Month: September 2013

Source(s):

• Joan E Marsh
• Gary R Peiffer

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Make every drop of water count so that everyone has enough to use all summer long.

General Watering Tips

• When watering, wet the soil to a depth of about 6-8 inches which is about one inch of water. Short, surface waterings do more harm than good by encouraging shallow roots.
• Three to five gallons of water, or less than one minute of watering with a garden hose, will saturate the root zone of a plant.
• Established shrubs can survive with one 30 second hand-watering into their root zones every 2-3 weeks.
• When installing new plants, especially large trees and shrubs, build a shallow soil bern (2-3 inches high) so that water can be directed to the plant’s root zones.
• If possible, consider doing larger plantings during the fall to early winter, or in early spring when there is more adequate rainfall.
• Trickle, drip or soaker irrigation systems provide adequate water for plant growth and reduce the amount of water used by 80-90%. Most of these systems put out 1-3 gallons of water per hour, and the water goes right to the plant’s roots where it is used.
• Before deciding how long to run your watering system, test it to see how much water it puts out over a desired time period.
• Watering plant leaves and/or stems increases your chances of pest problems, especially diseases. Also, it wastes water because very little to no water is absorbed through these plant parts.

Ornamental Plants – Watering Needs

• Many southern landscape plants can tolerate drought conditions for several days and even weeks once they are well-established (after first 2-3 years). Examples: crape myrtles, junipers, many holly varieties.
• Place large, valuable and historic trees at the top of your watering priority list. Large oaks are especially vulnerable to drought conditions and you can not easily replace 100 year old oak trees.
• Most annuals, perennials, and many shrubs (azaleas, rhododendrons) are shallow rooted and therefore have high water demands. Water them more often but limit the size of these planting areas.
• If planting color areas, such as annuals/perennials, concentrate them in containers or planter boxes, and use some water-holding polymers in your mixes.
• Water newly planted trees and shrubs BEFORE well-established mature plants. They will need at least 1-2 good waterings per week, to get rooted and to insure their survival.
• Hold off on the installation of new plants during the driest months of the year (usually June- end of August).
• Plants growing in shade generally require less water than those in full sun.

Avoid Plant Stress

• Do not fertilize drought stressed plants. Fertilizers are salts which dehydrate plant roots when the soil is dry. Encouraging plant growth during a drought is not what you want. New growth requires the use of even greater water resources.
• Drought stressed plants are weakened and more prone to pest attacks.
• If applying pesticides, follow label precautions and do not apply to a plant that is already wilted or during the hottest hours of the day.
• Avoid unnecessary pruning. Pruning stimulates new growth which again requires more water.

Mulch

• Install a 3-4 inch layer of organic mulch (leaves, pine straw, etc.) over plant root zones to conserve soil moisture.
• Mulch entire root zone 6 inches out from the stem to the tip of the plant’s drip-line (ends of its branches).
• Do not pile mulch on lower stems or it will encourage rotting and pest problems such as voles.

Turf

• Most turf grasses can get by on 1 inch of water per week. This can be supplied by one to two good waterings, but you must know how much water your system puts out.
• Tall fescue grasses are not as drought tolerant and they may require up to two inches of water per week. Mowing fescue as high as possible, 2 to even 3 inches, will help shade its roots and limit drought stress.
• The best time to water a lawn is between sunset and sunrise while it is already experiencing its natural wet cycle (dew period). However, follow your local water restrictions as required and do not water until after 10 PM.
• Mow all turf less frequently during dry weather and only remove 1/3 or less of the blade height per mowing. Grass-cycle and leave those clippings on the soil to shade grass roots and provide nutrients.

Trees

• Do not fertilize drought-stressed or weakened trees.
• Water deeply by establishing soaker or drip hoses at the tree drip-line (branch tips). Provide one to two good soakings per week.
• Do not water at the base of trees or onto foliage.
• Watering leaves in the daytime can cause leaf scorch and watering leaves at night promotes leaf diseases, like mildew, and leaf spots.
• Establish natural areas or mulch islands under your larger, valuable trees.
• Leave an air space at trunks, but place mulch over as much of tree root zone as feasible.
• Limit plant competition by not over-planting in tree root zones.

