Month: September 2013

Source(s): Willie O Chance

---

Lantanas can bloom from June through early October in Georgia. Lantana Lace bug can stop lantanas from blooming. The lace bugs feed on leaves and flower buds, leaving stunted green plants with no flowers.

Description and Damage

The lantana lace bug is a small brown insect up to 1/6 inch long. Adult lace bugs are long, oval insects with a midsection that is slightly wider than the ends. The rear of the lantana lace bug is blunt but rounded off. The young are dull-colored and spiny. Look for the lantana lace bug by shaking the branch over a piece of white paper or light-colored cloth.

Lace bugs feed on the bottom of the leaves and on young flower buds. They make the top of the leaves speckled with white, similar to mite injury. Underneath the leaf you may see brown, tarry spots that are the insect’s droppings. Since lace bugs feed on young flower buds, lantana bloom may be severely reduced or stopped completely.

Cultural Control

• Lace bugs do have several natural enemies that help to control their numbers – spiders, lacewing larvae, assassin bugs and predaceous mites.
• Planting resistant varieties may help reduce lace bug numbers.
• Lantanas that are more resistant to lantana lace bug: Weeping White, White Lightning, Weeping Lavender, Imperial Purple, Patriot Rainbow, Denholm Dwarf White, Radiation, Dallas Red and Gold Mound.
• Cultivars of Lantana montevidensis are also more resistant to lace bugs.
• Small leafed varieties seem to be more resistant than large leafed varieties, although both types can be attacked by lantana lace bugs.
• More susceptible: Patriot Desert Sunset, Pink Frolic and Patriot Sunburst.

Chemical Control

If cultural and natural controls do not limit the lacewing population, you may need to treat with chemicals.- You can treat plants with Orthene (acephate), imidacloprid, or other systemic insecticides. See the Pest Management Handbook for details.- Read and follow all label directions when using pesticides. Check the plants in two weeks or so and treat again if needed. The blooms should slowly return if temperatures are warm enough and other growing conditions are good.

Other problems affecting bloom: Blooming on lantana should slow down as temperatures drop in the fall. Lantanas like full sun, well-drained soils, deep watering once a week and light fertilization. If the plant is lacking one of these, correct the problem. Prune off old seed pods or berries left from prior flowers. Re-fertilize once lightly and water deeply once a week to encourage new blooms. Take care not to over fertilize since this may reduce flowering and increase disease susceptibility.

---

See these sources for much of this information:

• Lantana Lace Bug
• Resistance among Lantana Cultivars to the Lantana Lace Bug
• Lantana

For more information:

• Call your local Extension Agent at (800-ASK-UGA1) or Locate your local Extension Office – Georgia Extension Office Locations
• Pest Management Handbook (Follow all label recommendations when using any pesticide)
• Read other Landscape Alerts at – UGA Center For Urban Agriculture

Center Publication Number: 268

Source(s): Jim Midcap, Extension Horticulturist, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

---

The bright leaves of fall too soon discolor and drop, leaving bare stems. But then we discover the clusters of jewels still hidden among the plants. The ornamental fruit and berry season is upon us. Bright reds, oranges, yellows, purples and whites suddenly jump to the forefront.

 

Beautyberries

Among the most delightful of these appearances is the stunning purple fruit of the beautyberry. Our native American beautyberry produces dense clusters of lavender-purple fruit at every leaf at the ends of the stems. Long, arching branches are covered with leaves and fruit. And as soon as the leaves drop, the spectacular fruit is exposed.

American beautyberry grows 4 to 6 feet tall or higher and has coarse foliage and rank growth. Oriental beautyberries have smaller leaves, fruit and growth habit. All can be cut back heavily in early spring and still produce berries.

Plant beautyberries in full sun and well-drained soil for good growth and heavy fruit set. There are selections that produce white fruit. The white-fruited types are attractive early, but they discolor and lose their charm long before the purple-fruited types do. All can be used indoors as cut stems in flower arrangements.

Hollies

The hollies are the aristocrats of the fall berry producers.

Burford and Foster’s holly produce bright red fruits all over the plants. The contrast of the dark green foliage and bright red berries makes a perfect show. Burford holly develops into a 15- to 20-foot, rounded tree, while Foster’s holly is pyramidal and reaches 40 feet tall. Dwarf Burford is smaller in size, leaf and fruit, yet still reaches 10 feet tall.

