Month: September 2013

Source(s): Michele Browne, Former Horticulture Program Assistant – Cobb County Extension.

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Christmas cacti, popular as houseplants, are readily available at florists, garden centers, and hardware and mass marketing stores to brighten Georgia homes during the dark winter. Many are sold already in bloom. With a little care, these plants will flower again during the following year.

Types of Christmas Cacti

The three common flowering “Christmas type” cacti are:

• Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii)
  • Pointed lobed leaves
  • Flowers from Thanksgiving to Christmas
• Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncatus)
• Easter cactus (Physaledopsis gaetner)
  • Wider rounded leaves
  • Flowers from Christmas to Easter

Home Care of Christmas Cacti

All types of Christmas cacti require similar home care, including:

• Well-drained soil composed of
  • 3 parts compost, bark chips, or bark compost
  • 2 parts sand
  • 1 part peat moss
• Complete fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) in an occasional light application
• Normal house temperatures during flowering

Setting Buds and Stimulating Flowers

Buds begin to form in early autumn as days shorten and temperatures drop. Flower buds seldom form at night temperatures above 70°F.

To set flower buds, provide one of these conditions:

• Reduce night temperatures to 50-55°F

OR

• Reduce night temperatures to 60-75°F and protect from sun and electric lights from September to November, supply 12-14 uninterrupted hours of darkness (such as in a storage area or an infrequently used room).

Before Flowering

Before flowering, provide bright light or full sun. Fertilize with 20-10-20. Stop fertilizer 6 to 8 weeks

New Growth After Flowering

After flowering, the new growth creates the buds for next year’s flowers. Continue with sun and resume fertilizer.

Outdoor Cultivation

For cacti growing outdoors, in mid-August reduce water and fertilizer to harden off new growth. This slows the plant’s metabolism, storing carbohydrates in the plant and discouraging further growth. Water sparingly from this time until next flowering.

Propagation

Flowering cacti easily propagate from leaf cuttings at any time of year. Allow three joints per cutting. Place two or three cuttings in each 3 1/2″ pot. Keep at 70°F.

Problems

Insects and diseases are rare.

Causes of flower drop include:

• Too much water
• Too little water
• Radical change in environment, such as greenhouse to home.

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Center Publication Number: 6

Source(s): Michael T. Mengak, Ph.D., Associate Professor and Wildlife Outreach Specialist, Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources, The University of Georgia.

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The Eastern Chipmunk is one of the smaller members of the squirrel family, measuring 8 to 10 inches long. Chipmunks are primarily ground dwellers, but they do climb trees and shrubs for food and protection when necessary. They may be identified by the three dark dorsal stripes on the otherwise reddish-brown coat and by its habit of running with its tail sticking straight up in the air.

Chipmunks and their Behavior

Chipmunks are quick in movements and very alert to danger. They prefer open wooded areas with plenty of food-producing trees and bushes. Food and protection offered by shrubbery, flowers, gardens and various types of landscaping attract chipmunks; and it is in these conditions that most problems arise. The cute, playful little creature then becomes a pest that threatens the appearance and the well-being of a home.

The Eastern Chipmunk has an extensive burrow system that may be 30 feet or more in length with one or more hollowed out cavities where young are reared. Openings are usually at the bases of stumps or fallen logs or beside large stones or walls. Entrances and exits of the burrow system are kept free of excavated dirt.

Chipmunks eat grain (corn), nuts (acorns), seeds (sunflower or other seed in a bird seed mix), mushrooms, insects (caterpillars) and some carrion (dead animal tissue), although this is a rare item in their diet.

Damage

Chipmunks are territorial and rarely become abundant enough to cause a lot of damage. Individuals will gnaw into bags containing dog food or bird seed. They will also dig up and consume flower bulbs. Occasionally they will gnaw the bark from shrubbery.

Repellents

Naphthalene crystals (“mothballs”) may repel chipmunks from sheds, attics or summer cabins. The quantity required is usually so great that the odor is offensive to humans. There are no registered repellents for chipmunks. Taste repellents containing bitrex, thiram or ammonium soaps of higher fatty acids can be applied to landscape plants. Products such as Ro-Pel®, Hinder®, Big Game Repellent® or This-1-Works® are commercially available from garden supply stores, feed stores and forestry catalogs. There are no fumigants or toxicants registered for controlling chipmunks.