Slow the Flow – Make every drop count so that everyone has enough drops to use all summer long. This is not just water conservation, it is a wise and equitable use of our natural resources.

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Center Publication Number: 43

Source(s): Michael T. Mengak

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No other creatures provoke such simultaneous conflicting feelings as do snakes. We are at once attracted and repelled, intrigued by them and their habits and, at the same time, certain people are seized by an almost overwhelming urge to kill. As with any wild animal, caution is advised. Homeowners, hikers, hunters, children and others should not approach or threaten any wild animal, and snakes are no exception.

A major reason many fear snakes is that some are venomous. Of the more than 50 kinds in Georgia, however, only 6 species or about 12 percent are venomous. Our venomous species are Eastern Coral Snake (Micrurus fulvius), Copperhead (Agkistrodon contortrix), Cottonmouth (Agkistrodon piscivorus), Pygmy Rattlesnake (Sistrurus miliarus), Timber Rattlesnake (Crotalus horridus), and Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake (Crotalus adamanteus).

Fortunately, snakebite is a rare accident. Fewer people are killed by snakes than by lightning. The best defense is knowledge; learn to recognize venomous species. Snakes of Georgia and South Carolina by Whit Gibbons and Patricia West (editors) is a good reference for snake identification. This booklet is available for $5 from the Savannah River Ecology Laboratory in Aiken, SC, the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service or your local county extension agent.

Snakes feed on a wide variety of small creatures and are very particular about what they eat. Some species eat only warm-blooded animals such as rodents and birds. Others may eat only toads and frogs. Large land-dwelling snakes are likely to feed on rodents, birds and their eggs, lizards, other snakes, toads and frogs. Aquatic snakes feed primarily on fish and amphibians. Small snakes are likely to eat mice, frogs, toads, earthworms, slugs and soft-bodied insects. Thus snakes are part of the natural system. Many of the things they eat are considered pests, so knowledgeable people spare harmless snakes that live in their yards.

Venomous snakes are another matter. In most circumstances, they should be removed. Be careful – a snake can strike half its length or more. Even when the snake is dead, its reflex movement can result in a bite if handled carelessly. Bites by venomous snakes need prompt medical attention. The bites of non-venomous species can be treated with soap, water and antiseptic.

Any non-venomous snake can be safely removed from a building by using a long-handled broom to gently brush the animal into an empty trash can. Place the lid on the can and take the snake to a wooded area away from any homes and carefully release it.

Refer venomous snakes in buildings to the Wildlife Resources Division of the Department of Natural Resources. Most people are bitten when they try to kill a snake. This only causes the snake to defend itself the only way it can.

The following plan of action will reduce the severity of a snake bite:

• Stay calm. The snake may be non-venomous, but if it’s venomous, excitement hurts, not helps.
• Have someone kill the snake so it can be identified. Use extreme caution. Most snakebites occur when attempting to kill the snake.
• Get to competent medical help as quickly as possible.
• Ask your doctor what he or she advises regarding snake bite – before it happens.

What attracts snakes to dwellings? If the house is surrounded by natural countryside with rock piles, streams and swamps nearby, snakes will appear from time to time. Naturalistic landscaping, rock gardens, weedy places, piles of boards and debris, deteriorating outbuildings and other similar things may harbor snakes.

Since there are no chemical poisons or effective repellents registered for snake control, the best way to make yards and outbuildings unattractive to snakes is to clean up and clean out. Snakes cannot hear sound, so auditory repellents are ineffective.

The first step is to ensure that there are no openings in dwellings or other structures where snakes can enter. Since snakes can get through very small holes (about the size of a dime), a careful inspection is necessary. For additional information, check with your local county extension office.

