrass that has been heavily fertilized in the spring.
- To assist spring green-up and stimulate turfgrass growth, fertilize with 1.0 to 1.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet once night temperatures consistently reach the mid 60s F. Also to further encourage warm-season species growth, lower the mowing height. This practice opens the turfgrass canopy, allowing more sun to the permanent warm-season species while stressing the overseeded grass. Resume accepted maintenance practices once conditions are favorable for warm-season turfgrass growth.
In summary, successful sod transplanting depends on proper soil preparation, good soil-to-sod contact, avoiding low temperature injury, and most importantly – proper water management to prevent desiccation. For more information, see these resources or contact your local UGA Extension Office.
See the original article here which has more information
Managing Mistletoe in Trees
This is an excerpt from American Mistletoe Infection in Trees by Kim Coder, Professor of Tree Health Care, University of Georgia. For more complete information, including images, see the original publication here.
There are currently three mistletoe elimination interventions, each delivering varying results. The three interventions are pruning infected tree branches, shoot pruning of mistletoe, and/or using a labeled chemical spray (ethephon). Note any specific commercial product mentioned here does not represent an endorsement, nor a statement of efficaciousness, but a summary of marketplace information at the time this publication was prepared.
Tree Pruning – Infection site branch pruning is a common means of controlling mistletoe. A twig or branch infected with mistletoe can be pruned at the nearest healthy originating node below an infection site. Do not tip, top, or use internode cuts on a twig or branch. (See Figure 11 in original publication online). The target node for pruning should be at least 14 inches below an infection site. Mistletoe infection site elimination through branch pruning should be treated as a proper pruning (Figure 12) or reduction cut (Figure 13, Figure 14, Figure 15). Figures in the original publication show proper cuts to be made at the next lowest branch node greater than 14 inches below an infection. Years will be needed for a tree to regain structural integrity after extensive mistletoe removal pruning.
Mistletoe Shoot Removal – One traditional treatment for mistletoe infection is to knock off brittle mistletoe stems from tree branches. Mistletoe stems snap off easy and nearly flush with branch bark, usually at the remnants of the holdfast leaving the haustorial cushion behind still within a branch. This treatment immediately reduces water loss from a tree, and reduces mistletoe reproduction. Unfortunately, simply knocking off mistletoe stems does not eliminate infections because the endophytic part of the mistletoe remains intact. It usually takes 1-3 years before mistletoe shoots noticeably reappear after removal. Approximately 80% of all pruned mistletoe stems re-grow and while without green shoots, become completely parasitic on a tree. Periodic mistletoe shoot removal may be a viable treatment on main stem infections where pruning is not practical.
A few studies have used a combination of mistletoe shoot removal and blocking light to the haustorial cushion. Light has been excluded from haustoria by various wraps, sprays, and applications like heavy pruning paint applications, aluminum foil, tin disks, tarpaper, tape, caulking, or black plastic. It is critical to not injure tree tissues around an infection site with any topical coating or through affixing any covering. Mistletoe shoot pruning and light exclusion from an infection site was thought to prevent new mistletoe shoot formation and starve haustoria embedded in tree branches. Generally, these types of mistletoe shoot stub treatment have not been found to be completely effective and so, not recommended in most circumstances.
Chemical Spray – (Note that pesticide information was correct as of August 2008 – labeled uses can change. Check the pesticide label for the most recent information!) Ethephon [(2-chloroethyl) phosphonic acid] acts as a mistletoe shoot abscission and defoliator by generating ethylene, a plant growth regulator. For example in one study, a 2% ethephon treatment applied to mistletoe shoots in the dormant season defoliated shoots in 75 days with no resprouting for 225 days, and with no negative impacts on the host. This treatment did not significantly impact the haustoria and new sprouts from the haustorial cushion area formed within 1-2 years.
Currently there is a chemical product labeled for mistletoe shoot control which contains this shoot abscission chemical (ethephon). This product is sold under the name FLOREL brand growth regulator, a trademark of the Rhone-Poulenc AG Company, and distributed by Monterey Lawn & Garden Products, Fresno, CA. [EPA Registration Number 54705-8]. Information for this publication regarding this product came from the company’s web site (accessed 8/29/2008). All label information was derived from the electronic version of the chemical product label.
The product as currently formulated contains 3.9% ethephon (0.33 lbs ethephon per gallon). The chemical is a highly acidic, colorless, odorless, clear liquid. This labeled product “… will cause the abscission of … leafy mistletoe shoots in ornamental deciduous trees.” Technically, this product is not labeled for leafy mistletoe removal from evergreen trees. Note a wide variety of other concentrations and application methods have been used in past research papers.
This ethephon product should be sprayed directly on mistletoe clumps until foliage and stems are wet.
Timing is crucial to prevent tree damage. Spraying should be completed after Fall leaf drop and before tree bud burst in Spring when daytime temperatures are above 65oF. Mix the product following all label directions. For example, under current label mixing instructions, mix one quart of product in 2 gallons of water for 5400 ppm concentration. Use of a surfactant is recommended. Spray only when no rain is forecast for a minimum of 24 hours. Return to and re-spray large clumps of mistletoe in one week. Because only the mistletoe shoot is impacted, retreat every 3-4 years. Mix and spray this product immediately. Do not store the mixed spray liquid for more than a few hours. Care is needed to prevent over-spray from staining or etching hardscapes or damaging painted surfaces.
