Month: September 2013

Source(s): Jim Howell, Ph.D., Entomologist, The University of Georgia

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House mice are one of the most troublesome and economically important pests in the United States. They consume food meant for human beings, pets and other animals; contaminate areas with their feces and urine; cause considerable damage to structures and property; and spread numerous diseases.

Identification

The house mouse (Mus musculus) is a small, slender, grayish-to-brown rodent having large ears, small black eyes and a slightly pointed nose. A house mouse weighs 1/2 to 4/5 ounce and is approximately 5 to 7 inches long, including the 3- to 4-inch tail. A house mouse lives about one year and reaches sexual maturity in 6 weeks.

Biology

House mice are found in and around homes and commercial structures as well as in open fields and agricultural lands. They came to the United States with the early Colonists and rapidly spread across the entire country.

They are generalist feeders but prefer seeds and grain. They also love foods high in fats, sugar and proteins, like bacon, chocolate candies and butter.

Mice are nibblers and though they may eat only about 3 grams of food a day, they destroy much more food than they consume. A single female may have up to five to ten litters a year, each litter having about five to six young. With that in mind, a single fertilized female can result in a large indoor population in a relatively short period of time.

Nests consist of fibrous material like cloth, rags or paper, usually in the form of a ball about 4 to 6 inches in diameter.

Mice are found in virtually any sheltered location. Indoors, they may be in a hole in the woodwork, or beneath some protective cover. Outside, they may nest in animal burrows, in collected plant material or beneath debris. When mice are present in significant numbers, their infestation is announced by a characteristic musty odor.

They are nocturnal and aren’t often seen by the homeowner, but their droppings, black pellets about 1/8 to 1/4 inch long and tapering on both ends, is a sure indication of their presence.

Damage

The house mouse is considered one of the most irksome and economically important pests in the United States. It gnaws on electrical wiring and may cause fires or failure to appliances; it pollutes clothes, food, furniture and other items with its droppings and urine; and it can spread disease when its waste products contaminate our food.

Control

The homeowner has a few options, including traps, rodenticides (poisons), and calling a licensed pest control company.

When populations are small, traps are the preferred method. They are less of a hazard for pets and children. and the mice can be removed promptly without the accompanying odor of animals dying in wall spaces and other inaccessible places. Snap traps are readily available at most grocery and hardware stores. Baiting with bacon or peanut butter gives excellent results.

Rodenticides should be used as a last resort because of hazards to children and pets. Extreme care should be taken to position these products in areas inaccessible to other animals and children.

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Center Publication Number: 243

Source(s): Louise Weyer, Program Assistant, Northwest District – Cobb County, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

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We are familiar with the saying, “Everyone talks about the weather, but nobody does anything about it.” Weather includes temperature, radiation, light, precipitation, fog, humidity, and wind. Surprisingly, we can modify some of these factors.

Plants undergo climatic influences on three different scales. The macroclimate encompasses large areas with fairly uniform conditions which are influenced by air masses moving over the earth’s surface. These air masses are modified by latitude, mountain ranges, bodies of water and the seasons. The mesoclimate is the local weather in a neighborhood, large park, farm or woods. It is modified by the local terrain, bodies of water, wind, cloud cover and land cover. The microclimate is the condition surrounding individual plants and/or plantings. If we study the dynamics of the mesoclimate and the microclimate, structural and cultural practices can be employed to modify them, making it possible to extend plant distribution and performance.

CLIMATE AND PLANTS

Both temperature and precipitation are dominated by macroclimate conditions. They are the most common limiting climatic factors in plant distribution and performance. It is important to understand the effects of temperature on plants and the factors that influence temperatures in the landscape. Excess precipitation and moisture can be just as damaging to plants as drought. With an understanding of these factors, we can employ cultural practices to use microclimates to advantage.

Sunlight is required for photosynthesis to convert carbon dioxide and water into carbohydrates and oxygen to sustain plant growth and health. High or low temperatures, low carbon dioxide concentrations and water deficits or excesses, can disturb the plant’s metabolism. High temperatures decrease photosynthesis and increase respiration (the breakdown of plant cells producing carbon dioxide). A soil-moisture deficiency can result in leaf-water deficits that cause the stomata (leaf pores) to close limiting the exchange of carbon dioxide. In addition to slowing photosynthesis, water deficits also cause leaves to wilt, to be smaller in size and to shed earlier. Excess water will fill the pore spaces in the soil, replacing the air. Since roots cannot survive in water-saturated soil, the plant will decline or die.