At the same time you are keeping snakes out of the house, take steps to make the rest of the premises unattractive. Look at the surroundings as if you were a snake. Are there rodents or other sources of food? Are there places to hide? If the answers are “yes,” plan a program to remove food and cover.

• Control rodents if they are present.
• Get rid of debris.
• Remove brush and leaf piles.
• Place stacked materials 12 or more inches above the ground or floor and away from walls.
• Keep the space beneath structures and stacks clean.
• Keep shrubbery and other plantings away from foundations and walls.
• Keep shrubbery clean and free of debris. Keep lawns closely mowed. Fill unwanted depressions.
• Keep stream or pond banks clean and clipped.

These practices will reduce but not eliminate the possibility of finding snakes. Remember, it is best to remove items that a snake would find attractive. Do not try to handle them.

Enjoy their presence by observing them from a safe distance. They are highly evolved predators that have a natural role in the environment. Especially remember that the vast majority are secretive, harmless to humans and beneficial in controlling mice, insects and other pests.

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Center Publication Number: 212

Source(s): Gary R Peiffer

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About one out of five persons suffers from allergies, many of them plant related. Flowers, trees and lawn grasses in our backyards product billions of pollen grains each spring. Georgia’s pollen season is at its peak in mid- April, receding in mid-May, and resurfacing in mid-August.

Some plants pollinate by insects and animals, others are wind-dependent and shed pollen into the air currents on warm, dry days intending to land on flowers. Instead, these tiny particles are easily inhaled by people and adhere to the linings of the nose, throat, and eyes. A chemical (histamine) is then released by the body that will induce allergic symptoms in sensitized individuals producing sneezing, coughing, itching, and watery eyes.

Plants pollinated by insects and animals tend to have large, sticky pollen grains that are not airborne, posing much less problem to the allergy sufferer. Pine pollen is often accused of causing allergies, but is not a potent allergen and is too large to go deep into the respiratory tract.
Although pollens can travel many miles, the majority tend to be focused in the general vicinity of their origin. An oak tree in the yard can expose the homeowner to ten times more pollen than an oak tree a block a way.

During the height of the pollen season–from late February to June–there are often thousands of pollen grains in every cubic meter of air. Most airborne pollen is so small it is barely seen. The amount of pollen in the air varies mile to mile and hour to hour, depending on local vegetation, wind direction and velocity, and other weather conditions. Pollen counts are higher on sunny, dry days and lower on cool, cloudy days, or after a rainfall.

Coping with Allergies

When the pollen counts rise, close your windows and don’t use window fans, stay in air conditioning, change air conditioning filters often.
Pollen counts are higher in the morning, so outdoor activities – such as running or cutting grass – should be done in the late afternoon.
Keep your car clean and use the air conditioner.

If you wear contact lenses and have allergic eye symptoms, a regular pair of glasses is much better for you at this time of year.
Wear glasses or sunglasses outdoors to prevent pollen from irritating the eyes.
Wear a paper mask that covers your nose and mouth when doing yard work, (available at drug and hardware stores).
Use gloves when gardening or wash your hands often.

Shower and put on fresh clothes after spending a lot of time outdoors, wash your hair particularly if you have long hair.
Wash pets (especially dogs) regularly because pollen clings to their coats. Consult your physician if you experience ongoing symptoms such as a runny nose, stuffiness, sinus pressure and headaches along with coughing and wheezing.

Use antihistamines sparingly, always with your doctor’s advice.

Do not use over-the-counter nose sprays more than three consecutive days; you can become tolerant to the medication rendering it ineffective.
Hay fever sufferers and allergic asthmatics participating in sports on grassy areas should take medication at least an hour before play.

