Month: September 2013

Source(s): Danny C. Flanders, Garden Writer, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

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Cold weather causes freeze-damaged plants in Georgia gardens and landscapes. Tips for cold-damaged plants offered by Bob Westerfield, a University of Georgia Cooperative

Extension horticulturist and Walter Reeves, host of the WSB-AM’s “Lawn and Garden Show” include:

• Tomatoes, tender ornamental annuals: Plants that are damaged or killed by a freeze must be replanted.
• Hosta: Trim off dead parts of leaves but leave as much healthy leafy surface as possible.
• Crape myrtle, butterfly bush: No pruning required unless you see dead stems in mid-May. They flower on new growth, produced after March, and will drop any damaged leaves and put out new ones in the next few weeks. No pruning required unless you see dead stems in mid-May.
• ‘Burford’ holly, azalea, loropetalum: Prune out dead foliage now as needed.
• Hydrangeas: Branch tips on which new growth was damaged likely will not flower this spring. But limbs closer to the ground with no damage may well produce flowers in June. Look for flower heads over the next week or two; decide then whether you want to prune brown stem tips without flowers. They won’t bloom this year, and may not next year if you wait too late, but it’s a great opportunity to shape an out-of-control shrub. Continuous bloomers like ‘Endless Summer’ will flower but later than normal.
• Japanese maples: Remove scorched leaves later in the season once you’re sure they are dead. Wait until late May to prune because some maples will be slow to produce new leaves.

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Resource(s): Winter Protection of Ornamental Plants

Reviewer(s):

• Janet Hollingsworth, CEA- Appling County, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.
• Joann Milam, CEA- Washington County, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.
• Diane Miller, CEA- Bulloch County, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

Center Publication Number: 247

Source(s): Michael T. Mengak

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In the past 50 years, the range of the nine-banded armadillo (Dasypus novemcinctus) in the south has been rapidly expanding, bringing armadillos increasingly into conflict with suburban landowners. When foraging, armadillos often uproot ornamental plants. Their rooting also destroys gardens, lawns and flower beds. Their burrowing can damage tree roots and building foundations.

Most armadillo damage is caused by their feeding habits. Armadillos dig shallow holes, 1-3 inches deep and 3-5 inches long, as they search for soil invertebrates. A recent survey of Georgia county extension agents by scientists at the University of Georgia found that 77.6 percent of all agents reported receiving complaints or requests for information on armadillos. Armadillo-related inquiries made up 10.1 percent of all inquiries for all agents across the state, surpassing even the white-tail deer.

Armadillos are often assumed to destroy nests of ground- nesting birds. Armadillo diets have been studied in several states including Alabama, Louisiana, Texas, Georgia, Arkansas and Florida. According to these studies, vertebrate matter, especially bird eggs, made up a minor portion of their diet. The armadillo’s diet often consists of more than 90 percent insects, grubs and earthworms. Based on these studies, it seems that claims of armadillos being significant nest predators are unfounded. Some authors warn, however, that armadillos merely break eggs open and lick out the contents. When this happens, little evidence remains in their stomachs, making detection of egg predation using stomach content analysis almost impossible. Miniature video surveillance cameras monitoring quail nests at Tall Timbers Research Station in Florida have documented this behavior in wild armadillos. The study found that armadillos may be more significant quail predators than previously accepted. They were responsible for destroying up to 26 percent of all quail nests.

Armadillos are not protected under Georgia wildlife regulations (DNR website www.georgiawildlife.com). They may be hunted or trapped year round without limit. Removal by shooting can be an effective control method, but this may not be safe or desirable for suburban landowners. Many suburban landowners would rather have animals trapped and relocated. Other control methods are available, such as habitat modification and exclusion, but these methods are often impractical, expensive or ineffective.

Our objective was to test several different lures or baits for live-trapping nine-banded armadillos. We used cage traps, hoping they could be a practical alternative to lethal removal for suburban landowners.