Low temperatures become a problem during the critical periods of spring, autumn, and the coldest part of winter causing frost injury and dieback. Leaves, leaf buds, flower buds are least resistant to low temperatures. Roots are less resistant to freezing than over wintering stems, but usually are adequately insulated by the soil. Minimum temperatures occurring after a warm period can be especially harmful. The fluctuating temperatures cause the bark to split and disrupt the flow of nutrients from the roots.

All plants will be injured or killed above maximum temperatures. Injury varies with species and the stage of plant development. Most plants exposed to temperatures of 104º – 113ºF for 4 hours will show signs of desiccation, summer branch drop, and begin to suffer root death. The soil one inch in from the side of a one gallon container exposed to afternoon sun will reach 110º – 115ºF and the roots on that side of the plant will die.

Trees alter the microclimate of a site. Heat rays are reflected off the surface of leaves. For example: if the air temperature is 84ºF, the surface temperature could be as high as 108ºF. If the area is planted with trees, the surface temperature may drop to 88ºF.

Also, temperature is modified by the reflective qualities of the surface covering in nonshaded areas. Asphalt and concrete absorb greater amounts of solar heat than turf and mulch, and these surfaces radiate more heat during the day and into the evening.

Since cold air is denser than warm air, it flows down a slope, accumulates in the lowest area creating a frost pocket and displaces the warmer air upwards. Plants grown in a frost pocket may have cold damage. They will emerge and bloom later than those planted elsewhere in the garden. Soil temperatures matter most if you are trying to encourage earlier blooms.

Wind affects plant growth by increasing transpiration (evaporation of water) and carbon dioxide uptake and decreasing shoot elongation. High winds can deform plants and seriously damage them. Changes in wind speed are accompanied by changes in air temperature and humidity.

Water runoff from paved surfaces, buildings and impervious subsoil strata accumulates in the pore spaces between soil particles reducing the oxygen, which is required for healthy roots to keep the plants supplied with sufficient nutrients for photosynthesis. Also, compaction caused by high usage decreases soil pore space, affects drainage and impairs root growth.

ANALYZING MICROCLIMATES

Do a microclimate analysis of your property. (1) Look at seasonal solar radiation patterns. Which areas are expose to direct solar radiation? (2) Which areas are shaded at different times of the day, of the year? (3) Analyze reflective qualities of surface materials in nonshaded or exposed areas.(4) Look at how the wind flows across your property, around structures, down corridors of buildings. (5) What is the direction of the prevailing wind? (6) Locate wet and dry areas, and the flow of rainwater.

Prepare a map of the property indicating the various climatic conditions. Highlight the areas that have different microclimate conditions. This will help determine various plant habitats and horticultural opportunities.

MAXIMIZING MICROCLIMATES

Having identified the various microclimates, one is able to plan and make changes to the landscape. Awareness of how temperature and wind affect plant growth will facilitate selecting plants that are suited for the intended site. Remember to consider the plant’s mature size when selecting plants.

Study the appearance, health, and growth of existing plants. If there appear to be problems, perhaps transplanting to a different microclimate site will revitalize the plant.

Change the location of containers and planters to protect plants from excessive heat and root loss.

Enjoy earlier blooms by placing plants next to paving or structures that radiate heat providing a few degrees of extra warmth. Extend the bloom season by planting in both warm and cool spots. Also a plant can be espaliered against a south wall to take advantage of stored heat and reduced radiation.

Two to three inches of mulch will cool the soil during the summer and retain moisture. On the other hand, several inches of mulch will protect plants from cold during the winter.

Use structural elements – buildings, fences, stonewalls – and landscape design elements – trees, windbreaks, berms – to limit sunlight and increase shade, and modify air movement. Air and ground temperatures will be changed by several degrees. On the other hand, removal of these elements will increase sunlight and decrease shade. Over the years as the trees and windbreaks mature, the microclimate will change offering new landscaping opportunities.

Wind is controlled to a distance of 2 to 5 times the height of the barrier in front of a wind obstruction and from 10 to 15 times the height leeward of such a barrier (30-foot high windscreen may reduce wind velocities for 100 yards in front and 300 yards downwind). Wind can be guided to the desired location by the angle of the planting. Shelterbelts are most effective when placed perpendicular to the prevailing winds.