Planting Recommendations

Many plants can be used in place of allergy producers. All plants, however, have the potential to cause allergies if the exposure is high enough. For example, a florist may become sensitized to flowers listed here as ‘sneezeless,’ after close and frequent contact with the pollen.
People with allergies and asthma have sensitive airways, which can be adversely affected by slight irritants, such as plant fragrances. Other irritants which can trigger nasal distress or asthma include dust, secondhand smoke, pollution, and perfume. Some plants known to cause problems among sensitive persons include the rose, star jasmine, citrus tree, eucalyptus tree, narcissus, rosemary, and gardenia.
One way to select “sneezeless” plants is to examine the flowers. Plants that produce the most frequent allergies are wind-pollinated. Their flowers are drab, inconspicuous, and often in clusters or tassels (called catkins). Frequently, wind-pollinated plants have separate male and female flowers, or entirely separate male and female plants.
Most colorful and showy flowers are “safe.” They are insect-pollinated and their beautiful petals serve to attract bees and other insects. Their pollens are usually heavy, sticky, and have a variety of surface structures. such as spines. The pollen grains can easily and securely attach to the insect and are not easily picked up by wind currents. These pollens seldom cause allergies.

A Word About Lawns

Bermuda grass lawns in particular produce abundant pollen, and the common seeded bermuda more than the hybrid. Bermuda grass can pollinate when the lawn is very short, as quickly as a few days after mowing.
Of the grasses, blends of perennial rye grass, blue grass, and tall fescue are recommended or other varieties of bunch grasses. They are available from seed or as sod lawns and will not flower unless allowed to grow 12″ or higher. The recommended mowing height is about 2″. Therefore, a well-maintained lawn of only bunch grass is also essentially allergy- free.

If a bermuda grass lawn is already present, someone other than the allergic person should mow and edge it as frequently and as short as possible. By keeping it watered and fed properly, flowering may be somewhat inhibited. Remove runaway bermuda grass from flower beds because it will flower prolifically.

Weeds

Ragweed is the dominant allergy producer in the fall. Other weeds that are common allergy producers include grasses, nettle, dock, English plantain, tumbleweed, pigweed, lambs quarters, and other members of the Amarantheceae and Chenopodiaceae families.

Source(s): Keith Mickler, Floyd County Extension Agent, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

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The majority of pest insects can be controlled with one of three environmentally friendly products – Horticultural Oils, Insecticidal Soaps and Bt Products.

 

Horticultural oil is especially formulated for use on plants. It is a petroleum-based oil with an emulsifier added that allows it to mix with water. It kills scales, mites, aphids, whiteflies and other soft-bodied pests that are present by suffocation, plugging up the insects breathing pores.

Horticultural oils are classified as dormant oils, summer oils or superior oils. Dormant oils are the heaviest of the horticultural oils. Apply these oils during winter dormancy and before plants begin spring growth. Do not use dormant oils during the growing season unless the label specifically states that such use is safe.

Summer oils are lighter than dormant oils and are formulated for use during spring and summer. Superior oils are the most refined of all petroleum oils and are excellent products for horticultural pest control in any season. Superior oil products allow greater flexibility in their use and have been tested at temperatures in the mid 90s with no damage to shrubs.

Only a few of the soaps manufactured are effective insecticides. insecticidal soaps basically are made from potassium salt of oleic acid, which is present in high quantities in olive and other vegetable oils. Insecticidal soap causes insects to dehydrate by physically breaking down the insect’s outer protective layer (cuticle).

Thorough spray coverage is essential when using oils and soaps. Since these products are not poisons and must contact the pest, all plant surfaces, tops and bottom sides of leaves and stems must be coated with spray for best results. Horticultural oils are sold under various descriptive names such as “dormant oil,” “oil emulsion,” “pesticide oil,” “summer oil” and “superfine oil.” There are several soaps available for purchase, such as Safers Insecticidal Soap and M- Pede.

Another environmentally friendly product for controlling caterpillars is Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Bt is an insecticide stomach poison for use only against caterpillars. Bt should be used when the caterpillars are young. The caterpillar must ingest the Bt for it to be effective. After ingesting a lethal dose of Bt, the caterpillar stops feeding and will die within several hours to days. Bt can be found under several brand names such as Dipel, Thuricide and Sok-BT.