Remember to carefully read and review the product label for your personal safety, safety of other living things, and the legal context of product use. Do not use this product near individuals or habitats of protected species, some of which could be around the tree site or on the tree exterior.
See the entire publication Mistletoe Infection in Trees here.
Image credit – Joy Viola, Northeastern University, Bugwood.org
Getting the most from pansies and violas in the landscape
Info is taken from the Georgia Guide for Production and Landscape Use of Pansy and Violas by Paul A. Thomas and Jean L. Williams-Woodward, Extension Specialists, UGA College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.
Here are some tips on care for pansies and violas in the landscape from this publication.
- Maintain a soil pH of 5.4 to 6.2. If your pH rises above 6.2, you will run into nutritional and disease problems. If your pH falls below 5.2, you risk nutrient toxicities.
Use fertilizer containing the nitrate (NO3) form of nitrogen (as opposed to ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4) or urea) Nitrate is taken up more readily in cold weather, and it does not cause as much stretching in hot weather. Products such as 15-2-20, and other products especially formulated for pansies have enhanced nitrate over ammoniacal nitrogen ratios, possess low phosphorus, and generally have the fertilizer elements in the right ratios for pansies.
- If you use calcium nitrate [Ca(NO3)2] as a nitrogen source without added boron, you run the risk of saturating the plant with calcium. This abundance of calcium can cause a boron deficiency since calcium blocks boron uptake by the roots. Frequent irrigation and use of less-expensive fertilizers without balanced trace elements can also cause serious boron imbalances. A boron deficiency appears as tightly bunched up new growth that eventually leads to deformed leaves and poor flowering. If you need to supplement Boron, use a drench by mixing 0.85g borax (11%B) or 0.48g Solubor(20%B) per 100 gallons of water.
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Boron deficiency in pansies Carefully monitor irrigation and keep pansies slightly on the “dry side of moist soil” to “harden” growth prior to very cold weather. If your beds are continuously wet, even in periods of normal rainfall, consider adding organic matter and other materials next year to increase drainage for the next pansy season.
- Pine straw, applied 2 to 4 inches thick, over the top of the entire bed (plants and all) during extreme cold is one of the best ways to save a pansy planting from freeze injury. This helps trap heat in the soil, prevents it from freezing and greatly reduces plant exposure to cold and desiccating wind. Carefully rake the pine straw off the bed when the cold weather passes.
- These freeze protection measures are generally taken only when the air temperature is expected to drop below 20 degrees F for a considerable length of time, and when dry, cold winds accompany the weather change, and especially when the soil is in jeopardy of freezing solid. Healthy plants can generally survive short periods of temperatures down to the single digits without protection.
The publication also includes information on diseases, in-depth soil and plant fertility info and other good sources of information. See the entire publication.
Protect landscape plants from winter temperatures
Frank Watson is the University of Georgia Extension Agent in Wilkes County
Landscape plants get plenty of attention during the summer, but they need protection during Georgia’s winter months. Rather than trying to keep plants warm, gardeners should help protect plants from wind, snow, ice, drastic soil temperature changes and heat from the sun on cold days.
Reducing water loss can protect evergreen plants. All plants transpire, or lose, water through their leaves. Evergreens continue to lose water during the winter, so the plant’s roots must be able take up moisture.
Homeowners are more conscious of watering shrubs during the summer and often neglect to water plants during cold weather. Roots absorb moisture when it’s available, but during a dry period or even when the ground is frozen, moisture isn’t available. The plants continue to transpire water, drawing moisture from living cells. If too much water is released, the plant’s cells die, causing the plant’s leaves to turn brown and die.
High winds and warm sunshine on cold days result in a higher rate of water transpiration. Protection can be offered by relocating susceptible plants to a sheltered location. Also, provide them additional water during dry periods or prior to expected hard freezes.
An additional layer of mulch is also recommended during winter months after the first freeze. Mulch will reduce water loss from the soil, aid in transpiration and reduce “heaving” of the soil as the ground freezes and thaws. Soil heaving, or frost heaving, occurs when soil swells during freezing conditions and ice grows towards the soil’s surface.
To protect plants from cold damage, University of Georgia Extension horticulturists recommend following these six steps:
- Plant only varieties that are hardy for the area. Buy plants using the USDA hardiness zones.
- Given a choice, plant less-hardy plants in the highest part of the landscape. Cold air settles in the lowest area.
- Protect plants from cold wind with a fence or a tall evergreen hedge of trees or shrubs.
- Shade plants from direct winter sun, especially early morning sunshine. Plants that freeze slowly and thaw slowly will be damaged the least. The south side of the house, where there is no shade, is the worse place to plant tender plants.
- Stop feeding plants quickly available nitrogen in late summer to allow them to “harden off” before cold weather arrives.