A row of closely planted trees or shrubs, a solid fence, or a long building placed at right angles to a slope can act as a barrier to the flow of cool air but will create a cold pocket on the downward slope side. Plant on the leeward (downside) side.

Develop a low maintenance landscape feature by directing runoff water into a rain garden, which is an area in the landscape that captures a shallow amount of water and holds it for a short period of time, and allows it to seep slowly into the ground. Feature a mix of drought tolerant, wet tolerant and hardy plants such as ornamental grasses, shrubs and self-seeding perennials in this area. Or utilize wet areas for a display of moisture loving plants. If this is not part of your landscape design, install adequate drainage.

Consider macroclimate shifts in weather patterns from wet to drought. Utilize the property map to include xeriscaping techniques and irrigation to compensate for short rainfall.

In addition to enhancing the landscape, modifications can be used to decrease energy costs associated with the interior comfort of the home. Proper placement of trees shade the home, channel air movement and create cooler temperatures near the home in the summertime. Deciduous trees permit solar radiation, effectively lowering heating costs. Also, windbreaks and fences deflect cold winds. Vines grown on masonry walls insulate against cold winter winds and hot summer sun. The outer surface temperature difference may be 8ºF, and the indoor difference as much as 20ºF.

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Resource(s):

• Arboriculture, Integrated Management of Landscape Trees, Shrubs, and Vines, Richard W. Harris, Regents/Prentice Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N.J.
• Nature’s Design, Carol A. Smyser, Rodale Press, Emmaus, PN
• “Managing Microclimates,” Renee Beaulieu, Fine Gardening, July/Aug. 1996
• Enviroscaping to Conserve Energy: A Guide to Microclimate Modification,” A. W. Meerow and R. J. Black, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida
• Tree Maintenance, P. P. Pirone, Oxford University Press, New York, NY

Center Publication Number: 61

Source(s): Jacob G Price

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Many garden plants are affected by mildew, both woody and herbaceous.

DESCRIPTION

Downy (False Mildew): Grows from within the plant and sends branches out through the plants stomata to create pale patches on the leaves. It is a fungal disease with a white to purple, downy growth, usually on the underside of leaves and along stems which turns black with age. Is encouraged by cool, wet nights, and warm, humid days. Overwinters on diseased plant refuse in the soil.

Powdery: Lives on the leaf surface. Sends out hollow tubes into the plant to suck out nutrients. It is a fungal disease with a white to grayish powdery growth, usually on the upper surfaces of leaves. Small black dots appear and produce spores that are blown by wind to infect new plants. Worst in hot,dry weather with cool nights (Night: 61oF with relative humidity 95-99%; Day: 81oF with relative humidity 40-70% Powdery growth is viable two days after infection. Growth is enhanced by low light levels that accompany cloudy or foggy periods. Cannot survive if there is a film of water on leaves or stems.

DETECTION

Downy – The best time to examine plants is early in the morning while dew is on the leaves. The first symptom is sunken, water-soaked spots on leaves, either yellowish or grayish in color. Spots later become covered with a downy purplish mold growth which may eventually be blackened by a second fungus.

Powdery – Starts on young leaves as raised blister-like areas that cause the leaves to curl, exposing lower surface. Infected leaves become covered with a grayish-white powdery fungus growth. Disease prefers young, succulent growth; mature tissue is usually not affected. Unopened flower buds may be white with mildew and never open. Leaves will become brown and shrivel when mildew is extensive. Fruits ripen prematurely and have poor texture and flavor.

CONTROL

Downy

1. Plant resistant cultivars.
2. Prune to improve air circulation and remove infected branches.
3. Use a three -year rotation.

Powdery

1. Prune or stake to improve air circulation.
2. Dispose of infected plants before spores form.
3. Apply a weekly water wash during periods of active growth. Wash both upper and under surfaces of the leaves. Do in early afternoon because that is when spores are most likely to be moving on air currents.
4. Apply sulphur weekly to susceptible plants. Be certain to cover the tops and underside of leaves, paying special attention to the growing tips. It is best to begin applications early in the season, since sulfur is more effective at preventing disease than at curing it. If the temperature exceeds 85oF, do not apply sulfur since it may burn the leaves.
5. Apply lime sulfur to dormant plants to kill overwintering spores lodged in unopened buds or on canes.
6. Treat with Clearys 3336, Banner Maxx, Bayleton or Mancozeb.