Though horticultural oils, soaps and Bt products are less toxic than many insecticides, it is important to use them with caution. Read and follow the label carefully.

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Resource(s):

Insect Pests of Ornamental Plants

Center Publication Number: 270

Source(s): Gary L Wade

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Unlike the nursery or greenhouse industry that require a large capital investment to start, a landscape business requires less start-up funds. However, there are certain legal requirements for someone entertaining the business in terms of permits and licenses that must be obtained. These permits and licenses could result in a considerable outlay of money for new firms.

First, a firm must have a business license for the municipality in which the business is based. If a firm is headquartered in one county but does business in five adjoining counties, it may or may not have to have a business license in each of those counties. It is suggested that the landscaper check with the business license office in counties where business is done to determine if a business license is necessary. Some local municipalities have local requirements, while others do not.

Landscape contractors who handle and distribute plant materials must have a Nursery Dealer’s License from the Georgia Department of Agriculture. Also, any plants distributed must be purchased from licensed Nursery Growers and must be free of insects and diseases at the time of installation. If a landscape firm also grows it’s own plant material, it must also have a Nursery Grower’s License. Nursery Growers and Dealer’s Licenses are available from the Georgia Department of Agriculture, Plant Production Division, 19 Martin Luther King Jr. Dr., SW, Atlanta, GA 30334. Phone (404) 651-9486.

A Commercial Pesticide Applicator’s License is required of a person who applies pesticides to the land of another person for hire, or directs the application of pesticides by subordinates. A firm applying pesticides for hire must have a Pesticide Contractor’s License. Both of these licenses can be obtained through the Georgia Department of Agriculture, Phone (404) 656-4958.

If the firm will be installing hardscapes, such as brick walls, decks, etc., a building permit or Contractor’s License is required. Contact the local government for information on permits required.

All irrigation installers are required to have a Low Voltage Electrician’s License before they can install irrigation systems. The license is obtained through the Secretary of State’s office in Atlanta and requires one to pass a written test.

All businesses need to obtain a tax number from the Internal Revenue Service. If a landscaper plans to use part-time workers, temporaries, or subcontractors, the IRS has some rather complicated and specific rules in this area that he must understand and follow.

Speaking of liability, firms doing the work on the properties of others must have liability insurance. Generally, liability insurance rates increase dramatically when a firm applies pesticides on the properties of others. This finding has caused many newcomers to the landscape profession to think twice about offering pesticide services to clients.

Landscape maintenance professionals applying pesticides, including insecticides, fungicides herbicides or growth regulators, to a landscape site are required to post the property with a sign that reads: CAUTION: PESTICIDE APPLICATION….KEEP OFF. Also, the bottom of the sign should read as follows: “This sign may be removed on the day after application.” Firms may also have their name and address printed on the sign. The signs must be 4″ x 5″ in size and made of sturdy, weather resistant material. Contact the Georgia Department of Agriculture for additional information. The Georgia Department of Agriculture also has a source list of manufacturers who make the signs.

Finally, Georgia House Bill 417, passed during the 1993 legislative session, relates to who can and cannot do landscape design work for money. According to this act, only a Registered Landscape Architect can sell his design. A Registered Landscape Architect is one who passes a stringent Landscape Architect’s Certification Exam administered by the American Society of Landscape Architects and is licensed with the GA Secretary of State’s Office). A landscape contractor, designer or retailers (or anyone who is not a Registered Landscape Architect) who performs design services can not charge for his/her design and must follow up by installing the design. Newcomers to the landscape profession need to be aware of this act if they are considering design services as a part of their business.

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Center Publication Number: 124

Source(s): Randy Drinkard

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Sooty mold frequently develops on the foliage of many ornamental plants in late summer. It covers the top surface of leaves, thus, reducing the photosynthetic process of the leaf.