Methods

We trapped armadillos, using 10 x 12 x 32 inch Tomahawk wire cage traps, from April to July, 2004, at the Joseph W. Jones Ecological Research Center in Newton, Georgia. Traps were placed in areas with abundant armadillo sign. Since we were primarily interested in evaluating the attractants we avoided placing traps directly over burrows, where armadillos may be forced into traps. We tested the effectiveness of several baits and lures, including:

• Live night crawlers
• Live crickets
• Rotten chicken feed
• Whole eggs
• Rotten eggs
• Bananas
• Marshmallows
• Sardines
• Vanilla wafers
• Moistened soil
• “Armor plate,” a commercially available lure

In addition, we tested two types of unbaited traps:

1. an unbaited trap with “wings” consisting of two 2- inch x 6-inch boards and 6 feet long attached at one end of the trap to funnel the armadillo into the trap, and
2. an unbaited trap without wings.

Results

In trapping studies, scientists compare data by calculating an index called trap nights. One trap night equals one trap set for one night. Ten trap nights equal one trap set for ten nights or ten traps set for one night. In our study, we had 1,332 trap nights. We captured only 10 armadillos or an average of one armadillo every 132 trap nights. This number is quite low. Of the 11 attractants we evaluated, most of them (nightcrawlers, chicken feed, whole eggs, bananas, marshmallows, sardines and vanilla wafers) had 0 captures. Capture success was too low for any meaningful statistical comparisons of attractants. However, when all baited traps (63% of trap nights) were compared with the unbaited traps (37% of trap nights), there was no significant difference in capture success. Only four armadillos were captured in traps with baits or lures. Six armadillo were captured in unbaited traps. Of these six, four were caught in unbaited traps with wings.

Discussion

Given that capture success was quite low, it is unlikely that trapping is an effective method of quickly reducing local armadillo populations. Until an effective attractant can be found, lethal removal by shooting remains the most effective solution. If live-trapping and relocation are chosen as control measures, however, the use of any of the attractants tested is unnecessary. Armadillos in this study were just as likely to enter a baited trap as an unbaited trap. It is likely that the armadillos we did capture randomly walked into the traps and were not necessarily attracted.

This suggests that if armadillos are to be captured, trap placement is much more important that attractant selection. Homeowners and others attempting to live trap armadillos should carefully select a trapping location. It is likely that a trap (even one without bait) with wings placed near an active burrow will be the most effective method for capturing individual nuisance animals. Homeowners and others can place traps near natural barriers or fences such as the walls of patios, edges of buildings or landscaping features; or near natural fences such as fallen trees. The use of baits and attractants does not appear to increase trap success.

Individuals needing more information are encouraged to contact the author by email at mmengak@warnell.uga.edu or by phone (706-583-8096).

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Center Publication Number: 198

Source(s): Randy Drinkard

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Citrus produces fruit best when grown in full sun. Citrus trees planted under live oak trees or pines produce only light fruit crops, but often survive freezes since warmer air may be trapped under the sheltering trees.

Citrus trees do best on well-drained, sandy loam soils, but will grow on many soil types if good water drainage is provided. Citrus plants which develop into trees such as satsumas and tangerines may be planted as close as 10 to 15 feet apart although a spacing of 15 to 20 feet is more ideal. Small citrus plants such as kumquats may be spaced as close as 6 to 10 feet apart, if desired.

Avoid planting trees near septic tanks or drain fields. Tree roots may clog the drain and soaps, borax, etc. used in the home may prove to be toxic to the trees.

Locate citrus plants in a protected area if possible, such as near a home or some other structure, preferably on the south side. This type of location provides maximum protection from severe freezes. Usually the wind associated with south Georgia cold weather comes from the north to northwest.

Rootstock Selection

Selection of rootstock is another factor to be considered when planting and establishing citrus plants. Trifoliate orange(Poncirus trifoliata) is a superior rootstock for satsumas, oranges, kumquats and tangerines and is strongly recommended. It induces good cold hardiness in the scion variety and results in favorable yields and high fruit quality. About the only other rootstocks which are of value are sour orange, Cleopatra mandarin and certain of the citranges (cross of sweet orange and trifoliate orange). The Rusk and Carrizon varieties are two of the more popular. Cleopatra mandarin is an exceptionally outstanding rootstock for mandarin-tangerines. Sour orange is not recommended as a rootstock for kumquats because of incompatibility problems.