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Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 28

Source(s):

• Marjan Kluepfel, HGIC Information Specialist
• Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University

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Mondo grass, also known as monkey grass (Ophiopogon japonicus), is an evergreen, sod-forming perennial. The scientific name is derived from ophis = snake, and pogon = beard, most likely referring to the flower spike

Description

Plants are tufted, grasslike and 8 to 16 inches high. The ½-inch leaves are dark green and fine to medium in texture. They are erect to arching, smooth and grasslike. The flowers are usually white or white tinged with lilac. Flowering and fruiting occur from July through September.

Mondo grass is quite often confused with liriope (Liriope muscari). However, the leaves of mondo grass are more narrow than those of liriope, the smaller flowers are hidden by the leaves, the fruits are blue compared to the black fruits of liriope and mondo grass is less cold hardy.

Landscape Use

Mondo grass is primarily used as groundcover. It is also attractive as a border along paths, between stepping stones or flowerbed and lawn, or in rock gardens. It grows well along streams and around garden ponds. Mondo grass competes well with the roots of other plants. Under trees or shrubs it makes an excellent shade-tolerant lawn that never needs mowing.

Cultivation

Mondo grass grows well in ordinary garden soil, requiring minimum attention once established. Plants thrive in filtered sun to full shade and prefer moist soil. The foliage is usually light green when plants are grown in filtered sun. Plants growing in the shade have dark green leaves.

Propagate by dividing large clumps. Be sure to include as many roots as possible and eight to 10 leaves on each section for planting. The plants are easily established and require little effort. The plants do not need heavy feeding. Mondo grass looks attractive year-round. However, the leaves may become ragged by late winter. Shear back the shaggy old leaves in early spring before new growth starts.

Cultivars

• The cultivars ‘Aureovariegatus,’ ‘Variegatus’ and ‘Vittatus’ have longitudinally striped leaves with white or yellow and green stripes. The variable variegated foliage usually makes it difficult to distinguish one cultivar from another.
• The cultivar ‘Caeruleus’ has dark green leaves like the parent species and violet blue flowers.
• ‘Kioto’ or dwarf mondo grass grows only to about 4 inches high. Flowers are small, 2 to 3 millimeters long and light lilac to white.
• ‘Nippon’ is very small (2 to 4 inches tall) and has whitish flowers in the summer.
• ‘Gyoko-ryu’ is even shorter and more compact than ‘Nippon.’

Related Species

• Black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus) is an interesting introduction from England. The dark purple leaves appear almost black. The plants are about 6 inches tall. In South Carolina, black mondo grass should be planted in partial shade. Cultivars ‘Nigrescens’ and ‘Ebony Knight’ do not differ very much.
• O. jaburan is coarser than O. japonicus, with light purple to white flowers. Plants grow 15 to 18 inches tall but are not as good a groundcover as O. japonicus.

Problems

A fungal disease known as anthracnose is the most common problem. Remove infected leaves and/or apply a recommended fungicide.

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Resource(s): Ground Covers

Center Publication Number: 204

Source(s): Walter Reeves, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, Former County Extension Agent – DeKalb County

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Buzzzzzzzz…SMACK! Spring and summer rains can cause a population explosion of mosquitoes! Two kinds of mosquitoes are commonly seen (and felt!): the ” swamp” or “Egyptian” mosquito, which feeds at dusk and the Asian tiger mosquito, which feeds during the day. The tiger mosquito has tiny white stripes around its rear legs. Since the tiger mosquito flies and feeds during the day, it is the one that causes the most distress to gardeners and others.

Although they can be blown into your yard by the wind, it is likely that the mosquito biting you has come from just a few yards away! Adult mosquitoes lay eggs in damp soil or rotting vegetation. The eggs remain dormant until rain saturates the area. A small, hidden pool of rainwater that remains for just ten days may produce hundreds of ravenous pests.

Many people have seen the fogging trucks which operate at dusk in communities along the coast of Georgia. The insecticide fog stays close to the ground and kills most of the night feeding swamp mosquitoes. Unfortunately, it is VERY difficult to control Asian tiger mosquitoes with fogged or sprayed insecticides. Since these blood-suckers feed during the day, fogs and sprays are quickly dispersed by the wind.