Biology

Sooty mold is often not noticed until a large number of leaves are covered with a black sooty substance. This is not really a disease, but a black fungal coating on leaves. Sooty mold is an indicator that there is an insect problem on the plant. The insects feeding on the plant are excreting a sugary substance called “honeydew”. The fungus doesn’t feed on plant tissue but on these secretions from the insects that are feeding on the plant.

Various fungi, Capnodium spp., Scorias sp., Fumago sp., associated with specific insects (aphids, scale, whiteflies and other sucking insects) and plants (fig, crape myrtle, azaleas, tuliptree, oleander, osmanthus and other ornamental plants) produce the sooty mold coating. The feeding of a large number of these insects and the coating of the sooty mold may lead to reduced vigor in the plant. These sucking pests take in large amounts of sap. Much of the water and sugars in the sap pass though the insect and onto the leaf. Rain usually will wash this residue off. If there is insufficient rain then the “honeydew” sticks to the leaf.

Control

To control sooty mold first control the aphids, scales or other pests that are creating the honeydew. Aphids can often be washed off by a strong spray of water from the hose. This action may also wash off some of the “honeydew” and sooty mold. Remaining sooty mold will eventually dry up and flake off the leaves. To control heavy infestations of aphids, scale, mealybugs, etc. on ornamental plants, use acephate(Orthene), malathion, imidacloprid or other recommended insecticides.

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Resource(s):

Insect Pests of Ornamental Plants

Center Publication Number: 56

Source(s): Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, The University of Georgia

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Warm-season turf grasses such as Bermuda, centipede, zoysia and St. Augustine suffer some common problems with springtime green-up. Here are problems we see most often.

Mowing height is the most common problem as these grasses go from dormancy to active growth. Scalping is more common in zoysia grasses, especially in the denser-growth cultivars like Emerald.

Zoysia grasses don’t tolerate scalping as Bermuda will. As a rule, zoysia will be set back anytime it’s cut low enough that you can see the black mold under the leaf canopy. This is generally below the node of the growing leaves. It can occur at any mowing height from as low as 0.5 inches to more than 3 inches.

Regardless of the grass species and normal mowing height, taking the grass down below the node will set it back. Generally, the higher the mowing height, the more this is a problem.

Ideally, maintain Bermuda grass and centipede between 1 and 2 inches, zoysia from 0.5 to 2 inches and St. Augustine from 2 to 3 inches.

Mowing frequency is just as important as mowing height. If you remove more than one-third of the leaf height at a single mowing, the grass will be stressed.

Fertility requirements differ with each grass. Consult your county University of Georgia Extension Service agent or visit www.GeorgiaTurf.com for fertility recommendations.

No matter what the species, though, fertilizing too early in the season, before soils are warm enough to support continual growth, can accelerate green-up but cause detrimental long-term effects.

Fertilizing these grasses in late-winter or early spring can cause them to break dormancy. Then when the inevitable late-season cold snap hits, they’ve used their stored food reserves. They have no energy to withstand environmental extremes. To avoid this, don’t fertilize until the soil reaches 65 degrees.

Thatch, as lawns get older, becomes more problematic, particularly if the turf has been mowed above its recommended height ranges. Increased thatch slows down the turf’s spring transition. It makes it more susceptible to disease, too.

Water — either too much or too little or even a combination of the two — can cause problems for grasses, especially zoysia.
Diseases can strike during spring green-up. The most common is Rhizoctonia large patch, which appears as large areas of blighted grass.

This disease is most active when night temperatures are between 50 and 60 degrees. When conditions are right, it’s common for the disease to become active first in the fall and then again in the spring.

You can see its typical “halo” when the disease is active. Fall and spring fungicide applications can control it. Consult your county UGA Extension agent for proper fungicides and rates.

Applying nitrogen just before or during active infection will increase disease problems.

Cool temperatures make centipede and zoysia slower to green up in the spring.