Trapping

Trapping is the easiest method to control chipmunks. The large wooden base snap traps used in rat control are effective in chipmunk control. Peanut butter alone or mixed with oatmeal makes good bait. Place traps along runways at burrow openings or in other areas of chipmunk activity. Place snap traps perpendicular to the wall or near burrow entrances. Homeowners can use live traps such as Havahart (No. 0) or Tomahawk (No. 102). Garden and feed stores generally sell these traps.

Exclusion

Exclude chipmunks from buildings whenever possible. Seal holes where gas lines, cooling lines or cable TV enter the house. Use caulking or ¼ inch welded wire. Attach a homemade screen to the bottom of a clothes dryer vent if the vent is near the ground.

Shooting

If safe to do so, shooting can be effective. Use only a .22 caliber rifle with pellets or an air rifle (BB gun). Check local ordinances. It is often illegal to discharge any firearms inside city limits.

Legal Status

ALL non-game wildlife is protected in Georgia. Therefore, it is illegal to kill any species unless specifically permitted by regulations such as hunting and fishing laws. Check with your local conservation office. Generally, homeowners can protect their property from mammals causing or about to cause damage. This does not allow citizens to kill wildlife out of season or in violation of federal, state or local laws or ordinances. Contact police or local Wildlife Resource Division personnel.

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Reviewer(s): Michael T. Mengak, Ph.D., Associate Professor and Wildlife Outreach Specialist, Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources, The University of Georgia, July 2006.

Center Publication Number: 211

Source(s): Will Hudson, Extension Entomologist, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

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The two-lined spittlebug is an increasingly common pest of Georgia turf grasses. It will feed on all turfgrasses, but it hits centipede turf especially hard.

 

Both adults and nymphs feed on the plants by inserting their needle-like beaks into the stem and sucking out the juices. This causes the grass to yellow, wither and die if it goes unchecked.

The symptoms are similar to the damage caused by chinch bugs. But spittlebug adults are much more mobile. The damage tends to be spread out, rather than concentrated.

Spittlebugs overwinter as eggs in plant stems, under leaf sheaths or in plant debris.

Nymphs hatch in the spring and begin feeding. They exude a white, frothy mass around them that resembles spittle. It serves to protect the nymphs from drying out and from natural enemies.

The nymphs feed for about a month before becoming adults. Adults live for about three weeks and lay eggs for the last two weeks of that time. The eggs take two weeks to hatch in the summer. Two generations hatch each year.

Adult two-lined spittlebugs are about a quarter-inch long and black to dark brown. They have two bright, red or orange lines across their wings. Nymphs resemble small, wingless adults. They’re white to yellowish orange with red eyes and a brown head.

Early damage symptoms will look like yellow spots of dead or dying grass. With heavy infestations, these spots may overlap to form large areas of dead turf.

The nymphs are easily detected. Just look on the grass stems near the soil surface for their distinctive spittle masses. Adults fly readily when disturbed and can be flushed from the grass by walking through affected areas.

It’s been reported that spittlebug adults can damage a variety of ornamental plants, too, particularly during late summer and fall, when populations are at their highest levels. The ornamental plants they prefer include hollies, asters and morning glory.

Spittlebug infestations can be controlled with several commonly available turf insecticides. Use plenty of water to apply the insecticide. This volume is easily achieved with a hose-end sprayer, but not with a hydraulic sprayer pulled behind a lawn tractor.

Contact your county University of Georgia Extension Service for recommendations.

Take steps to reduce the buildup of thatch. Nymphs need high humidity to survive. Turf with excessive thatch is much more likely to provide them the conditions they need.

Following good turf management practices, too, can make infestations or reinfestations less likely.

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Resource(s):

Insect Pests of Ornamental Plants

Center Publication Number: 94

Source(s): Jacob G Price

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Introduction

Chamberbitter is a summer annual weed that is commonly found in turfgrass and ornamentals that emerges in great numbers in July. It is native to Asia but found throughout Georgia, Florida, Alabama, and Texas. It is in the spurge family and reproduces by numerous seeds which are found in the fruit attached to the underside of the branch.

Description

Chamberbitter is a small erect plant with angled or grooved stems. The leaves are thin and have smooth margins. Leaves are also oblong and arranged in alternating rows of two on the branch. It is easily identified by the small round fruit on the undersides of the stems.

Control: Turfgrass

For centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass, Gallery and Atrazine are labeled as a preemergence control. Apply between April and May. For postemergence control use Atrazine at recommended rates on St. Augustinegrass and Centipedegrass. Apply two applications spread three weeks apart. As an alternative, “Prompt’ (BASF, contains atrazine + bentazon),may be used at recommended rates. Again, two applications spread three weeks apart.