NO STANDING WATER

The BEST first step toward control for either type of mosquito is to look for pockets of water outdoors and drain them. An organized search among neighbors may turn up dozens of mosquito hiding places. Look for clogged gutters, leaf-filled drains, drain outlets from air-conditioners, plastic wading pools, dog dishes, soft drink cans, plastic bags, old tires, birdbaths, potted plant saucers, standing water in tire ruts, stumps, tree holes, puddles hidden under English ivy and pools left by flooded streams.

TREAT PUDDLES

If a pool of water can’t be permanently drained, i.e. bird baths and landscape water features, a special organic mosquito control can be used. The mosquito disease spore Bacillus thuringensis (B.t.) is sold at garden centers. A common brand name is “Mosquito Dunks”. These can be put in pools of standing water, where they provide control for several weeks. The active ingredient has no effect on birds or animals.

FOGGERS? MAYBE

Temporary relief outdoors can be had by using a fogger (not a garden sprayer) made specifically for mosquito control. A special insecticide will be sold for use with the fogger. Use it a few hours before an outdoor activity is planned. It will not be very effective on a windy day.

MOSQUITO PLANTS

In recent years, a plant advertised to repel mosquitoes has appeared in garden centers. This citrosa plant is actually a scented geranium. It has not been proven effective for repelling mosquitoes. The herb lemon balm also is reputed to repel insects. It is possible that if you rub the plant leaves on your skin, insects will be kept away for a short time. One experimenter estimated plant oils to be only 40 – 60 percent as effective as DEET, the active ingredient in most mosquito sprays (Off, Cutters, etc.). If you depend on the citrosa plant to keep mosquitoes away from your patio, the results may be much less than you desire. The citrosa is grown as an annual in Atlanta. It may be perennial in places where frost is rare.

CITRONELLA CANDLES

Citronella oil is extracted from citronella grass, which is grown in the tropics. The oil can be vaporized by mixing it with wax and manufacturing a candle to be burned outdoors. Citronella oil is effective for repelling insects. However, the smoke and odor may be too strong for some people’s taste. Several candles must be used to be effective outdoors.

ULTRASONIC REPELLERS

These gadgets are a perfect example of the quotation “If it sounds too good to be true it probably is. ” In fact, the ultrasonic mosquito repellers are absolutely useless. Do not waste your money on ultrasonic mosquito, flea, rat or squirrel repellers!

REPELLENT SPRAYS

Sometimes the best you can do is to station cans of mosquito repellent spray near the garden, lawn and deck. The active ingredient, DEET, is a proven insect repellent. Questions have arisen concerning the safety of the chemical, so avoid heavy application to your skin. Lightly spray exposed flesh plus sock tops, pants cuffs and t-shirt collars. The repellent sprays may be our only hope when all else fails.

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Center Publication Number: 29

Source(s): Randy Drinkard

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You may have noticed when cutting your grass recently that what was once your nice, thick, green lawn has turned into a not-so-nice, thick, green something else? What is this “stuff” that is taking over the lawn? And can it be stopped from spreading over your entire yard? Most likely the problem is moss, although in some cases it may be algae.

Moss and algae replace turfgrass when growing conditions for turfgrass are poor and conditions for moss and algae are favorable. Neither moss nor algae are parasitic on turf and they do not kill turf as diseases do.

Moss and algae are simply plants looking for a home and if the right conditions are provided, they can quickly take up residence and do well. This is the way nature intended it, so let’s see what created the conditions for these two turf pests to occur in the first place.

Mosses are small plants which produce a mass of fine stems that can survive under very shady conditions. Moss will take over and grow where the shade is so dense during the summer that not enough light is present to support growth of a turfgrass such as fescue. Moss also thrives during periods of high humidity and in water-logged soils like we had earlier this year due to heavy summer rainfall amounts.

Algae is a very simple plant that has no vascular system. It usually forms a dense green mat or scum over the soil surface, although reddish or brownish forms may also occur in some situations. Algae needs plenty of water and lots of sunshine for growth. When the soil dries, algae forms a black crust which becomes hard and relatively water-resistant.

