I was asked to rerun this popular post on vegetable varieities from 2015. So by popular demand….
One major step towards success in a community or school garden is to start with varieties that are proven in Georgia. As you may have experienced, some varieties of vegetables that work well in a large farm setting don’t always do well in a school or community garden setting.
Tomatoes growing at the Reconnecting Our Roots Garden in Cobb County
Happily we have recommendations from Robert Westerfield and UGA’s Research and Education Garden specifically for smaller, intensive gardens. These varieties should be easy to find in big box retailers as well as feed and seed stores:
Tomatoes – Salad or Cherry: Juliet, Maskotka, Cherry Falls, Tumbling Tom
Tomatoes – Determinate: Celebrity, Rutgers Select, Amelia, Bush Beefsteak, Super Bush Hybrid, Roma
Tomatoes – Indeterminate: Beefmaster Hybrid, Delicious, Princess Hybrid, Big Beef
Peppers: Big Bertha, Cubanelle, Giant Marconi, Banana Sweet,
Jalapeno
Eggplant: Patio Baby Hybrid, Black Beauty, Ichiban
If you haven’t grown radishes in your garden, you should. They are the underappreciated cool-season vegetable and perfect for raised beds in the community or school garden. What radishes have going for them:
They mature quickly, sometimes as short as 28 days!
They are nutritious – full of vitamin C, vitamin K and B6
They are easy to grow
Radishes also come in many shapes and sizes. The variety “Watermelon” is large, think soft ball size, but the traditional “Cherry Bell” is smaller. “Icicle” is long and white, almost like a small carrot. Visit your local feed-and-seed stores to see what varieties they have available or order from one the seed catalog companies.
Planting
The seeds are small but easy to plant in a prepared bed with plenty of drainage:
After the seeds are spread, cover with 1/4 -1/2 inch of soil and tamp down the soil using a light touch. This ensures good seed to soil contact.
Finally, cover with mulch to keep the soil temperature and moisture levels even. Water in and keep the soil slightly moist until the seeds germinate. Thin using scissors, not pulling up seedlings.
Start looking at your radish recipes because your crop will come in quickly!
I have been asked to re-run this wonderful post from seed starting expert, Amy Whitney, of Cobb Extension. It is time to start your indoor seeds. Amy gives us all the details….
What you’ll need:
Seeds
Planting medium
A container with a clear lid
Light source
Time
Which seeds can I start now?
Seeds that are good to start ahead of the usual spring planting typically are those that have a long time-to-maturity, like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. Other seeds to start indoors include many kinds of greens.
Will any potting mix work?
Seed tray the pellets made of peat moss. The pellets expand with the addition of water. – photo by Amy Whitney
Regular potting mix is not the best choice; instead, choose a seedling starter mix. Such a mix will be finely textured, so that small seeds don’t wash too deep down into the mix. Also, it should be sterile (or nearly sterile), so the damping-off fungus that attacks seedlings is less likely to strike. Seedling starter mix can be purchased in small bags to use in your own containers or as flat pellets of either peat moss or coconut coir that inflate as they absorb water.
Why does the container need a lid?
Jiffy seed tray with lid. Labeling your seed trays with the type of seed planted and date of planting is helpful.- photo by Amy Whitney
Seeds need to be kept evenly moist but not soggy. If seeds are too wet, they tend to rot rather than germinate, and if they are too dry they won’t germinate, either. The lid helps moderate moisture levels in the container. The lid should be clear to let light in for the growing seedlings. As the seedlings grow taller, the lid will need to be removed.
If the seedlings are in a very sunny window, the “greenhouse” lid may allow too much heat to build up inside the container. Check your seedlings to make sure the young plants don’t end up being cooked under the lid!
Trays and flats especially designed for starting seeds can be purchased at most garden supply stores, but “clamshell” type containers that previously may have held salad greens from a grocery store can also work, after a few holes have been made in the bottom half to allow excess water to drain away.
How much light will my plants need?
After germination has occurred and seedlings have pushed their seed leaves up above the soil level, a strong light source will be needed. A very sunny window is good, but more hours of light would be better. A fluorescent light kept a couple of inches above the tops of the plants for 14-16 hours each day can help provide the needed light.
This sounds easy. When can I start?
You can count back the correct number of weeks for your seeds from the last expected frost date in your area. As an example, a seed that should be started 6-8 weeks before the last frost in an area with an average last frost date of April 10 should be started between February 11th and 25th. Most seed packets include the information about when to start seeds indoors.
Your seed-starting flats or containers will also need to be kept at an adequate temperature range for best germination results. The good news is that the same temperatures that work for most humans, 65-75 degrees F, are also good for seed germination and seedling growth!
As the seedlings mature, they will need to be transferred to more-roomy accommodations (new pots!) with fresh potting mix, to encourage further growth and development.
For additional information and expanded explanations of the above steps, check out UGA’s new guide to seed starting, “Starting Plants from Seed for the Home Gardener” by Horticulturists Sheri Dorn and Bodie Pennisi. UGA’s “Home Garden Transplants,” by UGA Horticulturists Wayne McLauren, Darbie M. Granberry, and W.O. Chance, is another great source of helpful information. Of course, your local UGA Extension Agent is always ready to help!