Other evergreen hollies with attractive fruit include Savannah, Emily Brunner, yaupon and Mary Nell. The yaupon hollies have bright, translucent fruit. The selection, “Shadow’s Female,” is covered with lustrous, dark green leaves and masses of bright red fruit in fall.

Deciduous hollies

The deciduous hollies, possum haw and winterberry, can be spectacular, with bare branches loaded with red or orange berries. Winter Red winterberry holds its large red fruit the longest. Like most hollies, a male pollinator is needed for fruit set.

Many yellow-fruited hollies could brighten up our landscapes. The Chinese holly, “D’Or,” looks like a Burford with gleaming yellow berries. Some yaupon hollies also have yellow fruit. Yellow fruits often last late into the season because the birds don’t see them and they remain uneaten.

Pyracantha

Many other plants can add colorful fruit to our landscapes, too. The pyracantha or firethorn are spectacular when espaliered on a wall and covered with dark red or bright orange berries.

Nandina

Our tall nandina provides shining red berries against the evergreen foliage. Long canes covered with colorful berries can be cut and used in winter decorations without harming the plant. These fall and winter-berried plants add a sparkle to the garden just when we were ready to settle in for the winter.

---

Resource(s): Landscape Plants for Georgia

Center Publication Number: 154

Source(s): Willie O. Chance, UGA College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences Extension Agent, Houston County.

---

Spring is almost here – ready or not. And this is the last call for many winter garden jobs. Try to do these chores as soon as possible, before your plants really start growing.

Control scale insects on branches of shrubs and trees with a dormant oil spray. Also, check and control overwintering infestations of scale insects found on the foliage of evergreen plants, such as camellias, cleyeras and hollies. Begin using other insecticides once your plants begin to bud or leaf out.

Remove old foliage on liriope. You can use a mower set on the highest setting or a weed eater. Do this before new growth starts (look in the center of the plant for new leaves). Cutting liriope back removes the old, ugly and blighted leaves. Never mow mondo grass (dwarf lily turf or monkey grass), however, as shearded mondo grass foliage does not grow back as well as liriope foliage.

Transplant trees and shrubs as soon as possible. Fall is best time to transplant, but now is okay, too. The later you wait, however, the lower their chance of survival.

Mulch, mulch, mulch! A layer of mulch, three to four inches thick, helps control weeds and keeps the soil moist. There are many sources of free or inexpensive mulch, so you have no reason not to mulch. This works well for fruits, vegetables, shrubs and flowers.

Fertilize pecan tree now before the grass really gets started. There are several options, but be sure to use a fertilizer with zinc in it. Pecans require zinc to make their leaves stronger and to help in kernel development. If using 10-10-10, apply one pound to new trees and four pounds per inch of trunk diameter at chest height to older trees. Spread it evenly around the tree, well beyond the drip line (the point to which the branches reach).

Prune spring-flowering plants, such as azaleas, camellias, forsythias, quince and spireas, etc. as soon as they finish blooming. Avoid shearing these plants, but selectively remove branches to maintain the beauty and shape of the plants.

Fertilize bulbs as soon as they come up. After they bloom, let the foliage die back naturally. This allows the bulb to store energy for next year’s blooms. If you want to move bulbs, mark where they are growing and then transplant them after the foliage dies back. Keep bulbs watered as needed.

Prune crape myrtles, chaste trees (Vitex), hollies and roses and other summer-blooming shrubs as soon as possible. Many other shrubs can be pruned now as well. Prune trees as little as possible. Do not give them an overall shearing. This can ruin their shape. Instead, remove individual branches completely back to where they are attached to the main branch.

Nandina grows like bamboo. These plants have long canes with leaves at the tops of the branches. Prune nandina plants by cutting one-third of the canes at one-third of the height of the plant. Prune another third at two-thirds height and leave one third alone. This should make the plant bushy. Mahonia and Aucuba (Gold dust plant) can also be pruned this way.

Do you have enough to do now? For more information on these and other lawn, landscape and garden topics, contact your local Cooperative Extension office.

