Landscape Alerts

Landscape Popquiz!

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Spot anthracnose on dogwood

Jean Williams-Woodward, UGA Plant Pathologist

Spot anthracnose of dogwoodSpot anthracnose of dogwood, not to be confused with the lethal canker disease, dogwood anthracnose, is common on flowering dogwoods in the Spring. Spot anthracnose, caused by the fungus, Elsinoe corni, causes small, circular, reddish spots on the bracts and leaves. Severe infection can cause leaf and bract distortion.

Spot anthracnose is mostly an aesthetic disease. It will not kill the trees or significantly affect tree growth. Once spots are seen, it is too late to manage the disease with fungicides. Fungicides are generally not needed nor recommended unless in nurseries where tree’s aesthetics can affect sales. Fungicides needed to be applied at bud break to reduce infection and disease development.

Controlling Annual Bluegrass and Lespedeza in Turf

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Helpful publications from Patrick McCullough, UGA Extension Weed Specialist

Annual Bluegrass Control in Residential Turfgrass

Annual bluegrass (Poa annua L.) is a problematic winter annual weed in residential turf. Compared to most turfgrasses, annual bluegrass has a lighter green color, coarser leaf texture and produces unsightly seedheads.

Contrary to its name, both annual (live for one season) and perennial (live for many seasons) biotypes of annual bluegrass may be found in turf.

This publication describes methods of control for annual bluegrass in residential turfgrass lawns.

To see the entire publication visit this site.

 

Annual Bluegrass Control in Non-Residential Commercial Turfgrass

 

Lespedeza Identification and Control in Turfgrass

Common lespedeza is a freely-branched summer annual legume that is a problematic weed in lawns and other turf areas. Common lespedeza, also known as Japanese clover or annual lespedeza, has three smooth, oblong leaflets with parallel veins that are nearly perpendicular to the midvein. As common lespedeza matures, the stems harden and become woody, which is attributed to persistence and competition with turfgrasses in late summer. Flowers are pink to purple and present in the leaf axils. Other lespedeza species may also be found as weeds in turf but common lespedeza is the primary species in Georgia.

Lespedeza McCullough
Lespedeza, Patrick McCullough, UGA

This publication describes ways to identify and control lespedeza in turfgrass, including:

To see the entire publication visit this site.

 

Here are other UGA turf weed control publications:

 

Climate Outlook for 2014 Growing Season and Winter 2014-15

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Pam Knox, UGA Climatologist

Taken from Climate and Agriculture in the Southeast (CASE)

Following a very wet 2013, this year has gotten off to a drier than usual start, although generally soil moisture has been very good until recently. In the last few weeks, abnormally dry conditions have started to creep into the mountains in northeast Georgia as well as scattered locations in the west central and southwest parts of the state.  However, a major drought is not expected to develop this growing season.

Short-term forecasts out to two weeks indicate that some dryness may continue in southern Georgia but north Georgia is likely to be wetter. In the one to three month period that includes April through June, there are equal chances for below, near, and above normal rainfall, since accurate predictions are very hard in neutral conditions when no El Nino or La Nina are occurring. However, following recent climate trends, temperatures have an increased chance of above normal conditions for the next few months.

NOAA has now issued an El Nino watch for the potential development of an El Nino in the eastern Pacific Ocean by mid to late summer. When an El Nino occurs, we commonly see wet and cool conditions in south Georgia associated with the persistent presence of a subtropical jet stream above the earth’s surface which directs weather systems right across Georgia.

At this time, NOAA is predicting a 50 percent chance of an El Nino developing by midsummer.  If one does occur, then we can expect next winter to be cooler and wetter than normal in 2014-2015. Some scientists believe that this is likely to be a stronger than usual El Nino based on current ocean temperatures. If that happens, the cool and wet conditions will extend throughout Georgia instead of just affecting the southern part of the state.

One impact of El Nino on Georgia’s climate is a reduction in the number of hurricanes in the Atlantic Ocean. However, even in a quiet season, a single direct hit by a hurricane or tropical storm can cause significant damage to the area it passes over. Most other effects of El Nino are seen in the winter when the El Nino is strongest.

Other impacts from El Nino include excessive cloudiness, which reduces solar radiation and increases drying times for hay as well as enhancing the development of fungal diseases. Low-lying areas are likely to be soggy and hard to work due to the persistent rain. Cooler temperatures and high humidity may also affect the development of pecans and Vidalia onions, reducing pecan yields as well as the average size of the onions. In general, El Nino winters are not associated with unusually late frost dates, however.  Runoff may also increase, leading to increased erosion or movement of surface applications into streams.

You can find more information about the impacts of El Nino on climate patterns and crop yields at www.agroclimate.org.

Check out the UGA College of Agriculture & Environmental Sciences Social Media

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Social media CAESDo you like Facebook, Twitter, YouTube or blogs? If so, the UGA College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences may have something of interest for you!