Control: Ornamentals

Preemergence options are Ronstar 2G, Snapshot, Factor, and Gallery. Apply in March and re-apply 2-3 months later. This is a difficult weed to control in ornamentals, therefore two applications of one or more of the above products will be necessary. Pre-emergence herbicides will not be totally effective. There are no postemergence over-the-top controls in ornamentals. Direct applications of Roundup Pro or Finale (without contact of ornamental foliage) along with supplemental hand-weeding will control this weed. Additionally, research has shown that chamberbitter seeds require light in order to germinate. An adequate layer of mulch will block sunlight and help to limit the presence of this weed in ornamentals.

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Resource(s):

• Georgia Turf
• Weed Management

Center Publication Number: 67

Source(s): Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, The University of Georgia

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The two basic types of equipment used to apply granular fertilizers or pesticides to lawns are drop spreaders and rotary spreaders. Drop spreaders provide an easy and efficient means of applying granular pesticides and fertilizers with precision accuracy. Rotary spreaders are typically preferred when applying products to larger areas.

Newer models of rotary spreaders have a deflector shield for improved edging around ornamental beds or hard, impervious surfaces. However, you may have to adjust port openings to compensate for a change in distribution. So check the calibration before using deflector shields.

The application rate and distribution pattern are affected by the spreader design, the product (especially weight and density), environmental conditions (wind, temperature, and humidity) and the operator (speed).

Each material will have its own “effective” distribution pattern, so calibrate the spreader for each product being applied. As with all spreaders and sprayers, constant calibration is necessary to assure proper distribution and delivery rate. Consult the owner’s manual for proper calibration and maintenance.

Use it correctly

To use your rotary spreaders properly:

• Choose a spreader that’s easy to fill and clean, to minimize spills. Make sure the ports (the bottom holes the material falls through) are closed before filling the spreader. And use a cover, especially in uneven terrain.
• Calibrate and know the “effective” swath width for each material being applied. This will determine the proper overlap. When possible, use flags or other markers to track the effective swath width.
• Walk at a constant speed — 3 miles per hour is typically recommended.
• Keep the impeller (the part that “slings” the material) level and parallel to the ground. Tipping the spreader too far can result in uneven spreading.
• Apply materials while moving forward. Start walking before opening the gate of the spreader, and close the gate before stopping. And avoid sharp turns which make the application uneven. Turn off the spreader before making a turn.
• To avoid skips and streaks, split the rate and apply in two directions perpendicular to each other. Make a lap around the perimeter, and then fill in the interior of the area.
• Avoid applying fertilizer or pesticide to nontarget areas (driveways, roads, bodies of water). Blow or sweep material from hard, impermeable surfaces into the turf area.
• After use, empty the unused material into its original container and wash the spreader thoroughly in an area where the rinse water can’t get into the storm sewage.
• Grease and oil all moving spreader parts as recommended by the manufacturer. Check and maintain proper tire pressure.

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Resource(s):

Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 145

Source(s): Holly Thornton

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There are many fungal leaf spot pathogens that affect a very wide range of host plants. One very common leaf spot on hydrangea is Cercospora leaf spot caused by the fungal pathogen, Cercospora hydrangeae.

This fungal leaf spot can affect most hydrangeas and is generally an aesthetic issue for homeowners. The pathogen will rarely kill the plant but can reduce plant vigor by defoliation. It is generally more problematic in low maintenance landscape situations or when homeowners overhead irrigate their plants.

Depending on the type of hydrangea (oakleaf, bigleaf, etc.), the leaf spot symptoms may vary. Spotting generally begins at the base of the plant on older leaves and works its’ way up the plant. The spots are generally small, circular, and scattered across the leaf surface. They tend to have tan centers and dark brown or purple borders (see images). The leaf spots can oftentimes be irregular or angular shaped.

Verifying the presence of this particular fungal pathogen is very straightforward.

1. Place the leaf under the dissecting scope;
2. Look for the presence of tiny black structures within the tan/black/purple leaf spots;
3. Using your scalpel, pick several of those tiny black structures and place on a prepared microscope slide (place a small droplet of water or acid fuchsin on the center of the slide);
4. Place a coverslip over the droplet;
5. Using the compound microscope, search for spores of the fungal pathogen (see below).