---

Resource(s): Care of Ornamental Plants in the Landscape

Center Publication Number: 165

Source(s): Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, The University of Georgia

---

Applying the correct amount and type of fertilizer is essential in order to produce an attractive, healthy lawn.

Lawn fertilizer recommendations are generally made in pounds per 1,000 square feet of lawn area.

The square footage of a lawn area can be easily calculated. Simply walk off the length and then the width of the yard, taking 3-foot steps. Multiply the total number of steps in each dimension by 3. Then multiply the length times the width of the yard. Remember to deduct areas such as driveways and home area.

Fertilizer Calculations

If a recommendation requires a complete fertilizer, any complete fertilizer of the same ratio can be used. Example:

• 10-10-10 (1-1-1 ratio) can be used for 8-8-8.
• 5-10-15 (1-2-3 ratio) can be used for 7-14-21.

A common recommendation for turfgrasses is to apply 1 pound of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet. To determine how many pounds of fertilizer it would take to supply 1 pound of N, divide the percent nitrogen of the fertilizer into 100. (Note: This is only true when working on a 1,000 square foot basis.)

Examples: How many pounds of (1) 10-10-10; (2) 12-4-8; (3) 5-10-15; and (4) 16-4-8 are needed to apply 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet.

(1)	100	=	10 pounds of 10-10-10
–	10
(2)	100	=	8.3 pounds of 12-4-8
–	12
(3)	100	=	20 pounds of 5-10-15
–	5
(4)	100	=	6.3 pounds of 16-4-8
–	16

In cases where you are substituting complete fertilizers of different ratios, the application rate should be based on the amount of that fertilizer needed to supply the recommended amount of nitrogen. Thus, all of the above fertilizers would supply 1 pound of nitrogen at those calculated rates.

This same calculation can be applied to other fertilizer materials.

Examples:

1)	Ammonium nitrate (33% N)
–	100	=	3 lbs. of ammonium nitrate will supply 1 lb. N
–	33
(2)	20% superphosphate (P2O5)
–	100	=	5 lbs. of superphosphate will supply 1 lb. P2O5.
–	20

These rates can be converted to a per-acre basis by multiplying by 43.5. Per-acre rates can likewise be converted to per-1,000 square feet by dividing by 43.5.

• 10 pounds of 10-10-10 per 1,000 square feet equals 10 x 43.5 = 435 pounds per acre.
• 435 pounds of 10-10-10 per acre equals 435 divided by 43.5 = 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

---

Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 138

Source(s): Will Hudson, Extension Entomologist, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

---

Georgia lawns are under attack. Fall armyworms are chewing their way through turf, leaving destruction in their wake.

Fall armyworms are the larval or caterpillar stage of a nondescript, small gray moth which overwinters in Florida and the tropics. Each year, storms bring the adult moths north. The females lay masses of up to 700 eggs on just about everything. The eggs are cream-colored at first, but turn darker as the tiny caterpillars get ready to hatch.

The first battalion of females lays eggs in south Georgia. Succeeding generations march up the state, traveling on weather fronts and storms. Fall armyworms can’t overwinter in north Georgia. They may survive a mild winter in Florida and extreme south Georgia. The caterpillars hatch from eggs in two to four days, depending on the temperature. Eggs develop to fully grown larvae in two to four weeks. The larvae burrow into the soil and form pupae. Moths emerge in about 14 days.

The first sign that enemy armyworms are near might be large clusters of birds on your lawn. Look closer at the grass, and you may see several caterpillars munching on the turf blades. Although birds eat armyworm caterpillars, they are no match for hundreds of them on one lawn. When hundreds or thousands of armyworms are present, however, homeowners may opt to kill worms with an insecticide .

Young armyworms are one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch long. Mature ones are one and a half inches long. They are dark, with several light stripes down the length of the body. The head or “face” has an inverted Y on it. If you suspect your turf is being infiltrated but can’t find the caterpillars on the grass, use a soap flush to bring them to the surface.

Armyworms rarely kill grass, but some lawns may be severely weakened. Feeding damage, coupled with damage from the recent drought, may justify applying insecticides. In turf or pastures, finding five caterpillars per square foot is a signal to start treating for fall armyworms. Carbaryl (Sevin), pyrethroids and other recommended insecticides are effective caterpillar killers.