The college has a list of many of its social media sites all in one location! Visit this site to see a list of the College’s many social media or blog sites.

Examples of information you can find include:

  • Your local Extension Office Facebook site
  • Twitter account featuring new and revised college publications (and research articles)
  • Blogs (online articles) for the landscape, pest control, row crop, and greenhouse industries
  • The UGA Trial Gardens or Coastal Botanical Gardens Twitter sites
  • Facebook pages covering invasive species, forage production, the Griffin Research and Education Garden and more …

Check out the college’s list of social media sites today at http://extension.uga.edu/about/social-media/

 

Spring & fall are good times to control fire ants!

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Original story by Sarah Lewis, student writer with the UGA College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences

“April and September are good times to apply baits, once at the start of the season and toward the end to help control before they come back in the spring,” said Will Hudson, a professor with the UGA College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

Fire ants are most active in warm weather. Fire ant season can last 10 to 11 months out of the year in the most southern areas of Georgia. Controlling ant colonies before they produce a mound is important. However, Hudson says that once a treatment program is in effect, timing is not all that important.

Baits and sprays

The general rule of thumb is if the area is one acre or less, don’t use baits. Re-infestation is more likely from colonies outside of the yard when baits are used.

One important thing to remember is the difference between ‘no mounds’ and ‘no ants.’ “There is a difference between eliminating ants and controlling them,” he said. “Baits do not eliminate ants because there is no residual control. A new colony can still come in and be unaffected by the bait laid down prior to their arrival.”

To eliminate mounds completely, apply baits every six months, Hudson said. “There will be invasion in the meantime, and you will still have fire ants, just not enough to create a new mound,” he said.

Hudson recommends treating lawns smaller than an acre with a registered insecticide in a liquid solution. This should rid the lawn of fire ants for one to three months. If you choose a granular product, measure carefully to be sure you apply the correct amount of material and get good, even coverage, he said.

The least effective treatment option for most people is individual mound treatments, according to Hudson. Treating mounds in general is going to be an exercise of frustration, and killing an entire colony by treating just the mound is a challenge, he said.

Minimal impact

Baits are considered to have minimal environmental effects for those who chose not to use hazardous chemicals. Once the bait is out, there is hardly anytime for anything to come in contact with it before the ants get to it.

Nonchemical options include using steam or boiling water. “We recommend using boiling water to treat a mound near an area such as a well where you do not want any chemicals,” Hudson said. “Using hot water is very effective, but the problem is you are not always able to boil the water right next to the area you want treated.” Carrying the boiling water can inflict serious burns, so extreme caution should be used when treating with this method.

There are products on the market that are approved by the Environmental Protection Agency and labeled as organic. Hudson says organic designation is a “slippery” definition. There is an official USDA certification and many states have their own set of regulations when labeling a product as organic. This labeling can mean the product is either a natural product or derived from a natural product. “While there are a few products that qualify as organic, with most baits the actual amount of pesticide applied is minimal,” he said.

Realistic expectations

Hudson says to be careful when choosing a product because the labels can be confusing, even deceptive, and it is difficult to make the right choice. For assistance in selecting a product, contact your local UGA Cooperative Extension agent.

“The most important thing to remember is that you need to be realistic in your expectations,” Hudson said. “If you are treating mounds, you need to be prepared. You are going to chase the mounds around the yard.”

For more information on selecting a control measure:

UGA Pest Management Handbook

Fire Ant Control Materials

Managing Imported Fire Ants in Urban Areas

Georgia ReLeaf Funding Available

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Trees in fogThe Georgia Urban Forest Council, in cooperation with the Georgia Forestry Commission, established the Georgia ReLeaf  program to bring urban forests in storm-struck communities back to life by making funds available for planting trees in public areas such as parks, schools, main streets, and business districts.

This year, the Georgia ReLeaf program is also making funding available for tree planting projects benefiting or involving our military veterans. For more information about the funding process and to download an application, click here.

Winter near average for Georgia in spite of some cold mornings

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Pam Knox serves as University of Georgia Agricultural Climatologist with UGA Department of Crop and Soil Science

Released March 20, 2014. See original article here.

Despite some bone-chilling days with single digit lows, Georgia’s winter was about average in both temperature and precipitation.

This winter, which climatologists define as Dec. 1 to Feb. 28, was actually the 57th coldest out of the past 119 winter seasons. This means that 56 years were colder than the 2013-2014 winter season and 62 were warmer. This places it just about right in the middle.

Georgia’s winter precipitation was ranked 67th out of 119 years, which means that 66 years were drier and 52 were wetter.

The near-normal average temperatures this year were the result of a combination of the scattered days with above normal or record-high temperatures that some parts of the state experienced and the periods of frigid weather that brought very cold temperatures to northern parts of the state.