Amy is a Horticulture Program Assistant for Cobb Extension. She loves seed saving and saves seeds from a heirloom tomato given to her by a guy she met at a seed rack in Home Depot many years ago. Amy will talk plants with anyone! Thanks again Amy. Great information.
Since we have had ample rainfall and moderate temperatures in Georgia, it is the perfect time to think about cool-season food gardening. We are fortunate enough to have Paul Pugliese of UGA Extension give us some tips! Paul writes….
Late January and early February are great times to plant cool-season vegetables. Many gardeners gave up on planting a fall vegetable garden last year due to the exceptional drought conditions. However, the great thing about living in Georgia is that we have a second window of opportunity in late winter to plant a number of cool-season vegetables.
Lettuce in the Trustees Garden, Savannah, Georgia
Cool-season vegetables include beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, collards, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, English peas, Irish potatoes, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard and turnips. You can even start planting asparagus roots, asparagus is a perennial plant that takes two years to mature and start producing harvestable spears.
Most cool-season vegetables, if planted around the first week of February, will be ready to harvest around early April or May, depending on the variety. By the time you harvest these cool-season vegetables, you can turn the garden over for planting your summer vegetables at the ideal time.
Cool-season vegetables are generally very fast growing and are easily planted by direct seeding into the soil. There is no reason to purchase or grow transplants this time of year, since the soil moisture and weather conditions are ideal for seed germination. Transplants are more often used in fall planting, since it’s usually too hot and too dry in late summer or early fall for cool-season vegetables to grow from seed.
Most cool-season vegetables are medium to heavy feeders, which means they will require around 20 to 30 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 1,000 square feet of garden space. Ideally, this fertilizer should be divided into two or three applications (i.e., 10 pounds of fertilizer at planting and at four- to six-week intervals). Because most cool-season vegetables grow close to the ground and have direct contact with the soil, avoid using fertilizer sources such as animal manure that could increase the chance of contamination by foodborne pathogens.
It’s also a good idea to do a soil test to determine your soil pH and how much lime you need to apply, if any, to adjust the soil pH. (For more information about submitting samples to the University of Georgia for soil testing, call your local UGA Cooperative Extension office.)
A pH of 6.0 to 6.5 is recommended for all vegetables except Irish potatoes, which require a pH of 5.0 to 6.0. If you decide to grow Irish potatoes, dedicate a separate garden space solely to them due to their unique pH requirement.
As with all vegetables, try to select a garden site that receives at least eight to 10 hours of sunlight a day. Select a location that is conveniently located near your home and a water supply. The soil should have a good texture and be well drained. Most of the leafy greens and some of the cole crops – those in the Brassica family – can also be grown in containers due to their smaller size.
Adding a mulch of wheat straw, leaves, compost or pine straw will help conserve soil moisture, control weeds and reduce cultivation. Apply enough mulch to have 2 to 4 inches after settling. Newspaper can also be used as a mulch. Place newspapers two to three layers thick around plants. Apply 3 inches of straw or compost on top of the newspaper. Avoid using hay bales for mulch, since most hay fields are sprayed with herbicides for weed control that could carry over into your garden and kill your plants.
For more information on seeding rates, recommended varieties and row spacing, check out UGA Extension publications “Vegetable Gardening in Georgia” and “Home Gardening” online at extension.uga.edu/publications. More detailed information on home gardening potatoes, lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus, Swiss chard, Brussels sprouts and rutabagas can also be found on the publications website.
Paul Pugliese is the ANR agent for Bartow County Cooperative Extension. He has extensive experience in vegetable gardening as he grows all types of vegetables on his farm in Cartersville, Georgia.
Do you want to grow beautiful orange pumpkins for Halloween? But, after years of seeing your crop succumb to disease you have become discouraged. And, after learning that most of the pumpkins you see for sale at church pumpkin patches are grown in New Mexico (think LOW humidity), you have given up. Well, I have great news for you!
University of Georgia researchers have developed and released a new pumpkin variety bred especially to handle Georgia’s summer climate. Orange Bulldog was developed by UGA researchers from germplasm collected in South America. It shows greater resistance to viruses than conventional pumpkins. The vines show resistance to powdery mildew and downy mildew. This is really great news for Georgia gardeners!
Orange Bulldog Pumpkin. Photo credit: UGA
The pumpkins average about 10 pounds. Most have an internal cavity which is perfect for carving. The color ranges from a salmon color to a burnt orange. And, seeds were readily available for 2016 and should be for 2017.
Choose the mild weather during this period to plant or transplant the following: beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, collards, lettuce, mustard, onions, radishes, spinach and turnips. Plant your second planting of fall crops such as collards, turnips, cabbage, mustard and kale. For variety recommendations see the Vegetable Planting Chart.
There is still time to plant lettuce and other cool-season greens.
2. Refurbish mulch to control weeds, and start adding leaves and other materials for the compost pile. Store your manure under cover to prevent leaching of nutrients.