The best solution for either of these problems is the use of a soil aerator that removes plugs of soil from the ground, thus enhancing soil drainage. However, if the affected area has very little grass, it is better to start over. Till the soil to a depth of 6 inches to break up the restrictive layer. Tilling will also facilitate incorporation of lime and fertilizer into the soil. A soil test should be taken to determine plant nutrient needs. Soils with low fertility and low pH (acidic) lead to poor growing conditions for grass and make it easier for algae and moss to become established.

Improving the drainage with the incorporation of organic matter is also beneficial. Low areas that do not drain well should be contoured. In some cases, the use of drain tiles can help remove excess water and improve growing conditions for turfgrasses. Sometimes we may create water problems by watering too much. Irrigation systems should be adjusted to match the soil conditions and plant needs.

Moss can become very thick under heavy shade conditions. Thinning trees or pruning limbs to improve light conditions and increase air circulation is often helpful. If grass won’t grow in these areas it may be necessary to utilize a shade-tolerant ground cover or simply cover the area in mulch.

Some chemicals are available to eliminate moss. Their effect is only temporary and the problem will likely return if conditions do not favor turfgrass growth. Iron sulfate can be applied at the rate according label directions. This product can be purchased at local garden centers and nurseries, farm supply dealers or building supply stores. The only sure method of eliminating moss is to remove it by hand raking.

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Center Publication Number: 118

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

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Proper mowing of turgrasses is essential in order to produce an attractive, healthy lawn.

Proper mowing will have tremendous effect on the appearance of a lawn. Height of cut, frequency of cut and type of mower used are all important factors to consider when mowing a lawn. For the best appearance, a grass should be kept at its best height for growth.

Reel mowers are best suited for the hybrid bermudas and zoysiagrass. The other grasses can satisfactorily be cut with a rotary mower. Dull mower blades tear leaves instead of cutting them, thus producing a poor appearance and increasing the possibility of disease problems.

As a general rule, a grass should be mowed often enough so that you never remove more than 1/4-1/3 of the plant material. Example: If a bluegrass lawn is cut at a height of 2 inches, the grass should be cut when it reaches 3 inches. Removal of too much plant material can shock the grass.

The most damaging mowing practice is a sudden reduction in mowing height. This upsets the balance between the grass leaves and roots. It also gives a scalped appearance and usually injures the grass. If the grass becomes too tall between mowings, gradually reduce the cutting height until the recommended height is reached.

During stress periods, such as summer heat, it is a good idea to raise the height of cut slightly. This is especially helpful to the cool-season grasses because it reduces the stress on the grass. After the stress is gone, lower the height of cut gradually. Grasses in shaded areas should be cut higher than normally suggested for better growth. Raising the mowing height of warm-season grasses as fall approaches will help the grass survive the winter months.

If lawns are properly fertilized and mowed, grass clippings will not promote thatch accumulation. In fact returning the clippings to the soil will recycle plant nutrients and reduce fertilizer requirements. However, on high level maintenance lawns, such as hybrid bermuda and zoysiagrass lawns, clipping removal is advised, otherwise thatch will accumulate. This “thatch layer” (Figure 10) is an accumulation of dead plant material at the soil surface. It prevents penetration of water into the soil, harbors insects and disease organisms and leads to a shallow root grass which is heat, cold and drought susceptible. Many people like a dense soft mat of turf on their lawns, but this is usually a sign of excessive thatch and generally leads to problems.

Scalping or lowering the lawn mower cutting height and mowing the lawn in several directions just prior to spring “green-up” will help prevent thatch accumulation. The removal of this dead plant material will also encourage early spring growth. Centipede and St. Augustinegrass are spread by above ground runners or stolons, thus they should not be scalped as low as the other grasses or they may not recover. For more information on thatch refer to Cooperative Extension Service Leaflet No. 394, Thatch Control in Turf.

 

Mowing Height for Lawn Grasses in Georgia
Grass	Cutting Height (inches)
Tall Fescue	2-3
Bluegrass	2-3
Common Bermudagrass	1-2
Hybrid Bermudagrass	0.5-1.5
Zoysia	0.5-1.5
Centipedegrass	1-1.5
Carpetgrass	1-2
St. Augustine	2-3
Ryegrass	1-2

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Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 132

Source(s): Wayne McLaurin

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Few jobs in the vegetable garden are as rewarding as mulching. Time spent applying mulch to pepper, tomatoes, squash, eggplant and other vegetables will mean extra dividends at harvest time. Mulch prevents loss of moisture from the soil, suppresses weed growth, reduces fertilizer leaching, cools the soil and keeps vegetables off the ground. Fruit rots sometimes occur when vegetables touch the ground.