Microclimates can cause problems, too. Emerald zoysia growing north of Atlanta has been killed by the low temperatures in shaded sites that don’t get much winter sun.

Varietal differences can be troublesome. Some incidences suggest that many types of Emerald zoysia exist in the landscape and green up at different rates.

Cooperative research with the Georgia Crop Improvement Association and Auburn University is under way to evaluate these grass differences.

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Resource(s):

Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 147

Source(s): Randy Drinkard

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Several fungi are capable of causing stem canker and dieback of roses.

Symptoms:

Cankers begin as spots ranging in color from yellow to purple, depending on the causal fungus. The developing cankers become sunken, forming wrinkled or cracked lesions that are tan to black. Canker margins are brown to reddish purple. Numerous small, black, wart-like specks embedded within the canker area are fruiting bodies of the causal fungus. Cankers often enlarge until the stem is girdled. Once the stem is girdled, the foliage above the canker wilts and dies. Cankers that form at the graft union usually result in plant death.

Disease Cycle:

The fungi causing stem canker and dieback usually survive the winter on diseased canes or plant debris. Spores of the causal fungi are usually spread by wind-blown rain or irrigation water. Rose canes are infected through wounds during periods of humid, wet weather. The disease may also be spread by fungus-contaminated pruning tools. Cankers often form on the stub of pruned canes, but they may also be seen around leaf or thorn scars, winter injury, or other damage on the canes. Stem canker and dieback are most damaging to weak, slow-growing roses.

Control:

When establishing or renovating rose beds, always plant canker-free roses and space the plants to allow for good air circulation. Promote good plant vigor and minimize canker damage by irrigating and by fertilizing according to soil test recommendations. Avoid any unnecessary damage when pruning or handling plants. Make pruning cuts just above the node, leaving a small stub to speed callus formation. Remove cankers by cutting 5 to 6 inches below the canker margin. After each cut, dip pruning tools in 70-percent alcohol or a dilution of 1 part household bleach and 4 parts water. This will prevent the further spread of the disease. Treat roses with Daconil, Immunox, Funginex or other recommended fungicides according to label instructions to provide protection from stem canker and dieback.

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Resource(s):

Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 116

Source(s): Randy Drinkard

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The spring landscape is saturated with flowering shrubs. But spring passes and suddenly it’s summer. All that color doesn’t have to disappear, though. Many plants tolerate Georgia’s heat and humidity while providing lots of summer color.

Numerous shrubs are available to Georgia homeowners for providing summer interest in the landscape. Just a few examples of easy-to-grow, summer-blooming shrubs include, althea or Rose of Sharon, bottlebrush buckeye, clethra, chase trees, crape myrtles, hydrangeas, hypericums and spireas.

Hydrangeas welcome the heat of summer to make new growth. The big-leafed hydrangeas produce big, blue, mop-headed flowers that demand attention. The large mounds of foliage support multitudes of flowers, usually mop heads. But occasionally we see a lace-cap plant or two. The flowers are generally blue in our acid soils. But if you lime the soil, the flowers will turn pink or purple.

Two selections are available that keep blooming all summer. ‘Endless Summer’, a new release, and ‘Penny Mac’ keep producing new flowers until frost. Both do best with afternoon shade and a steady supply of moisture.

Our native oakleaf hydrangea forms 6- to 10-foot mounds of foliage from top to bottom. It produces long panicles of white, sterile flowers just above the foliage. These panicles are eight to 12 inches long and fade to a burgundy red as they age. The foliage looks like an enlarged oak leaf. Plants do well in partial shade but require well-drained soils. A great place to plant is on the edge of the woods, where the plants are shaded from the hot afternoon sun.

The peegee hydrangea develops into a large, upright shrub or small tree. The big, white flowers open on new growth in July and August. The selections ‘Tardiva’ and ‘Chantilly Lace’ flower a little later and hold flowers on strong, upright stems. These plants will grow in sun or shade on well-drained soils.