Products containing Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) are effective only on little (a half-inch or smaller) worms. Irrigate before treating, to move the caterpillars out of the thatch. Treat in late afternoon, when the caterpillars are likely to begin feeding. If possible, mow before you treat, and then don’t mow for three days after the treatment.

For information on identifying armyworms, contact your local UGA Cooperative Extension office. See the Georgia Pest Management Handbook for more information on controlling fall armyworms.

---

Resource(s): Insect Pests of Ornamentals

Center Publication Number: 119

Source(s): Jacob G Price

---

Fairy Ring (Clamp fungi mushrooms and approximately 50 Genera species of fungi) Fairy ring is caused by many types of basidiomycetes most of which produce mushrooms after heavy rains usually during late summer or early fall. Fairy ring can enlarge and cause severe damage or death to turfgrass. All turfgrasses are susceptible.

Disease Cycle

It is not known if the fungus begins by a piece of mycelium or by a spore. The fungus lives by decomposing organic matter in thatch or soil and moving radially outward. White thread-like mycelium from the fungus can grow 6 inches or more into the soil and form a hydrophobic mat which prevents water and nutrients from being absorbed by turfgrass roots. Fairy ring may also inhibit or kill turfgrass by releasing nitrogen from decomposed organic matter, which can cause a lethal accumulation of ammonia. Fairy rings may also produce toxic levels of hydrogen cyanide, directly infect roots, and weaken turf making it venerable to other diseases.

Symptoms

Dark green circular or semi-circular rings appear as a result of the fungus decomposing organic matter and making nitrogen available to the turfgrass. This usually occurs in dry sandy soils with a high quantity of buried organic matter such as stumps, leaves, and branches. Rings can persist for several years and increase in size each year.

Control

Fairy ring can be difficult to control. Core aerate the infected area or spike it with a pitch fork and water thoroughly before sunrise to leach fungal toxins deeper into the soil. Wetting agents will help better distribute the water into the soil. This will help break the hydrophobic mat of mycelium. ProStar 70WP used as labeled will help control Fairy ring if combined with the above practices.

---

Resource(s):

• Turfgrass Diseases
• Common Landscape Diseases in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 63

Source(s): Laurene Hall

---

Leaf spot is a common descriptive term applied to a number of diseases affecting the foliage of ornamentals and shade trees. The majority of the leaf spots are caused by a variety of fungal pathogens, but some are caused by bacteria.

Leaf diseases, including rusts and various types of leaf spots are abundant at this time of year. The good news is these foliage diseases usually reduce only the aesthetic value of the affected tree. Occasionally, however, a severe outbreak may cause early leaf drop and dieback of tree parts. With repeated infection, trees become more susceptible to attack by other diseases, insects, and winter injury.
Correct identification is important, because leaf spot diseases can be easily confused with non-disease problems such as leaf scorch or other environmental abnormalities. If in doubt, bring a sample for identification to your County Cooperative Extension Service.

IDENTIFICATION

The primary symptom of a leaf spot disease is spots on foliage. The spots will vary in size and color depending on the plant affected the specific organism involved,and the stage of development. Spots can vary in color from red, purplish-brown, tan, or black. Concentric rings or a dark margin around the spot may be present. Fungal bodies may appear as black dots in the center of the spots. Over time the spots may combine to enlarge to form blotches. Leaves may yellow and drop prematurely.
Leaf rust is another common problem associated with fungal leaf diseases. It is characterized by yellow spots on the upper leaf surface. Close examination reveals small yellow-orange bumps filled with powdery spores on the leaves. As with leaf spot, rust infestations will become apparent in mid to late August.

APPEARANCE

Active in late spring to late autumn. The fungal and bacterial agents that cause Leaf diseases often exist naturally in the air and in our soils. The organisms that cause leaf spots survive in fallen infected leaves and twigs. Some may remain in dead twigs on the tree. During wet weather, spores are released which may splash or be windblown onto newly emerging tender leaves where they germinate in the moisture and infect the leaf. Overhead watering late in the day or during the night, heavy dews and close spacing of plants prolong wetting of the leaf surface and provide more opportunities for fungal or bacterial infections.