Pollination

With the exception of Clementine tangerine and certain tangerine hybrids such as Orlando tangelo, citrus trees are self-fruitful and do not require cross-pollination. The self-fruitful types of citrus may be grown as a single tree.

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Resource(s): Citrus Fruits for Southern and Coastal Georgia

Center Publication Number: 175

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

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There are three distinct aspects of turfgrass establishment. The first, soil preparation, is probably the most important. The second, planting, may involve seeding, sprigging or sodding. The final step is the care and maintenance for two to four weeks after planting.

The key to successful establishment of a home lawn is proper soil preparation. Without this, most lawns will eventually fail. Soil should be prepared the same whether you are planting by seed, sprigs, stolons, or sod. Outlined below are the steps necessary for proper soil preparation.

 

Take Soil Samples

Base fertilizer and lime applications on the result of soil tests. Contact your county agent for information on how to collect samples.

Clean Planting Site

Remove all the debris from the area to be planted. This includes rocks, bottles, and large roots. Remove all old tree stumps. These will eventually decay and leave depressions in the lawn.

Rough Grading

If extensive grading is being done, remove the topsoil and replace it after the rough grade is set. The rough grading should conform to the final grade after the topsoil is added. A 1-2 percent slope (1-2 foot of the fall per 100 feet) away from all buildings generally gives the best results.

If internal drainage or subirrigation systems are to be installed, this is the best time to do it. Remember, good drainage is a must if a nice lawn is desired.

The subgrade may become compacted during rough grading, especially if the ground is wet. This compacted layer must be broken up by some means. A spring tooth harrow works well on soils compacted lightly, while a small rotavator might be needed for more heavily compacted sites.

Replace Topsoil

Once the subgrade is established, respread the topsoil. Allow for at least 6- 8 inches of depth after the soil has settled. This means placing about 8-10 inches topsoil over the subgrade. Steep slopes or rock outcrops need at least 12 inches of topsoil for proper maintenance. If the existing topsoil is poor, improve it if you cannot purchase new topsoil.

If organic matter is needed, add 1-3 cubic yards per 1000 square feet of lawn area. Materials such as peat moss, shredded pine bark, rotted sawdust (6-8 years) or leaf mold serve well as organic materials. On heavy soils, add 8-10 cubic yards of sand per 1000 square feet of lawn. Mix all of these materials in thoroughly with the native soil to a depth of 6-8 inches.

Add Fertilizer and Lime

Once the topsoil is spread and graded, add fertilizer and lime as indicated by the soil test. Mix the lime thoroughly with the top 3-5 inches of topsoil. The fertilizer should be mixed with the top 1-3 inches of soil or simply applied to the surface. Water the fertilizer lightly prior to planting.

A general recommendation for a starter fertilizer is 20-30 pounds of a commercial grade fertilizer, such as 5-10-15, 6-12-12, 5-10-10, or 7-14-21 per 1000 square feet of lawn. If a soluble source of nitrogen is used, do not apply more than 1 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. If an insoluble source of nitrogen is used, such as urea-formaldehyde, you can apply 3-5 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet prior to planting.

Final Grading

Final grading and mixing of the fertilizer should be delayed until right before planting time. If this is done too far in advance, some fertilizer may be leached out and the soil may become crusted. On light soils (high sand content), the seedbed should be firmed. This will help prevent drying out of the soil. Once the soil is properly prepared, it is time to plant.

Take care not to destroy the existing trees in the lawn. The cutting of a large percentage of a tree’s roots during soil tillage can severely damage if not kill it. Trees can also be suffocated by deeply covering the roots with soil. If soil is necessary at a tree base, a tree well should be constructed.

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Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 129

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

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There are three distinct aspects of turfgrass establishment. The first, soil preparation, is probably the most important. The second, planting, may involve seeding, sprigging or sodding. The final step is the care and maintenance for two to four weeks after planting.

Cool Season Grasses

In Georgia, most cool-season lawns are established by seeding. Always purchase quality seed, that is, one with a high percent germination and purity. This information should be given on the tag. Inexpensive seed often ends up being quite expensive because of low germination and purity. Reputable seed dealers are always willing to help customers select quality seed. See Table 1 below for seeding rates.