The blue flowers of the chaste tree (Vitex) in July remind us that the flowering season isn’t yet over. The 10- to 12-inch spikes nearly cover the plants. There’s a buzz of excitement, too, as the bees visit each flower. The chaste tree is a fast grower. It reaches 12 to 15 feet tall. The gray-green foliage is usually pest-free. Plants do best in full sun. Flowers develop on new growth, so you need to prune in early spring before growth begins.

Summersweet clethra blooms late, in July and August. This native produces a sweet fragrance that permeates the garden. The spiked clusters of white flowers are 4 to 6 inches long and last three to four weeks. The plants grow 4 to 6 feet tall. They adapt to sun or shade and tolerate heat and drought. The shiny, dark green leaves turn yellow in the fall. Summersweet clethra is a great choice for the shrub border, along lakes and streams or on the edge of the woods.

Be sure to include some flowers and fragrance in your summer landscape. These shrubs make great additions to any landscape. You could even remove an overgrown azalea or two and replace it with some summer excitement to extend your flowering season.

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Resource(s):

Landscape Plants for Georgia

Source(s): Robert R Westerfield, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, Extension Horticulturist

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The summer heat makes it difficult to work outside for long. But some chores in your landscape need to be addressed to keep your plants attractive and healthy.

Probably the most critical detail right now is the effect of this summer’s recent record heat. Many plants can suffer from extended hot, dry conditions.

Allowing plants to get to the wilting point before watering may cause irreversible damage to some varieties, especially shallow-rooted annuals and perennials.

If water restrictions allow, give these plants a drink at night; or better, early in the morning to avoid the hottest part of the day and the greatest amount of evaporation.

Don’t forget to water your most prized trees as well. It’s easy to replace a $3 annual flower, but nearly impossible to restore a 50-year-old oak.
While walking around your landscape, continue to deadhead flowers of annuals and perennials. This will keep the plants from going to seed in some cases and help them initiate more blooms for the rest of the summer. Deadheading can also lessen the chances of disease and insect attack by removing potential infection sites – dead or decomposing flowerheads.

Check your roses carefully for signs of spidermite damage. Spidermites love the hot, dry weather and will take every opportunity to invade your roses. Keep spraying throughout the growing season with a combination fungicide, insecticide and miticide.

When you need to apply chemicals, do it either very early or very late in the day to avoid burn on the foliage from hot temperatures. Apply insecticides late in the day to avoid killing honeybees as they are usually more active in the early morning hours.

If weeds have been a problem in the flower beds, hand removal may be the best bet. It’s hard to kill mature weeds with chemicals. Spot treatments with a nonselective herbicide such as Roundup or glyphosate may be possible if you’re careful not to contact desirable plants.

Adding a new layer of mulch can go a long way, too, toward controlling unwanted weeds, as well as, helping to keep the soil evenly moist.

Take a close look at vigorously growing shrubs such as privet, hollies and ligustrum. They may need a trim to keep them in shape and away from your windows. Light pruning of the fast-growing shoots won’t harm the plant. And this type of pruning will give plants more compact form. Save heavy pruning, though, for late winter.

Remember to lightly fertilize annual flowers and roses each month. Water the fertilizer in thoroughly after applying to get the nutrients into the plants’ root zone. If you use a liquid fertilizer, read the directions carefully. And don’t apply liquid fertilizers on flowers or foliage during the heat of the day as burn may occur.

Begin soon to plan your fall landscape changes. Many catalogs require you to order now for a fall shipment. Look at the success of your existing landscape and ask yourself if you’re happy with the arrangement, spacing and color.

Draw out what changes you’ll make and begin to check on the availability of plants for this fall. Fall is the ideal time to plant most landscape plants.

When you’ve finished scouting and maintaining your landscape, kick off your shoes in the comfort of your air-conditioning. You’ll feel better knowing tha your landscape is healthy and ready to take on another hot summer day in Georgia.

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Resource(s):

Care of Ornamental Plants in the Landscape

Center Publication Number: 97