HOSTS

All species of trees, shrubs, and other ornamental plants can potentially develop leaf spots, but some species are more susceptible than others. It is the presence of the correct factors that will decide whether or not a plant will develop a Leaf disease from causal agents.
Three critical factors or conditions must exist for disease to occur — a SUSCEPTIBLE HOST, a PATHOGEN, and the right combination of POOR ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS. The relationship of these factors is called the DISEASE TRIANGLE.
If only a part of the triangle exists, disease will not occur. Understanding the disease triangle helps us understand why most plants are not affected by the many thousands of diseases that exist.
In some cases, it is important to only acquire specific varieties of plants that exhibit a resistance to diseases that are particularly fatal.

INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT (IPM) CONTROL

Live with the disease. Leaf spots are largely an aesthetic problem as few leaf spots seriously damage the host. Here are some steps to follow that will help control the disease after the infection has started.

1. Remove infected leaves and dead twigs. The fungi responsible for these diseases survive the winter in leaf debris on the ground. Wet spring weather stimulates spore production. The spores are blown and splashed from the ground to developing leaves. Foliage diseases are cyclic: bad years coincide with long-term moist weather. Raking up and disposing of infected leaves as they drop and pruning out dead twigs can help control the disease by removing spores that can re-infect the new leaves. This will not cure the problem but it can help minimize infections.
2. Keep foliage dry. Avoid overhead watering. Use soaker hoses or water early in the day so the foliage can dry before night. Watering can also spread the disease by splashing. Prune plants and space plants to allow for good air circulation that promotes rapid drying of foliage.
3. Keep plants healthy. Since most plants can tolerate some defoliation, keep them in good health so they can rebound quickly. Avoid over fertilization as it promotes a flush of young leaves that are more susceptible to attack by insects and disease.
4. Replace the plant. For plants that chronically are plagued by leaf spots, gardeners find it more convenient to replace a plant with a different species or a variety that is more resistant or tolerant of disease.

CHEMICAL CONTROLS

Use fungicides wisely. Chemical control is usually not necessary and often unsuccessful if the fungicide is not applied properly. It is usually impractical and not economically feasible for homeowners to spray fungicides on trees. This is because many trees that are affected by leaf diseases are well-established and too large to spray. Additionally, mature trees may naturally develop leaf diseases more frequently as a result of the stress of old age; consequently, if healthy enough, the tree may recover from a leaf disease on its own and without a homeowner’s intervention. In rare cases of severe infection where the size and value of plants make it practical, applications of fungicides may be helpful.

Generally fungicidal control is warranted if:

1. repeated defoliations occur in one year or subsequent years;
2. the plant is under stress or in serious decline and showing no signs of recovery with improved environmental conditions;
3. or there is serious danger of infection spreading rampantly to other uninfected plants.

Sprays will not cure the infection but protect leaves from becoming infected. To be effective, fungicidal sprays must begin at bud break before symptoms are noted and be continued at intervals specified by the label (usually 10-14 days) through the period of spring rains. Spraying after the infection is present will provide little benefit. Recommendations will vary with the disease and fungicide used. It is always good practice to have the disease identified before purchasing a control product. If you think your plant is suffering from a Leaf disease, bring a sample of the leaves on a branch with both healthy and diseased tissue to the Extension Office for proper diagnosis. A fungicide recommendation may be given if the problem cannot be corrected by cultural IPM practices. Always carefully follow label directions when applying chemicals and wear protective clothing if necessary.

---

Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 47

Source(s): Will G. Hudson, Extension Entomologist, The University of Georgia

---

Lovebugs are small black flies with red thoraxes. They are members of the family Bibionidae. Several species of this family are native to the southeast, but lovebugs, Plecia nearctica, are relatively recent invaders from the west.

Southern Louisiana experienced flights of lovebugs during the 1920’s. First reports of their presence in Florida were made in 1947 from Escambia County. Since that time, flights have progressively moved southward. In 1974, specimens were collected in the Homestead area of south Florida. Lovebugs also have moved northward and infest parts of all states bordering the Gulf of Mexico, as well as Georgia and South Carolina.

Two flights of lovebugs occur each year. The spring flight occurs during late April and May, with a second flight during late August and September. Flights extend over a period of 4 to 5 weeks but individual adults live only 2 – 3 days. Mating takes place almost immediately after emergence.