The best way to apply seed is with a mechanical seeder that will distribute the seed uniformly. There are four basic types of mechanical seeders available: (a) drill, (b) gravity, (c) broadcaster, and (d) hydroseeder. For small areas, such as home lawns, the gravity flow or broadcaster work best.

When seeding, divide the seed in two equal parts and then seed in two directions at right angles to each other. Fertilizers and pesticides should also be applied in this manner to insure a more uniform distribution. For some small seed, it may be helpful to mix the seed with a carrier such as dry sand to distribute the seed evenly. If this is done, frequently mix to prevent separation of the seed and sand.

Once the seeds are planted, rake lightly into the soil. On small areas a hand rake works fine. This increases the contact of the seed with the soil, thus increasing the chance of the seed surviving. After raking, roll the seed lightly to firm the soil. Then place a mulch over the soil. A mulch serves two purposes: (1) it helps prevent soil erosion and (2) it helps retain moisture necessary for the seed to germinate. If straw is used, find a source that is free of weed seed. One bale of straw (60-80 pounds) will cover approximately 1000 square feet.

The straw can be left on the lawn to decompose if it is not spread too thick. Peat moss or aged sawdust does not make a good mulch for seeded lawns. These materials compete with the seed for water and resist decomposition. Water the lawn as soon as possible after seeding.

Warm-Season Grasses

With the exception of common bermudagrass and centipedegrass, most warm-season grasses in Georgia are established by planting vegetative plant parts. The seeding procedure is the same for warm- and cool-season grasses. Annual Ryegrass is used as an overseeding to produce green color on home lawns in winter. See Table 2 below for vegetative planting rates.

Sprigging is the placing of grass plants, runners, rhizomes, stolons, or small sod pieces (2-4 inch plugs) in small holes or furrows on the soil surface. Stolonizing is the broadcasting of vegetative plant parts on the soil surface and covering by topdressing or slicing.

To plant sprigs, dig furrows every 8-12 inches and place the sprigs at a 1-2 inch depth every 4-6 inches in the furrows. The closer together the sprigs are, the quicker the grass will cover. After placing the sprigs in the furrow, cover part of the sprig with soil and firm. This can be done with a roller or by stepping on the soil around the sprig. Water as soon as possible after planting.

Broadcasting requires more planting material but will produce a quicker cover. Stolons are broadcast by hand or a mechanical spreader over the prepared seedbed. The stolons are then topdressed lightly with 0.15-0.25 inches of soil or sliced into the soil. Machines with vertical blades for slicing the stolons into the soil are available for this purpose. After topdressing or slicing, roll the lawn to firm the soil around the stolons. Apply water immediately.

Sodding is becoming more and more popular. Quality sod that is free of weeds, diseases and insects should be used. Be sure the soil grade is correct before laying the sod. As soon as the sod is in place, roll, mow if necessary and water.

Relatively new methods of planting are hydro planting and hydroseeding. Sprigs or seed are mixed with water in a large tank and then sprayed under high pressure over the area being planted. The advantage of this method is that the equipment does not have to go over the lawn. This helps prevent compaction, especially in wet weather.

Many zoysia lawns in the south are plugged. While more grass tends to survive when plugged, the rate of establishment is much slower than that or sprigging or stolonizing. Zoysia plugs (2 to 4 inch diameter) should be placed on 6-12 inch centers. The closer the plugs, the faster the cover. Most lawns plugged with zoysia take two years to achieve full cover.

Table 1: Seeding Rates for Lawn Grasses in Georgia
Grass	Seeding Rate (lbs/1000 sq.ft.)	When to Plant	Area of Adaptation
Tall Fescue	5-8	September, October (preferably), or early spring	North of fall line
Kentucky Bluegrass	1-2	Same as above	North, mountain area
Annual Ryegrass	5-10	September- November	All*
Common Bermuda	1-2 (hulled)	May-June	All
Common Bermuda	3-5 (unhulled)	Fall	All
Centipede	1/4 -1/2	May-June	Central south
Carpetgrass	1-3	May-June	Central south
* Annual Ryegrass is used as an overseeding to produce green color on home lawns in winter.