Cercospora sp. conidia generally vary in size, but are usually hyaline (clear) elongated (filiform) and several- celled. The conidia are borne on dark, clustered conidiophores that appear to burst out of the leaf spots. Below are drawings of the fungal conidia from the Illustrated Genera of Imperfect Fungi (4th edition).

Once the presence of this fungal disease is verified, it is important to stress to the homeowner the following about the survival and management of this fungal pathogen:

• The fungus survives in fallen diseased leaves that remain on the ground. Therefore, sanitation to remove the dying and diseased leaves will help prevent subsequent infections or outbreaks.
• The conidia of the fungus are spread by splashing water. This can be from rain, which is impossible to control, or from overhead irrigation. It is important to minimize the amount of leaf wetness. If at all possible, install soaker hoses or drip irrigation to prevent water-splash on the leaves. If your lawn irrigation system just barely hits the hydrangeas, then, yes, this will be problematic and can create an environment that supports the reproduction and growth of this fungal pathogen. Late summer rains can also perpetuate this disease.
• In severe cases, as previously mentioned, defoliation can occur, which reduces vigor and growth of the plant.
• Fungicide applications are rarely warranted due to the fact that the symptoms usually do not appear until late summer. Protectant fungicides are available for homeowners who just have to spray something or for severe cases of this fungal leaf spot. They include (listed by active ingredient): Chlorothalonil, Myclobutanil, Mancozeb, and Thiophanate-methyl. Begin spraying when spotting is first seen and follow the label for repeat applications (usually every 10-14 days).

References

• Illustrated Genera of Imperfect Fungi. 4th edition. Barnett and Hunter.
• Diseases of Hydrangea. ACES Publication. ANR-1212. 2001.

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Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 269

Source(s): Mark A. Halcomb, UT Area Nursery Specialist, Warren County Ag. Extension Service.

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Summer Oils

A summer oil is a light-weight, highly refined, paraffinic (rather than naphthenic or aromatic) petroleum product that is used as an insecticide and miticide in spring or summer on growing plants. Summer oil is lighter than dormant oil sprays but is still effective on mites and soft-bodied insects. It kills all life stages including eggs, which most miticides will not do. Insects do not build resistance. Summer oil sprays still have a potential to damage desirable plants and effects vary by plant species. Please follow the precautions listed below and on the product label. When in doubt spray only small areas until you are sure of its effects.
The ultra-fine horticultural oils are safer for plants because they evaporate faster and leave less residue. While they are more expensive than some of the dormant oils that also have a summer use rate, the ultra-fine oils are much less phytotoxic. It is also safer to apply oils on bright, clear, sunny days when the humidity is low in order to get faster evaporation. Faster evaporation means less chance of phytotoxicity.

Avoid spraying during prolonged periods of combined high heat and humidity. High humidity slows the evaporation process, which could increase the oil’s phytotoxicity. Apply in the cooler parts of the day. Choose days with lower temperatures and lower humidity.

Thorough coverage is essential and can not be overly stressed. A 2% solution for scale in the summer is recommended. Oil and water separate rapidly. Constant agitation is required. If a sprayer has been idle for a few minutes, be sure to spray into the tank for a minute if using a handgun; or turn an airblast on several feet from the crop, to ensure that the oil is thoroughly mixed . Otherwise, the emulsion in the hose and tips will have separated and the first plants sprayed may receive either pure water or pure oil. The oil will burn.

Plant Reactions

Local grower experience discovered that oil applied during the summer stunted maple growth. I thought the concern on maple was being positive they were dormant before applying dormant oil. It appears that Autumn Purple ash is sensitive. One producer had severe branch and trunk die-back after several applications. A Rutgers University Extension publication lists Japanese maple, ‘October Glory’ red maple, silver, and sugar maple as being somewhat sensitive to oil applications in the summer. It says to reduce the concentration of the oil. Sources vary a great deal on sensitive plants.

Oil-sensitive plants are injured by oils when applied at normal rates under seasonal conditions. Plants classified as displaying a tendency toward sensitivity have not been damaged, but reports of some injuries warrant a cautionary note. Except for eastern black walnut, butternut and some cultivars of cryptomeria, all other oil-sensitive plants can be sprayed with a reduced rate. – Dr. Warren T. Johnson, Professor of Entomology at Cornell University, pgs. 78- 83, Am. Nurseryman mag. Jan 1, 1991 issue.