Female lovebugs lay from 100 to 350 eggs. Larvae (immature stages) feed on decaying plant material, particularly in damp areas. They perform a beneficial function by helping recycle organic matter. After larvae mature, they pupate at the soil surface.

Lovebugs do not sting or bite. They feed on the nectar of various flowers. Adult flights are restricted to daylight hours (generally beginning around 10 AM) and temperatures above 68EF. The adults tend to congregate in open, sunny areas and are attracted to some components of automobile exhaust. At night, lovebugs rest on low-growing vegetation.

Lovebugs are a considerable nuisance to motorists. They congregate along highways and splatter on the windshields and grills of trucks and automobiles. Vision can be obscured, and the bugs can clog radiator fins causing vehicles to overheat. A screen placed in front of the grill will keep the radiator fins from clogging, and will protect the front of the car. Splattered bugs should be washed off as soon as possible. Soaking for several minutes with water makes the mess easier to remove. When the remains are left on a car for several days, the finish may be permanently damaged.

A number of insecticides have been evaluated for effectiveness in controlling lovebug larvae and adults. Most of the insecticides were effective in controlling the adults, and several controlled the immature stages. However, insecticidal control of the lovebug is impractical because infestations occur over such a vast area and adults are so mobile that retreatment would be required every few hours to keep a roadway clear. Most commonly available household insecticides will control adults in confined areas such as entryways and porches. Your county Extension Agent can help with the choice of materials for this purpose.

Lovebugs are not without enemies in nature. Larvae are found in extremely high numbers in pastures and other grassy areas, and make attractive prey for certain bird predators including robins and quail. Laboratory studies using invertebrate predators found in lovebug-infested pastures indicated they were voracious predators also. These included earwigs, beetle larvae and a centipede.

Lovebug populations may vary considerably from year to year, and some years are much worse than others. The reasons for these fluctuations are not known.

---

Center Publication Number: 197

Source(s): Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, The University of Georgia

---

From time to time, concerned citizens try to pressure lawmakers to eliminate phosphorus from lawn fertilizers. They mean well.They’re looking out for our water resources.

Unfortunately, they don’t understand how phosphorus enters aquatic systems or its role in plants and its behavior in soil systems. They fail to understand, too, that phosphorus is an essential nutrient. It’s a “must have” for plants to grow.

Soil phosphorus levels aren’t static, either. Low levels of phosphorus have to be applied each year to maintain proper soil nutritional balances.

Besides, applying phosphorus carefully while using “Best Management Practices” can greatly ease the environmental concerns.

Especially here

You have to apply phosphorus in the Southeast. Because it’s hotter and wetter here with a longer growing season than in most of the country, Southeastern soils have less phosphorus than in other regions.

And plants can’t do without it. It’s the second-most essential element, behind nitrogen, for plants’ growth. And plant roots readily extract it from the soil.

Phosphorus is in such high demand because plants use it in the metabolic processes of energy transfer. So it has to be added back to the soil for plants to keep growing well.

Too much of a good thing

In excess amounts, though, phosphorus can harm the environment. That’s especially true when it runs off into streams, ponds or lakes.

Aquatic plant life must have a balance of nutrients. But high phosphorus levels stimulate excessive growth of aquatic plants and algae.

The problem is that when this excessive plant life dies and decays, the process takes oxygen from the water. And when oxygen levels drop, fish and other aquatic animals die.

Pollution solution

It’s important to remember that the way most phosphorus reaches water bodies is in soil erosion. Nonpoint-source pollution of water bodies can be greatly reduced by managing soil erosion.

Of the phosphorus lost to lakes and streams through soil erosion, 75 percent to 90 percent is fixed to soil and organic matter. This fixed phosphorus has been shown to contribute to the growth of algae.

Turf grasses, which need phosphorus to grow well, can help the environment. Turf will greatly slow the flow of water across the soil surface and effectively reduce soil erosion.

A cover of turf will allow water to gradually infiltrate into soil, too. Once soluble phosphorus enters the soil, it’s quickly bound to soil solids and organic matter and becomes relatively harmless.

BMP’s

Nonpoint-source pollution from phosphorus can best be controlled by using best management practices.

Soil testing is one BMP that can help. But you have to use proper soil-sampling techniques. Your county University of Georgia Extension office can help you with this.