 

Table 2: Vegetative Planting Rates for Warm Season Grasses
Grass	Planting Rate* (bu/1000 sq. ft.)	When to Plant	Rate of Establishment
Bermudagrass	2-4	May-July	2-3 months
Zoysias	2-4	May-July	1 year
Centipede	2-4	May-June	4-6 months
St. Augustine	2-4	May-June	3-4 months*
* One square yard of sod approximates: 9 sq. ft; about 1 bu. of sprigs; 2000 Bermuda or Zoysia sprigs; 500 St. Augustine or Centipede sprigs; 324, 2-inch plugs; 84, 4-inch plugs.

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Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 130

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

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There are three distinct aspects of turfgrass establishment.

1. The first, soil preparation, is probably the most important.
2. The second, planting, may involve seeding, sprigging or sodding.
3. The final step is the care and maintenance for two to four weeks after planting.

Care after Planting

Water newly-planted turf areas regularly. The waterings should be light and often enough to prevent the surface from drying. This usually means daily waterings for the first 2-3 weeks. As the seedlings develop, or as the sprigs or sod begin to take root and grow, decrease the frequency of watering and increase the amount applied each time.

The grass should be mowed when it reaches 1.5 times its recommended mowing height. Do not mow young grass when it is wet. See the table below – “Mowing Height for Lawn Grasses in Georgia” for more information.

Newly-planted turfgrasses should be fertilized according to soil test recommendations. In the absence of these recommendations, and in order to obtain rapid cover, monthly apply a complete fertilizer (contains N, P and K) at the rate of one to two pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. Proper fertilizer application is also important and is discussed in factsheet “Fertilization of Turgrasses”.

Newly-planted areas are likely to become weed infested. Weeds should be controlled by frequent mowing and proper fertilization and watering. If chemical weed control is necessary, consult the Weed Control in Lawns bulletin.

**** Mowing Height for Lawn Grasses in Georgia ****
Grass	Cutting Height (inches)
Tall Fescue	2-3
Bluegrass	2-3
Common Bermudagrass	1-2
Hybrid Bermudagrass	0.5-1.5
Zoysia	0.5-1.5
Centipedegrass	1-1.5
Carpetgrass	1-2
St. Augustine	2-3
Ryegrass	1-2

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Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 131

Source(s): Jacob G Price

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Fungal leaf spots are abundant throughout Coastal Georgia landscapes. Leaf spots can reduce shrubs appeal while also compromising plant health. Red tips, Indian Hawthorne, and Bradford Pears are commonly affected.

Description of Leaf Spot

Small reddish leaf spots initially. As spots age, center is grayish with a purple border. Leaf spots may coalesce causing severe leaf blight. Severely infected leaves drop prematurely. Over time severely infected plants can die.

Favorable Environment for Leaf Spot

This disease is promoted by poor air circulation and prolonged periods of leaf wetness.

Irrigating late in the day or early evening may increase disease severity. Irrigation intended for turfgrass often wets foliage of shrubs, making the problem worse.

Control of Leaf Spot

For Photinia (red tips), prune plants to improve air circulation. Increase plant spacing and avoid wetting foliage. Apply protective fungicide applications when the leaves emerge in the spring and continue at 10-14 day intervals throughout the growing season. Two labeled fungicides for this problem are chlorothalonil (Daconil) and propiconazole (Banner Maxx). Red tips are very vulnerable to entomosporium leaf spot. Fewer fungicides applications may be needed with pear and hawthomes.

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Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 73

Source(s): Jim Howell, Ph.D., Entomologist, The University of Georgia

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Ah, the harbingers of Spring have arrived! The Atlanta Braves are playing ball, azaleas and dogwoods are blooming, robins are on the windowsill – and tent caterpillar nests are appearing in our wild cherry trees.

Eastern tent caterpillar eggs are timed to hatch when the cherry buds unfurl, and their rapidly growing silken nests make them an excellent sign for the warming that is just around the corner.

Identification

Older larvae are generally black, with long brown hair and a white stripe down the middle of their backs. Along the midline is a row of blue spots with brown and yellow lines. At maturity, the caterpillars may reach a length of 2 1/2 inches. Adults are reddish-brown, with two white oblique stripes on each forewing.