Oil-Sensitive Plants:

Acer (maple) – Dormant
Carya (hickory) – Dormant
Cryptomeria (cryptomeria) – Any time
Juglans nigra (black walnut) – Any time
Juglans cinerea (butternut) – Any time
Picea glauca var. albertiana (Alberta spruce) – Late summer
Rhododendron (limited azaleas) – Summer
Rubus (bramble) – Summer

Tendency Toward Sensitivity:

Cercis canadensis (redbud) – Dormant
Chamaecyparis (false cypress) – Summer
Fagus (beech) – Dormant
Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly) – Summer, dormant
Juniperus sabina (savin juniper) – Spring, summer
Juniperus virginiana (Eastern red cedar) – Spring, summer
Photinia (photinia) – Summer
Picea abies (Norway spruce) – Dormant
Picea glauca (white spruce) – Dormant
Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas fir) – Dormant, flowering time

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Center Publication Number: 207

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

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Perhaps the most important factor in developing and maintaining an attractive and problem-free lawn is to choose a grass that is adapted to your area and has the qualities you desire. Centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass are grown primarily in central, south, and coastal areas of Georgia.

Centipede

Centipede Grass(Eremochloa ophiuroides). This is a low, medium textured, slow growing but aggressive grass that can produce a dense, attractive, weed-free turf. It is more shade tolerant than bermudagrass but less shade tolerant than St. Augustine and zoysiagrass. Since centipede produces only surface runners, it is easily controlled around borders of flower beds and walks. It is well adapted as far north as Atlanta and Athens.

Centipede is the ideal grass for the homeowner who wants a fairly attractive lawn that needs little care. Centipede does not require much fertilizer or mowing, and compared to other lawn grasses, is generally resistant to most insects and diseases. It will, however, respond to good management and provide a very attractive turf. Centipede can be established from either seeds or sprigs. Since it is slow growing, it takes longer than bermuda and St. Augustine to completely cover.

Centipede is subject to “decline” problems that can be prevented by proper management. This includes care not to over fertilize, prevention of thatch accumulation, irrigation during drought stress, particularly in the fall, and maintaining a mowing height of 1-1 1/2 inches. Centipede is well adapted to soils of low fertility with a pH of 5.0 to 6.0 but grows best — like most grasses — at a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5. For additional information see Cooperative Extension Service Leaflets No. 313, Centipede Lawns, and No. 177, Prevent Centipede Decline.

St. Augustine

St. Augustinegrass(Stenotaphrum secundatum). Compared to finer textured grasses like the bermudas, St. Augustine has large flat stems and broad coarse leaves. It has an attractive blue-green color and forms a deep, fairly dense turf. It spreads by long above-ground runners or stolons. While it is aggressive, it is easily controlled around borders. It produces only a few viable seed and is commonly planted by vegetative means.

St. Augustine is the most shade tolerant warm-season grass in Georgia. It is very susceptible to winter injury and should only be planted with caution as far north as Atlanta and Athens. Perhaps the greatest disadvantage of this grass is its sensitivity to the chinch bug. While insecticides can control this insect, frequent applications are required.

The more common St. Augustinegrass varieties are Bitter Blue, Floratine and Floratam. Bitter Blue has the best shade tolerance but is sensitive to chinch bugs and St. Augustine Decline Virus (SADV). Floratine has the finest leaf texture but is also susceptible to chinch bugs and SADV. Floratam has the coarsest leaf texture, is resistant to chinch bug and SADV, but is not as shade tolerant as the others.

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Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 126

Source(s): Kim D. Coder, Professor of Community Forestry, Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources, The University of Georgia

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During times of water shortage, slightly used gray water can provide an alternative landscape irrigation source. Separating slightly used (gray) water from sewage (black water) makes good conservation sense.

Daily, homeowners misuse or waste an average of 33 percent of valuable drinking water. Most of this water misuse is for diluting toilet, sink and laundry wastes and from slightly used sink, shower and laundry water. Every day we use many gallons of drinkable water for purposes like landscape irrigation, which could employ gray water.

Gray water is water that can be used twice. It includes the discharge from kitchen sinks and dishwashers (not garbage disposals); bathtubs, showers and lavatories (not toilets); and the household laundry (not diaper water). Using gray water can almost double home water-use efficiency and provide a water source for landscape irrigation.