Mulching Advantages

• Serves as a barrier between the plant and soil and helps prevent fruit rots.
• Reduces labor since less cultivation is required. Emerging and small weeds perish under their bark barrier. Therefore, it reduces the need for tillage and the use of weed-control chemicals.
• Conserves water by reducing evaporation of soil moisture, in turn lowering the soil temperature. Water absorption by a mulched soil is greater than that of unmulched soil. Mulch also prevents the formation of soil crusts. Soil loss from heavy rain and wind is decreased. In effect, mulches are excellent conservation agents.
• Improves root growth by acting as an excellent insulator and preventing drastic fluctuations in soil temperature. Mulch keeps the soil cooler in summer and warmer in winter, improving both root growth and nutrient availability. At the end of the growing season, organic mulches can be tilled into the soil to further increase the organic-matter content and the water holding capacity of the soil.
• Makes the garden neater and reduces the incidence of mud-splashed flowers and vegetables after heavy rains.

Choosing the Right Mulch

A practical mulch should be easily obtained, inexpensive and simple to apply. Availability and cost vary from region to region. Mulching materials may be available from materials in your own yard such as leaves, bought from garden centers and obtained from tree service firms. A suggested depth is 3 to 4 inches, bearing in mind that too little will give limited weed control and too much will prevent air from reaching roots.

Bark

Small pieces of bark are preferred over large chunks. Bark mulches vary, but all are attractive, durable and suitable for foundation shrub plantings. Contact with wood framing is to be avoided, since bark can be a termite vector. The high carbon- to-nitrogen ratio of bark requires prior application of nitrogen fertilizer.

Coffee grounds

Coffee grounds cake badly; a depth of 1 inch is recommended. Coffee grounds contain some nitrogen.

Compost

An especially good mulch, compost has fertilizer value and soil-like appearance. It is also a good organic amendment for tilling into the soil after the growing season ends.

Leaves

Leaves are free, readily available in many areas, release some nutrients upon decomposition and spread easily. However, they have a tendency to from a soggy, impenetrable mat. This problem can be overcome by mixing leaves with fluffy materials, such as hay or straw, or by shredding the leaves.

Newspaper

This is certainly readily available and economical, but somewhat difficult to apply. The high carbon-to-nitrogen ratio necessitates the prior application of nitrogen fertilizer. A good use for newspaper is as an under-mulch; that is place 2 to 3 sheets under a thin layer of attractive, more expensive mulch.

Peanut shells (NOT RECOMMENDED)

Peanut shells are carriers of Sclerotium rotfsii, also known by the common names of Southern blight and white mold which can be a major problem in the garden. Peanut hulls may also be infested with nematodes and nut sedge seeds and/or tubers.

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Resource(s):

• Mulching Vegetables
• Vegetable Gardening in Georgia
• Center Publication Number: 39

Source(s): Laurene Hall

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There are several types of Needle Blight diseases that effect plants. Pestalotiopsis sp. is a type of needle blight fungal disease that is considered usually a minor disease. It attacks foliage that has been injured or weakened by unfavorable weather or growing conditions. Usually, the killed foliage is near the base of the plant and where foliage is relatively dense. The disease may kill the smaller twigs where the infected needles died.

IDENTIFICATION

The Blight usually starts at the tip of the foliage and progresses towards the leaf base. The color of the foliage goes from green to yellowish, then to a dark brown that can look almost black. Twig tips turn tan to brown in color and have black, pimple-like fungal fruiting structures dotting their surface

APPEARANCE

Infections can occur anytime of the year. In the spring, when weather conditions are favorable, fungal populations can increase very rapidly and disease losses can be severe. Factors that favor disease include frost during early shoot development; cool, wet weather in spring or fall; pruning wounds; and heavy vegetative growth early or late in the season brought on by high nitrogen applications. Most importantly, this disease often affects trees that have suffered from stress (whether it is cultural, mechanical or environmental).