Biology

Adult moths emerge in May and early June and lay egg masses that resemble chocolate-colored collars that encircle the smaller limbs of their host. Each egg mass is about 1 inch long. Eggs overwinter and hatch in mid-March of the following year, at the same time the cherry buds unfurl. The appearance of new, tender leaves is like the ringing of a dinner bell.

From each case, several hundred tiny feeding machines emerge, and for four to six weeks they hungrily strip the trees of their leaves. The larvae are gregarious and upon hatching they gather in the forks of the limbs. Usually one of these tents or “colonies” is made of insects hatching from several different egg masses.

From this mass of silk, the developing larvae move outward to feed on developing leaves. They produce a fine thread of silk that is laid down wherever they crawl, and in a few days, well-defined pathways can be seen leading from the nest to various feeding sites in the tree.

Most of the larvae return to the tent at night or during rainy weather and the nest gradually becomes larger and larger as silk accumulates. Most of the leaf is consumed, leaving only the mid-vein.

About three weeks later, the adult moths emerge, mate and lay their eggs, which stay on the trees until the following spring, when the process begins again.

Though the nests are most commonly seen in the forks of wild cherries, this pest can be found in other ornamental, shade and fruit trees, especially apples. While not a serious pest in the natural forest, this insect can be a blight to homeowners because the infestations reduce the beauty and esthetic value of shade trees and other hardwoods in the landscape.

Damage

The large silken masses are unsightly in the forks of trees. In addition, about four to six weeks after hatching, full-grown larvae will crawl away from their nests and accumulate on the sides of homes, on driveways and sidewalks and on various woody ornamentals in search of pupation sites.

At this time, homeowners express concern about possible damage to other plants. But by now, the larvae are finished with their feeding and will do no damage to plants on which they are found. Their white cocoons are usually spun on tree trunks or nearby objects.

The caterpillars are primarily a nuisance and do not usually pose a danger to the overall health of larger, well-established tree. Young fruit and ornamental trees may be damaged, however.

The larvae finish their feeding at a time of vigorous leafing activity, and though the trees are often stripped of their leaves, they usually produce a new flush of foliage within two or three weeks.

Control

Usually, no controls are necessary. But should caterpillars attack young trees and for aesthetic preservation, the nests, along with their accompanying larvae, can be removed and destroyed. In addition, the egg masses can be clipped from the limbs in late June to prevent nests from developing the following spring. For chemical controls, explore the “Georgia Pest Management Handbook“.

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Center Publication Number: 176

Source(s): Jennifer Davidson

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The colorful Eastern Lubber Grasshopper is one of the most common grasshoppers in Georgia. The Eastern Lubber grasshopper sometimes occurs in large enough numbers in Georgia to cause damage to plants in the garden and landscape.

Description

A large, distinctive grasshopper, the Eastern Lubber, or Georgia Thumper (Romalea microptera (= guttata) can be easily identified in the landscape. The adults are black, red, and yellow but colors vary depending on the phase of growth. The fully grown size of the females and males are about 6.0 and 8.0cm, respectively. The adult winds are yellow with black dots and are half the length of the abdomen, therefore, useless for long-distance flying.

Lifecycle

Lubbers produce one generation per year, laying masses of about 50 eggs in soil excavations about 5 cm deep. Each female lays one to three separate masses of eggs around May in Georgia. The insect goes through incomplete metamorphosis, growing through successive stages after molting, called instars. Five juvenile instars, each typically lasting 15-20 days occur. Juveniles (nymphs) stay together around a safe food source, until molting again. In the fall, the females insert their eggs to overwinter in the soil.

Defensive Abilities

The Eastern lubber grasshopper uses its bright color to warn predators. The lubber contains toxic substances known to induce sickness or death in birds and mammals. The lubber can secrete a foamy spray from its body, while hissing loudly. They can also vomit plant material to deter predators. This is known as “tobacco” spit.

Control

Mechanical methods, such as hand-picking or shoe-stomping, are the primary control of these grasshoppers, especially if allowed to grow to adult size. Chemical control is difficult as the adult exoskeleton is difficult to penetrate.