Unfortunately, many health regulations consider any non- drinkable water as black water or sewage. Many plumbing and health codes do not accept gray water for reuse because of assumed health risks. NOTE: For the legal status of gray water in your community, county and state, consult your local building codes, health officials, sanitation engineers and pollution control officials.
Gray water has few long-term effects on soil. Gray water slightly modifies soil-organism populations and usually initiates no additional pest problems. Changes that do occur are due to the additional water present. Over-watering and extended periods of soil saturation with gray water can cause severe root problems for plants.

Household levels of bleaches and detergents do not cause problems when gray water is applied to medium and fine-textured native soils. However, when applied to coarse sandy soils with little organic matter, root damage can occur.

Organic matter and soil-texture adjustments are critical in raised beds with gray-water irrigation. Do not use gray water on plants with limited root areas or for hydroponics.

Gray water has few detrimental effects on trees and shrubs growing in native soils. Acid-loving plants, however, can have problems because detergents make water more alkaline.

Tips for using gray water:

• Make trees and shrubs high-priority watering items because of their individual value.
• Use gray water when natural precipitation and normal irrigation water are not available.
• Apply gray water to soil. Never spray on foliage, twigs or stems. Never soak bark or root-collar area.
• Do not spray edible plant parts or soils where water splash can move gray water onto edible plant parts.
• Do not use on root or leaf crops consumed by people or domestic livestock.
• Do not use on new transplants.
• Do not use on indoor trees or other plants with limited rooting space, in small containers, or plants normally under saturated conditions.
• Always apply gray water at or slightly below the soil surface. Apply over or under mulch, if present.
• Avoid using micro or regular sprinkler heads that can blow gray-water aerosols downwind.
• Be careful of applications that apply gray water directly to leaf surfaces of ground covers and turfgrasses.
• Control gray-water application and infiltration to prevent standing puddles and surface runoff.
• Test soil periodically to reveal salt and boron toxicity problems.
• Gray-water use conserves one of our most precious resources. If managed properly, gray water creates few detriments and many benefits.

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Resource(s):

Make Every Drop Count

Xeriscape: Seven Steps to a Water-Wise Landscape

Center Publication Number: 253

Source(s): Jim Howell, Ph.D., Entomologist, The University of Georgia

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Cat allergy is by far the most common pet allergy. Five percent to 10% of the general population have a distinct cat allergy and up to 40% of asthmatics are sensitive to cats.

Contrary to popular belief, the allergy-causing substance from cats is not cat hair. Although individual cats may produce varying amounts of allergen, there is no relationship between the pet’s hair length and allergen production, and although some will argue the point, there is no such thing as a nonallergic breed.

The cat allergen is found primarily in flakes of cat skin and salivia. Male cats produce more of the allergen than females. It is produced in the animal’s salivary glands and the sebaceous glands in the skin, and because cats love to groom, they deposit this protein on their fur when they lick themselves.

These microscopic allergen particles can remain airborne for a long time. They can be easily inhaled into the nose and lungs, producing an allergic response. Mattresses, sofas and carpets can contain significant allergen particles up to six months after the animal has been removed. These particles also accumulate on walls.

Symptoms

People suffering a serious cat allergy will exhibit almost immediate rhinoconjunctivitis and wheezing upon entering a room that contains a cat. Cat allergy is a common trigger for atopic eczema, an itching , scaling or thickening of the skin. Perennial allergic rhinitis – chronic or recurent sneezing and/or runny nose – is like having year-round hay fever or a permanent cold. It’s important to know that allergies have an immediate (within one hour) and delayed (two hours or longer) component. An asthmatic, for example, might notice a worsening of his or her condition the day after exposure. An asthmatic may sometimes get no acute flareup and will assume he or she doesn’t have a cat allergy. But it is very possible there is ongoing chronic inflammation in the lungs due to ongoing cat exposure.

What To Do

If you have a cat allergy, the best thing to do, of course, is to remove the cat. But many allergic cat owners would rather suffer the consequences than get rid of their pet. If so, try the following:

• Remove airborne particles as much as possible. Use an air purifier with a HEPA filter.
• Keep cats out of bedrooms or other spaces where you spend a lot of time, such as a home office.
• Vinyl or hardwood floors are preferable to carpets because they hold far less cat allergens.
• Air out the house. Opening windows and using exhaust fans can increase air exchange and decrease airborne allergens.
• Use a damp cloth to clean walls and furniture.
• Use a dust or face mask when brushing or cleaning your cat.

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Reviewer(s):

• Lynwood Blackmon, CEA – DeKalb County.
• Bobby Wilson, CEA – DeKalb/Fulton Counties, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

Center Publication Number: 240