In general, it’s best to apply phosphorus according to soil test results. There are exceptions. A fertilizer with low rates of phosphorus may help a turf grass that’s stressed by cold or wet soil, for instance, or when root-rotting diseases have damaged the roots.

A second BMP is the use of fertilizers with low phosphorus levels. Many modern lawn fertilizers have been engineered to meet the needs of most turf grasses.

It’s not uncommon to see products with analyses like 29-3-4 or 27-4-4, in which the content is around 1 part phosphorus for every 8 to 11 parts nitrogen. Zero-analysis phosphorus fertilizers are also available.

A third BMP to keep phosphorus out of water resources is to not apply fertilizer to hard surfaces such as driveways, sidewalks and streets.

Remember, when water-soluble phosphorus contacts soil and organic matter, it quickly becomes immobile in the soil. So just sweeping or power blowing fertilizer that lands on hard surfaces can greatly reduce the amount of phosphorus moving through storm-water systems into reservoirs.

---

Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia
Center Publication Number: 152

Source(s): Gary R Peiffer

Everything of an organic nature will compost, but not everything belongs in your home compost pile.

The following is a list of compostable materials:
Food		Other
Apples and apple peels	Cucumbers	Algae (pond weeds)	Leather waste and dust
Artichoke leaves	Egg shells (crushed)	Apple pomace (cider press waste)	Leaf mold
Asparagus bottoms	Grapes	Blood meal	Leaves
Bananas and peels	Grapefruit	Bone meal	Muck (marsh and swamp mud)
Beans	Lettuce	Corn stalks	Peanut hulls
Beet tops	Lemons	Cotton rags	Peat moss
Berries	Melons	Feathers	Pine needles (chopped)
Bread	Onions	Felt waste	Rope
Broccoli stalks	Oats	Flowers	Sawdust
Brussel Sprouts	Pears	Garden wastes (trimmings, plant remains)	Seaweed
Buckwheat hulls	Pineapple	Grape plant waste	Soil
Cabbage stalks and outer leaves	Potatoes	Granite dust	Straw
Carrot tops and scrapings	Pumpkins	Grass	String
Celery tops	Squashes	Hair	Weeds
Citrus rinds	Tea leaves and bags	Hay	Wood ash
Coffee grounds (and filters)	Turnips	Hops, spent	Wool rags
Corn cobs (chopped	Zucchini

Do not compost meats, fats and dairy products including:
Butter	Lard	Salad dressing
Bones	Mayonnaise	Sour cream
Cheese	Meat scraps	Vegetable oil
Chicken	Milk	Yogurt
Fish scraps	Peanut Butter

Common Organic Wastes You Can Compost (from around the community)
Coffee wastes – every restaurant has coffee grounds. Ask if they will save their grounds for you to pick up.	Leaves – you’ll find these bagged and waiting at neighbor’s curbside.
Food scraps – minus meat, bones, dairy or fatty foods. Ask your greengrocer or supermarket for their wastes.	Sawdust – don’t use any kind of treated lumber as it may contain toxic material.
Grass Clippings – are plentiful; landscapers are always trying to get rid of these.	Wood chips – a tree service may deliver a load if you are willing to take a large uantity. Use first on garden paths, then compost it after the initial decay.
Hair – very high in nitrogen

 

Non-Compostable Organic Materials
Everything of an organic nature will compost, but not everything belongs in your home compost pile. Some materials that create problems include:
Certain grasses with a rhizomatous root system, such as crabgrass. These may not be killed by the heat of decomposition and can choke out other plants when compost is used in the garden.	Plants infected with a disease or a severe insect attack where eggs could be preserved or where the insects themselves could survive in spite of the compost pile’s heat (examples are apple scab, aphids, tent caterpillars….).
Cat and dog manures, which can contain pathogens. These pathogens are not always killed in the heat of the compost pile.	Plants which take too long to break down, such as rhododendron and English Laurel leaves.

Several types of compost bins can be seen at the Fernbank Science Center Compost Garden, 186 Heaton Park Drive, Atlanta, GA 30307. The DeKalb County Extension Service has several compost demonstration sites throughout the county. 

---

Resource(s): Composting and Mulching

Center Publication Number: 20