HOSTS

Various species of trees, shrubs, and other ornamental plants can potentially develop the disease. However, some plants are more susceptible than others. Particularly, needled evergreens, conifers, and some varieties of juniper are most susceptible. The presence of the correct environmental factors will decide whether or not a plant will develop this disease from causal agents. Additionally, wind-driven rain, insects and contaminated pruning tools all spread the fungus from plant-to-plant

INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT(IPM) CONTROL

Control is to prune out dead foliage and twigs as soon as possible. Reduce winter injury by minimizing dehydration. Do not allow snow to accumulate or remain up and around the base of the plant for any length of time – especially during melting. Avoid over crowding the plants to allow sufficient sunlight and air circulation. Keep plants healthy by maintaining good cultural practices (i.e. proper watering, fertilization and minimal mechanical damage) and, when possible, protecting plants from other environmental stresses such as drought.

CHEMICAL CONTROLS

Use fungicides wisely. Chemical control is usually not necessary and often unsuccessful if the fungicide is not applied properly. It can also be impractical and not economically feasible for homeowners to spray fungicides on trees. This is because many trees that are affected by Blight are well established and too large to spray. Additionally, mature trees may naturally develop the disease more frequently as a result of the stress of old age. Consequently, with the proper pruning and removal of infected material the tree may recover from the blight on its own and without the use of a fungicide.
If you think your plant is suffering from blight, bring a sample of the leaves on a branch with both healthy and diseased tissue to the Extension office for proper diagnosis. A fungicide recommendation may be given if the problem cannot be corrected by cultural IPM practices. Always carefully follow label directions when applying chemicals and wear protective clothing if necessary.

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Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 48

Source(s): Tony Johnson, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, Horticulturist, UGA Research and Education Garden

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Location, Location, Location. No, this is not about Real Estate. Planning and site selection are the most important steps in building a water garden. Poor planning causes many of the problems of installing and maintaining a water garden. Before you put a shovel in the ground know what you want to create.

DO NOT locate your water garden in a low area. You must make sure that surface water does not get into your pond and contaminate the system with fertilizers, chemicals and silt which will, in turn, damage water quality, fish and plants.

If you want a water garden with lots of blooming plants, the site must have a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight per day.
It is possible and sometimes desirable to have a water garden in a shaded area, but be careful not to damage tree roots; and remember, you will have to cope with more leaves and debris. Water gardens can be landscaped with woodland plants and the shade will help reduce the free-floating algae.

If you want a waterfall or stream effect, make sure you have some type of background such as an existing slope or one created with the soil you excavate. Use some type of evergreen planting to soften the slope.

The water will always be level. Make sure the edges of your water garden are level, too! Spend time making sure your water garden is level and the rest of the installation will go much smoother.

Be sure to use liners that are fish safe, such as Permalon or EPDM. Liner Size = Maximum Length of the pond + 2 x Depth of the pond + 1 Foot x Maximum Width of the pond + 2 x Depth of the pond + 1 Foot.

In the south, a depth of 18 to 24 inches will be fine for fish other than Koi. Koi ponds need to be deeper (3 to 4 feet). Amount of water in pond (Length x Width x Depth) x 7.5 gallons. Other organic material, such as leaves and dead plant material becomes food for free floating algae.

If your water garden is in full sun, 60% of the surface should be covered in plant material. This will shade the free-floating algae. Black dye can also help shade the pond in early spring before the plants fill out. Use one bunch of anacharis per sq.ft. of surface area.

Hardy Water Lilies will survive winter but tropicals will need to be protected or replaced each season.
A skimmer is recommended to help keep leaves and other debris under control. Also it is a convenient way to hide and protect the pump.

Some type of bio-filter is recommended to help keep the water quality safe for fish and to help remove excess nutrients. Most UV lights only cover up problems with water clarity. If you have enough plants and do not have an over population of fish or over feed them, you should be able to keep you water clear.

Set pond plants in pots with solid sides and bottoms, use a non-organic soil and then cover the pot with river stone to prevent the fish from stirring up the soil. This will help keep the water from being cloudy.

Fertilize plants once a month during the growing season with plant fertilizer tablets.

DO NOT drain your pond each year. Take about 20% from the bottom. Use a dechlorinator to remove the chlorine from the water you use to refill or top off your pond.

Most aquatic plants can be invasive, never discard plants around or in natural water systems, such as streams or lakes. The best place to dispose of them is your compost pile.

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Center Publication Number: 88