- Plastic covering provides excellent protection. Build a frame over the plant or plants, cover them with plastic and secure the plastic to the ground with soil. Shade plastic to keep temperatures from building up inside. Plastic traps moisture and warm air as it radiates from the soil and blocks cold winds. Do not allow the plastic to touch plants.
For more information on how to care for ornamental plants in the winter, see the UGA circular Winter Protection of Ornamental Plants.
The Turfgrass Industry is Losing Two Important Products for Weed Management
Patrick McCullough, Associate Professor, UGA
The turfgrass industry is officially losing Illoxan (diclofop-methyl) and Embark (mefluidide) in 2015. These are two important tools in weed control programs with no comparable replacements. The loss of these materials has significant implications for resistance management, seedhead control, and efficiently managing high quality turfgrass.
Illoxan (diclofop-methyl)
Bayer will not be reregistering Illoxan. Unfortunately, the return on Illoxan sales was not worth the expenses of reregistration for the company. Illoxan is a postemergence herbicide used for goosegrass control in bermudagrass golf courses. This herbicide is one of the most effective chemistries for controlling goosegrass in greens, tees, fairways, and roughs. More importantly, Illoxan is the only ACCase inhibitor used in bermudagrass turf and the loss of this mechanism of action may have significant consequences for resistance management. Goosegrass resistance to ALS inhibitor herbicides, specifically foramsulfuron (Revolver), is becoming more widespread throughout the Southern U.S. Turf managers also have restrictions on MSMA use on golf courses that limit the ability to effectively control goosegrass and other weeds.
Illoxan is an excellent herbicide for controlling goosegrass at most growth stages in bermudagrass and also offered an alternative mechanism of action in resistance management programs. The implications of losing Illoxan in golf course management will emphasize the need for investments in good preemergence herbicides for goosegrass control. Dinitroanilines (DNAs) like prodiamine (Barricade, others) and pendimethalin (Pendulum, others) have potential to control goosegrass but results are often erratic. Resistance to DNA herbicides has also developed in goosegrass populations and alternative chemistries may be needed for effective control. From our research at UGA, Ronstar (oxadiazon) and Specticle (indaziflam) have consistently been the best preemergence herbicides for controlling goosegrass in bermudagrass turf. Other herbicides such as Dismiss (sulfentrazone), Sureguard (flumioxazin), and Tower (dimethenamid) have potential to control goosegrass but our results have been inconsistent over years.
With the loss of Illoxan, bermudagrass managers will only have Revolver (foramsulfuron), Tribute Total (foramsulfuron + thiencarbazone + halosulfuron) and Dismiss (sulfentrazone) available for postemergence goosegrass control. While these herbicides may control immature goosegrass, single applications often do not control tillered plants. Revolver and Tribute Total are both ALS inhibitors and will not effectively control mature goosegrass or resistant biotypes.
Turf managers may also explore the use of MSMA + Sencor (metribuzin) for goosegrass control but these treatments can be very injurious to bermudagrass in summer and may require sequential applications. Moreover, superintendents in Georgia are limited to one application of MSMA per year, not to exceed 25% of the total golf course. Turfgrass managers must understand that losing Illoxan may limit their ability to control goosegrass and may have serious repercussions in resistance management programs.
Embark (mefluidide)
Embark is a growth regulator primarily used for annual bluegrass seedhead control in turfgrass management. Earlier this year there was controversy around the future manufacturing of mefluidide, the active ingredient in Embark, and if this product would be available after 2015. PBI Gordon explored opportunities inside and outside of the U.S. to have mefluidide manufactured and formulated to make new Embark products. The opportunity to make new material was very costly for the company and PBI Gordon has decided not to pursue this investment. The Embark 2S product will be pulled completely, and there will be new Embark T & O 0.2L (essentially a dilution of the 2S) released until the current supply is gone. Once the existing inventory has been sold, Embark will no longer be available from PBI Gordon.
Embark is a growth regulator that has a long history of use in turfgrass and roadside management. Embark is the only seedhead inhibiting growth regulator available for use in warm and cool-season turfgrasses. Turfgrass managers primarily use this chemistry for seedhead control on annual bluegrass, tall fescue, bermudagrass, and other turfgrass species. Proxy (ethephon) is the other seedhead inhibitor available for turfgrass. It is labeled only for cool-season grasses but may be applied to certain zoysiagrass varieties. Proxy causes leaf chlorosis, stand thinning, and quality reductions in bermudagrass, seashore paspalum, and other warm-season species. Other PGRs like Primo (trinexapac-ethyl) or Trimmit (pacloburazol) may provide partial seedhead control but are generally less effective than Embark and Proxy.
Current research efforts at UGA include evaluating seasonal application timing of PGRs to minimize injury and maximize seedhead control on warm-season grasses. We are also evaluating alternatives to Embark, primarily ALS inhibitor herbicides, for seedhead management in bermudagrass turf. Embark is the most popular PGR for annual bluegrass seedhead control in bentgrass greens in Georgia and further research will be needed with Proxy, Proxy + Primo, and other compounds to replace Embark.
Patrick McCullough is an associate professor and extension specialist in turf weed science at the University of Georgia in Griffin.