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Resource(s): Insect Pests of Ornamental Plants

Reviewer(s):

• Ellen Bauske, Program Coordinator, UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.
• Randy Drinkard, Technical Writer, UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

Center Publication Number: 256

Source(s):

• Bob Polomski, Extension Consumer Horticulturist.
• Al Pertuit, Extension Floriculture Specialist, Clemson University.

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The white, trumpet-shaped flowers of the Easter lily (Lilium longiflorum) have become the traditional time-honored symbol of beauty, hope and life during the Easter season. Potted flowering Easter lilies can be grown indoors and planted in the garden with the onset of warmer temperatures.

When purchasing a potted Easter lily, select a high quality plant. Select a well-balanced plant that looks attractive from all angles. The rich, green leaves should be dense and plentiful from the top down to soil level. Look for a lily with one or two open or partly opened flowers and three or more unopened buds. The puffy buds will open up within a few days, while the tighter ones will open over the next several days.

Be wary of Easter lilies displayed in paper, plastic or mesh sleeves. The protective sleeves are used for shipping and should have been removed upon arrival at the store. While the packaging may seem convenient, the quality of the plants will deteriorate if they are left sleeved too long. Also avoid waterlogged plants, especially if the plant looks wilted. This could be a sign of root rot.

In the home, place your Easter lily near a window that receives bright, indirect natural daylight. Avoid direct sunlight. Easter lilies prefer somewhat cooler temperatures. Ideally, the daytime temperature should be 60 to 65 °F with slightly cooler night temperatures. Avoid placing plants near drafts, and avoid exposure to excess heat or dry air from appliances, fireplaces or heating ducts.

Keep the potting medium moist. Water the plant thoroughly when the soil surface feels dry, but avoid overwatering. If the pot is wrapped in decorative foil, be careful not to let the plant sit in trapped, standing water. Remove the plant from decorative pots or covers and water until it seeps out of the pot’s drain holes. Repeat this several times. Allow the plant to drain for a few minutes before putting it back into its decorative cover.

As the flowers open and mature, remove the yellow anthers before the pollen starts to shed. This gives longer flower life and prevents the pollen from staining the white flowers. When a mature flower starts to fade and wither, cut it off to keep the plant looking attractive.

After the last flower has withered and has been cut away, the Easter lily can be planted in the garden after the danger of frost has passed. Prepare a well-drained garden bed in a sunny location amended with organic matter such as compost. Good drainage is the key for success with lilies. To ensure adequate drainage, create a raised garden bed by moving soil to the top a few inches higher than the surrounding soil level. Also, adjust the soil pH to 6.5 to 7.0.

Plant the Easter lily bulbs 6 inches deep from the base of the bulb to the top of the mulched surface, assuming at least a 2-inch layer of mulch. Plant them 4 to 6 inches apart. The hole should be wide enough so the roots can be easily spread out. Work the soil in around the roots, and water them in immediately after planting.

Lilies like their “feet in the shade and their heads in the sun.” Mulch with a 2-inch layer of compost, pine straw or shredded leaves. Mulching helps conserve moisture in between waterings, suppresses weed growth, keeps the soil cool and provides nutrients as it decays.

As the leaves and stems of the original plants begin to turn brown and die back, cut them back just above a healthy leaf on the stem. Wait until the leaves and stems have turned brown before removing them. New growth will soon emerge. It is unlikely that a second flowering will occur later in the summer. Easter lilies, which were forced to flower under controlled greenhouse conditions in March, will flower naturally in June or July the following and subsequent years and will reach a height of 3 feet or more.

In the fall, when the lily stalks have matured and turned yellow, you can cut them back to soil level. When they are completely dry, the stalks can be pulled out easily.

During the winter months, maintain a generous layer of mulch. Carefully remove the mulch in the spring to allow new shoots to come up. Fertilize with a complete fast-release fertilizer such as 8-8-8 when the new shoots emerge and monthly until flowering. Conversely, a slow-release fertilizer can be applied just once during the growing season when new shoots emerge in the spring. Apply the fertilizer to the soil around each plant about 2 inches from the stem and water it in.

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Center Publication Number: 83