3. Water deeply and thoroughly to prevent drought stress. Pay special attention to new transplants.
Seedlings will probably need supplemental water during October, which is usually one of our driest months.
4. Harvest mature green peppers and tomatoes before frost gets them — it may not come until November, but be ready.
5. Harvest herbs and dry them in a cool, dry place.
What is the number one way to combat an insect problem in the garden? Know your pest. The answer is that simple. Correct identification of the pest is essential in any type of garden management.
Aphids on lettuce
Step #1 Correct identification
Sadly, I have often seen gardeners find signs of a pest and immediately reach for an overall insecticide without properly identifying the problematic insect. This can be detrimental to your garden. Insecticides can kill insects that are beneficial to your garden, like pollinators and insect predators.
This praying mantis is beneficial to your garden.
Step #2 Learn about the lifecycle and biology of the pest
Once the pest is correctly identified, a major part of growing organically or using integrated pest management (IPM) is learning about the insect to develop a plan of control. Learn about the life cycle and biology of your pest. Knowing all you can about a pest so you can manage that pest is just common sense.
For example, Mexican bean beetles lay their eggs in garden debris. Knowing that, you can help lessen your bean beetle problems by cleaning up your garden at the end of the summer.
Mexican bean beetle larva
Planting early, using netting, and choosing resistant varieties are all effective strategies that work in pest management IF the pest is known. Too much science for you? Your local UGA Extension agent is the resource to help you. Use his/her entomological skills to make your garden better!
And, remember that when using any insecticide the label instructions are the law!
It is the time of year when Georgia gardeners think about their Fall, cool-season gardens. Leafy greens like spinach, leaf lettuce, and kale are all popular cool-season crops. They don’t require the time necessary to make a “head”, you can eat the thinnings, and the varieties available are endless.
Lettuce in the Trustees Garden Savannah, Georgia
Often at the beginning of cool-season planting time, germination rates can be an issue. “I have purchased new spinach seed and my germination rate is only about 50%.” Or, “My arugula just did not come up at all.” The problem might not be the seed quality but the soil temperatures, especially in a hot summer like we have been experiencing. Seeds require a specific range of soil temperatures for best germination.
If soil temperatures are close to the range extremes, the germination rate will definitely be affected. These temperatures not only affect the germination rate but how quickly the seeds emerge. For example, at 50°F spinach seed can take as much as three weeks to emerge. At 70°F you could see emergence in just days.
Plant the following no later than the dates given:
—August 18: Snap beans and Irish potatoes (seed can be sprouted two to three weeks before planting).
—August 31: Cucumbers and squash; plant varieties resistant to downy mildew.
In order to calculate the planting date, determine the frost date and count back the number of days to maturity plus 18 days for harvest of the crop. If snap beans mature in 55 days and your frost date is November 15, you should plant on or before September 3.
Chamblee Senior Center Garden
Start plants for broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, collards, kale and onions in a half-shaded area for setting out in September.
Prepare soil for September to October plantings of “cool-season” crops. Apply fertilizer and prepare seeded so rains will settle the rows and make it easier to get seeds to germinate when they are planted.
If watering is necessary to get a stand, open the furrow for seed, pour in water, plant seed and cover. Use starter solution on the transplanted crops.
Water the garden as needed to prevent drought stress.
As gardeners we know that fresh is best. Not much beats a fresh tomato picked right from the garden. Chef Michael Bologna would agree with us. His restaurant, Vingenzo’s in Woodstock, Georgia, is based on freshness. And, he loves a really ripe, fresh tomato.
Chef Michael Bologna leading a cooking class.
Located in downtown Woodstock Vingenzo’s has won many, many awards including one of Atlanta’s Top 50 restaurants (Atlanta Magazine 2012). The restaurant features traditional Southern Italian fare. Sausage, mozzarella, pasta, sauces, and desserts are made fresh on-site.
Chef Bologna comes from an Italian family and he is very, very passionate about food. He truly delights in seeing people enjoy his cooking. He also enjoys teaching others how to prepare wonderful, fresh meals.
Chef Bologna giving me a cooking lesson.
Chef Bologna has been invited and cooked at the famed James Beard house – twice! Happily, he has agreed to share one of his favorite recipes with us. It features garden ripe tomatoes, something we all have a surplus of right now.
Chef Bologna’s Fresh Tomato Sauce
2 T olive oil
4 cloves garlic, sliced thin
1 pint cherry tomatoes, quartered or 4 roma tomatoes, diced
4oz olive oil
salt & pepper to taste
5 fresh basil leaves
1. Heat 2T oil up until almost smoking.
2. Add garlic and stir.
3. When garlic just starts to show color add tomatoes and stir.
4. Simmer until juices are released from tomatoes and add 4oz olive oil.
5. Simmer for 10 minutes.
6. Remove from heat.
7. Season with salt and pepper and torn basil leaves.
8. Serve with spaghetti or angel hair pasta.
Delicious meals don’t need many complicated ingredients.
If you haven’t grown tomatoes before, this recipe alone should inspire you. You could try growing some late season tomatoes or visit your local farmer’s market.
Thank you, Chef Bologna, for sharing your talents with us. And just for you…