This was the first time that such cold temperatures have been observed in Georgia since the winter of 1995-1996. Periods of very cold weather were more frequent in the 20th century than in recent years.

The winter conditions provided plentiful chill hours for peaches across Georgia. The fruit should be in great shape as long as a late frost after blooming does not hurt the development of the peaches this spring.

Cold conditions have reduced the average size of Vidalia onions this year as well as cut stands by up to 25 percent. Overall, however, supplies are considered to be very good.

Lawns in north Georgia with warm-season grasses like centipede may see some damage due to some of the extreme low temperatures.

Some insect pests may have been cut back by the cold weather, but many are well adapted to shelter in the coldest conditions and the rapid swings in temperature may not have provided long enough cold conditions to cause a significant dent in their populations.

Other impacts from this winter’s weather include the damage to timber in the mid-February ice storm. The ice caused widespread power outages and tree damage to north central and eastern Georgia, particularly in the Augusta area.

While the state is starting to shake off the chill of the last few months, Georgians can expect cooler and wetter than normal conditions across Georgia for the next two weeks, based on predictions from the Climate Prediction Center, NOAA.

Gardeners should also remember that a late frost is still possible and perhaps more likely than in other years because the state is in a neutral weather pattern — one not affected by La Nina or El Nino.

Successful seasonal color beds

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Planning before planting seasonal color beds can improve their impact & quality and reduce the potential for problems. This is a list of some UGA publications that may be helpful in planning and planting successful color beds.

Crop Rotation and Cultural Practices Help Reduce Diseases in Seasonal Color Beds by Bodie Pennisi, Department of Horticulture and Jean Woodward, Department of Plant Pathology

This publication explains how to effectively use crop rotation and cultural practices to reduce disease incidence in seasonal color beds.

Success with Herbaceous Perennials by Bodie Pennisi, Paul Thomas and Sheri Dorn – Department of Horticulture.

This publication is intended to provide the basics of perennial plant biology, ideas on design and installation, and information on cultivation and maintenance of perennial beds.

Color wheelColor Theory by Matthew Chappell1, Brad Davis2, Bodie Pennisi1 and Merritt Sullivan3  – 1 Department of Horticulture, 2 Department of Landscape Architecture, 3 Dept of Horticulture B.S. Student.

This publication explores color relationships in the landscape, ways of seeing plants in terms of color, and various ways to use color successfully in plant selection and landscape design and composition.

To find other helpful UGA publications, visit http://www.caes.uga.edu/publications/

Landscapes may be more at risk of a late frost this year

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Merritt Melancon is a news editor with the UGA College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences

The northern and southern halves of the state vary slightly, but Georgia’s last frost typically falls between mid March and mid April. On some years the last frost has hit as late as May. University of Georgia Extension climatologist Pam Knox believes the current neutral weather pattern — one not affected by La Nina or El Nino — could put Georgia at greater risk for one of these rogue late frosts.

There’s no way for a gardener to predict or stop a late frost from hitting after they’ve put in transplants or started counting sprouts, but they can be prepared, said Paul Thomas, a UGA Extension horticulturist. Since no one knows when a frosty night might hit, gardeners should have a frost tool kit and game plan ready.

“Buying or collecting frost reduction materials prior to the frost and pre-positioning them close to the plants you want to protect is very important,” Thomas said.

One of the most effective ways to shield plants from frost is to cover them with any of a wide variety of materials, from high quality frost–reduction fabric, to blankets and sheets, to newspapers, baskets and straw.

For small shrubs such as Gardenia, a supply of old comforters or heavy blankets — maybe purchased from a local thrift store — will allow you to protect your plants from that first frost without spending much money. Covering plants with a heavier blanket will protect them more than if they’re covered with a simple sheet, Thomas said.

In addition to blankets, simple mulches — like dead leaves or grain straw — are some of the best materials for protecting small plants and flowers. For smaller plants such as young vegetable starts, lighter weight material like pine straw works great if enough is placed over the plants.

Gardeners can completely bury their newly flowering shrubs or tender garden seedlings in either leaves or straw, and then uncover them after the weather warms back up. The flowers and seedlings will be fine, he said.

Never use plastic sheeting to cover plants because plastic can trap too much heat. When the day starts to warm up, the plants can actually cook or scorch under the covering. “By 10:00 a.m. you can have significant damage to grass and young plants due to how quickly it can heat up under that plastic,” Thomas said.

It’s best to cover plants before sunset to retain some of the heat that is trapped in the soil and remove the coverings in the morning just after sunrise to prevent the plants from being scorched. The exception would be if it’s cloudy, snowing or icy.

Thomas also recommends having a collection of wooden garden stakes on hand. Place the stakes throughout your vegetable patch in order to suspend blankets over tender seedlings or delicate flowers. The stakes will prevent snow or rain soaked blankets from crushing your plants, Thomas said.

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